Full Version: Laser OEM on Oak finish plaque
From: Carl (CSEWELL) [#3]
23 Mar 2007
To: Becky (KIAIJANE) [#2] 23 Mar 2007
As with everything, there is a learning curve and there are certain peculiarities that you have to bow to, but, overall, it's pretty straight forward.
Staples has the OKIDATA 5500n for the same price (when you include the $200 mail-in rebate) as the 3400n: $399.98
From: ray (RMV0215) [#4]
23 Mar 2007
To: ALL
I am trying "The Magic Touch" papers with OEM. Purchased an additional Laser Printer Konica Minolta Magicolor 2530DL from Sam's for $250.00. WOW is this a great printer for the price, and the papers work great as well. I soon will be adding pictures to my web site.
Ray
From: Mike (MIKEN) [#5]
23 Mar 2007
To: ray (RMV0215) [#4] Unread
I use Magic Touch paper as well but my printer is an older panasonic. I have not been happy with transfers to hard surfaces as they are just too delicate. (it's great for plaques & t-shirts)
My suspicion is that it is the toner that is the secret to the more durable surface rather than the paper.
What has been your experience?
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#6]
23 Mar 2007
To: Mike (MIKEN) [#5] 23 Mar 2007
The critical thing is an oil free fuser. With an oil fuser, a coating of silicon oil gets on the surface of the toner making it grab to the substrate poorly.
The special paper sort of encapsulates the toner while heated so it does not mush out and distort.
From: Mike (MIKEN) [#7]
23 Mar 2007
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#6] 24 Mar 2007
Harvey:
Good explanation. Now I understand why I need a new printer.
Just to think, I paid $400 for a new fuser last year. :-$
Thanks,
EDITED: 23 Mar 2007 by MIKEN
From: Dave_Miller [#8]
23 Mar 2007
To: Carl (CSEWELL) [#1] 23 Mar 2007
That transfer looks great! Good work.
From: AL (SUBLIAL) [#9]
23 Mar 2007
To: Mike (MIKEN) [#5] 23 Mar 2007
Mike, That was an excellent observation as the toner is the key elament.
AL La Costa
From: Larry B (PALMETTO) [#10]
24 Mar 2007
To: Carl (CSEWELL) [#1] 24 Mar 2007
Carl, I ran across the image of this plaque on your website a couple of nights ago. We have just gotten our laser in and did the training yesterday, so I am a total newbie to some of this stuff. I was very impressed with your work and remarked on this very plaque. I showed it to my wife and she was dismayed and said..how did he do that? Well, I assumed it was a fill of some sort.
Am I to understand that this is actually printed from a laser printer using a special toner and paper? Please explain a little more please about this. Thanks
From: Carl (CSEWELL) [#11]
24 Mar 2007
To: Larry B (PALMETTO) [#10] 24 Mar 2007
Are you referring to the plaque in this thread or a plaque on my website? The one in this thread doesn't appear on my website.... at least I don't think it does...... nope, I checked. It doesn't.
If not, which one on my website are you referring to?
From: Larry B (PALMETTO) [#12]
24 Mar 2007
To: Carl (CSEWELL) [#11] 24 Mar 2007
Carl:
The one at the far left bottom in this link http://www.guntersvillelaser.com/SpecialtyPlaques-Large.jpg
I just recalled from memory, but the question remains the same. This must be related to sublimation, right? I'm not in that business, so I am vaguely familiar. (by the way, I'm a native of Alabama, that's pretty country up where you are). I like your website too, nice work!
From: PenMan [#13]
24 Mar 2007
To: Carl (CSEWELL) [#1] 24 Mar 2007
From: Carl (CSEWELL) [#14]
24 Mar 2007
To: Larry B (PALMETTO) [#12] 24 Mar 2007
The one on my website is laser engraved with the upper half being color filled. You laser engrave the text/graphic and then fill it with paint, usually acrylic paint. You can use a mask (cover the whole piece with a material) and then laser engrave through that. And you can flood-fill or even spray paint the laser area and then remove the mask.
The Stunt Engraver has an excellent tutorial on color filling here:
http://engravingetc.org/forum/index.php?webtag=EE&msg=2340.14.
Memorize that one.
Spend some time in the "Tips and Tricks" folder on this forum and refer to it often. You'll glean a tremendous amount of experience at an unbelievable price (for a limited time only!).
The plaque in this thread was done using CLTT (color laser toner transfer). A color laser printer is used to print to a specialty paper. The image (ie laser toner) on the paper is then transferred to the substrate (plaque, t-shirt, mouse pad, whatever) using a heat press. Yes, it is similar to dye-sublimation. There's a link to DSSI in upper right corner of this forum (See Links of Interest and click on the arrow to display the links).
As you can tell, there's more to this business than pressing the start button on your laser.
Yes, Alabama is beautiful, especially in and around the Lake Guntersville area. My business is in downtown Guntersville, which is actually a peninsula in the middle of Lake Guntersville.
Best of LUCK!
EDITED: 24 Mar 2007 by DGL
From: Carl (CSEWELL) [#15]
24 Mar 2007
To: PenMan [#13] 24 Mar 2007
Mick has treated me well in the customer service area. Definitely highly recommended.
From: PenMan [#16]
24 Mar 2007
To: Carl (CSEWELL) [#15] 24 Mar 2007
From: Carl (CSEWELL) [#17]
24 Mar 2007
To: PenMan [#16] 24 Mar 2007
I was the same way. As I stated in another post, I asked a lot from Mick and he delivered. I even offered to pay him for his materials, effort, and shipping but he refused.
From: Larry B (PALMETTO) [#18]
24 Mar 2007
To: Carl (CSEWELL) [#14] 24 Mar 2007
Carl:
Yes, their is a lot to learn. I am into CNC routed signs and have rotor engraver also, but this is not my main business. I sell and install millwork packages to GC's building apartments and condos. The signage we do is for those developments. The laser we purchased is a tie in to this.
I have looked at the sublimation materials in Johnson Plastics catalog for quite a while, but I didn't unsderstand the OEM term as related to this. Now I see. Thank you for the information. I didn't mean to appear ignorant.
From: Carl (CSEWELL) [#19]
24 Mar 2007
To: Larry B (PALMETTO) [#18] 25 Mar 2007
No not at all! I sure hope my reply didn't sound like I thought you were. It's hard to reply without knowing a lot of detail about the person you are replying to. We were all where you are, with respect to processes in this industry, some of us, me included, a very SHORT time ago.
From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#20]
25 Mar 2007
To: Carl (CSEWELL) [#1] 25 Mar 2007
Carl,
At what temp and time did you press that?
As I mentioned in another thread about OEM, I did not have good luck. What is the secret?
When I pressed my sample, a lot of the toner came off the wood, what stayed was mottled, and the finish on the wood actually bubbled in places ( I assume the temp was too high)......and it appeared as if what ever the coating is on the paper, came off and stayed on the wood.....
Thanks
Chuck
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#21]
25 Mar 2007
To: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#20] 25 Mar 2007
On raw wood that can happen, but on my few trials it does not happen on finished wood.
EDIT: At home I have my settings, or check the thing I posted in the 'Tips & Tricks' folder.
http://engravingetc.org/forum/index.php?webtag=EE&msg=2366.1
Be sure you know what temperature your press is really running.
EDITED: 25 Mar 2007 by DGL
From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#22]
25 Mar 2007
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#21] 25 Mar 2007
Harvey,
DEE hasn't even figured that out...and IF the day comes that I do, I will be afraid. VERY afraid..... ( insert laugh here)