Full Version: Beveler

From: Paul (MMENGRAVER) [#6]
 14 Sep 2005
To: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#2] 14 Sep 2005

I just found this web site and love it!! (my first post :D) I started my engraving biz about a 1.5 years ago and still learning very much. I saw the beveler at the ARA show in Las Vegas but couldn't afford it that one yet. I started this biz on a very low budget but it growing fast. In another thread you mention a supplier named "MAIN TROPHY SUPPLY" and they have a beveler in their catalog that is almost half the cost. Do you know if that one is just as good as the "Quality one" one?

From: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#7]
 14 Sep 2005
To: Paul (MMENGRAVER) [#6] 14 Sep 2005

Paul,

We are glad you found us. Like you, we are all looking to learn more. You will not find a better place to do that than right here.

I took a look at the Main Trophy website but I didn't see their beveler. I will have to take a look in their catalog tomorrow to see if I recognize the make.

Johnson Plastics and New Hermes also offer a beveler.

I have really enjoyed my Quality One beveler. I have a feeling it will be with me for a very long time.

From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#8]
 14 Sep 2005
To: Paul (MMENGRAVER) [#6] 14 Sep 2005

Paul,

Welcome to the forum. Happy you found us.

Like David T., I looked at the Main Trophy Supply web site and didn't see a beveler.

The least expensive bevelers I've seen (I believe) are from Scott. Light duty and not very versatile, but they do perform the task of basic beveling.

Next up (in the food chain) are small bevelers (Gravograph, Scripta) which can be adjusted for various thicknesses of material. Cutters can be changed from "angled" to "border cut" very quickly, through a top-loading spindle.

Further up the food chain are more robust bevelers with longer, wider work surfaces, larger diameter cutters and more powerful motors. Chip removal (vacuum) can be a feature of these models.

The Gravograph (New Hermes) B-6 beveler can also be used (with optional jigs) to radius corners.

Which beveler to buy, depends on your primary use.

If you'll be beveling large plastic signs, you'll struggle with the small table area of the entry level machines.

On the other hand, if you'll be beveling small namebadges and nameplates, the larger machines, unless you can afford them, will be overkill.

From: Paul (MMENGRAVER) [#9]
 14 Sep 2005
To: ALL

Thanks guys, You guys are all over this!!!! I looked in the Johnson Plastic Catalog and thats the same picture in the Main Trophy supply catalog. I currently use a rotary engraver to make my bevels for all my signs. It will be used on 99% of everything I do. I just bought a laser and need to bevel my laser work.

From: trophyman (MIKEBERGER) [#10]
 15 Sep 2005
To: Paul (MMENGRAVER) [#9] 16 Sep 2005

Why not use a beveling cutter in a router table? That's what I do when it's something larger than the routery engraver will handle.

From: Paul (MMENGRAVER) [#11]
 16 Sep 2005
To: trophyman (MIKEBERGER) [#10] 19 Sep 2005

I have a large order that was back engraved and my thought was to use the laser to engrave them. I don't feel like i can correctly place the material on both machines and get it centered up. my customer is requiring a bevel edge.
I think i misunderstood ya. I seem to scratch my material because the face is on the table.

EDITED: 16 Sep 2005 by MMENGRAVER

From: PenTrophy (PENINSULATROPHY) [#12]
 16 Sep 2005
To: Paul (MMENGRAVER) [#11] 17 Sep 2005

Why are you removing the protective plastic sheeting on the clear front?

EDITED: 16 Sep 2005 by PENINSULATROPHY

From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#13]
 16 Sep 2005
To: Paul (MMENGRAVER) [#11] 17 Sep 2005

A beveler is much more accurate because the back is against the table and the piece is pinched between the table and the cutting bit.

I have two bevelers, for two different thickness materials. It is a great convenience and I could not do without at least one. All of my sign and badge material is prepared in advance and beveled.

From: logojohn [#14]
 16 Sep 2005
To: Paul (MMENGRAVER) [#11] 17 Sep 2005

It is easy to cut out the blanks on the rotary and
then use the laser for the lettering. I use that method whenever I can. We have 3 rotarys and only 1 laser so time is tight on the laser. I also don't like the sticky, non beveled edges and possible heat-smoke damage from laser cutting.

Some tips.
Place a sacrifice sheet under the material to avoid
cutting into the rotary table. Set the depth to the thickness of the material.
Leave the protective mask on when doing the profile cut to avoid nose cone scratches. I use the nose cone that has snap on changeable tips. I use old damaged ones for cutting with the mask and switch to virgin ones for engraving non laser material.
Laser material especially does not cut as easy as non laser material. If you use the special profile cutters, the chips from laser material get stuck in the groove and even a good vacuum chip removable system does not remove them. This will scratch any non-masked material. You may need extra z axis pressure to stop the nosecone from riding up over the chips and not cutting through. If machine time is not critical do 1 pass 3/4 of the way through and another one the rest of the way. You can also just apply thumb pressure down to keep it in contact.

If you don't mind the look of a wider bevel, just use a
.015 or .020 regular angle flx cutter. The wider groove allows the chips to go up the vaccuum. There is much less chips left behind.

Add about .03 to each dimension when profiling. (adjust by trial and error)*
That will yield a cut blank of the exact size you want.

Take the blanks and place on the grid in the laser. Since the grid was made with the laser the grid is the exact place it will laser the pieces. It is easy to align multiple small badges. *If you tweak it you can just butt the pieces together for an exact fit on the grid.
It also helps on pre made peices that are not exact. Just center on the grid at the dimemsions in your layout. You can also align items at the base that don't have a flat edge at the top.

Below are some previous messages about it.
________
Using a profile cutter on a rotary machine for cutting blanks
http://www.engravingetc.org/forum/index.php?webtag=EE&msg=1557.14


placing pre cut pieces in the laser using a grid:
http://www.engravingetc.org/forum/index.php?webtag=EE&msg=1557.18

From: trophyman (MIKEBERGER) [#15]
 19 Sep 2005
To: Paul (MMENGRAVER) [#11] 19 Sep 2005

We use the router table for large signs. Name badges and the smaller items are cut out and beveled on the rotary engraver using a combination cutter that both cuts out the item and bevels the edge in a single operation.

From: Paul (MMENGRAVER) [#16]
 19 Sep 2005
To: trophyman (MIKEBERGER) [#15] 19 Sep 2005

I like that idea. I use my rotary now to bevel and engrave. I just got a laser and was afraid of aligning the piece up after rotary cutting the piece out.

From: Shaddy [#17]
 19 Sep 2005
To: Paul (MMENGRAVER) [#16] 19 Sep 2005

Not sure I'm fully understanding... but if you want to cut first, then use the laser to engrave, you could make a template. Use some stock (birch, MDF, acrylic) and use the laser to cut out a shape that's the same as the one you are wanting to engrave. Then you take out that cut piece, and insert the thing you want engraved into the hole. Poof, you just made a template and you know right where the borders are for your laser, and everything is aligned. Just save the file that your laser used, and mark the template so you always know which is the upper left and top, and you can use it with pretty good repeatability.

Shaddy

From: Paul (MMENGRAVER) [#18]
 19 Sep 2005
To: Shaddy [#17] 19 Sep 2005

I guess i'm making this more difficult then what it really is. I need to bevel around 25-2000 pcs. The smallest and most being about .375" x 2" long. Before i got my laser i was doing my engraving on the little rotary machine. Time has become a BIG issue. I just spent a lot of money getting this laser and spending another $900 was cutting into my wallet and was hoping to find a happy medium on saving money and doing these jobs faster.

From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#19]
 20 Sep 2005
To: Paul (MMENGRAVER) [#18] 20 Sep 2005

As far as speed, nothing like a beveler.

As far as beveling an edge 1/2" or smaller, nothing like an engraver. You have to get the technique down in order to bevel a short edge without nicking the corner due to the leading corner wanting to fall into the tiny area where the bit is. (You may want to start by using a small square of about 1x1 to use as a square to push with.)

From: PenTrophy (PENINSULATROPHY) [#20]
 20 Sep 2005
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#19] 20 Sep 2005

The trick to beveling multi items smaller than 1/2" is vector score the items without cutting through and keeping the smaller edges all together as one piece and running say 10 or so through the beveler on both sides then snapping them apart and beveling the longer sides.

From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#21]
 20 Sep 2005
To: ALL

The trick to beveling small widths, i.e. 3/8" is not to bevel such small widths. Sounds logical enough, but that doesn't make sense -- or does it?

Here's what you do:

Let's say you need a number of 3/8" x 2" plastic plates. Cut a 2" x 12" length from a piece of sheet stock.

Bevel the two 12" long sides.

Guess what? By beveling the 12" widths, before you cut the individual plates, you've already beveled the small widths.

That means, after cutting the individual plates, all that's left to do, is bevel the 2" widths.

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