Wine Glass Question - Engraving Etc. Forum

<body> <h1>Full Version: <a href="https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&msg=3844.22">Wine Glass Question</a></h1><a name="a3844_22"></a><p><b>From: Myyk</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=3844.22">#22</a>]<br /> 25 Jun 2006<br /><b>To: gingem</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=3844.21">#21</a>] 25 Jun 2006</p> <p>Way too much work for me!<br /> All glasses are not the same, so you would have to have a number of different templates. Same goes for inscriptions with different numbers of lines of text.<br /> I guess you could do it that quickly if you have dedicated workshop areas for exposing, washing out, etc., but I don't, so can't come near to your time of 15 minutes.<br /> Enjoyed your great informative post though. Thanks!!</p><hr /><a name="a3844_23"></a><p><b>From: logojohn</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=3844.23">#23</a>]<br /> 25 Jun 2006<br /><b>To: Myyk</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=3844.22">#22</a>] 25 Jun 2006</p> The sandblasting looks better but most of our customers are in a hurry and can't wait more than a day or 2.<br /> <br /> We give the customers a choice. Many times their short deadlines are critical and their only option is laser. The laser can produce a good quality look that most people are happy with.<br /> <br /> We have a good outside vendor if they can wait longer.<br /> We don't have the time, expertise or equipment to sandblast in house.<br /> <br /> We have a lot of very detailed logos including small text that would be difficult with sand blasting.<br /> <br /> <br /> . <hr /><a name="a3844_24"></a><p><b>From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=3844.24">#24</a>]<br /> 25 Jun 2006<br /><b>To: gingem</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=3844.21">#21</a>] 25 Jun 2006</p> Maybe I have found the magic settings, on glass, not crystal), I can get a decent depth and no edge fractures. It took me a while to figure that out, everything else left those fractures and no depth. <hr /><a name="a3844_25"></a><p><b>From: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=3844.25">#25</a>]<br /> 25 Jun 2006<br /><b>To: gingem</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=3844.21">#21</a>] 25 Jun 2006</p> <p>Hi Bill,</p> <p>Thank you for sharing. I use this technique on one-of-a-kind larger pieces as well, primarilly because I want it to look it's best and am able to charge for the extra time it takes.</p> <hr /><a name="a3844_26"></a><p><b>From: Zonas</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=3844.26">#26</a>]<br /> 27 Jun 2006<br /><b>To: gingem</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=3844.21">#21</a>] 27 Jun 2006</p> <p>Our steps are very similar, only I don't turn the item upside down. I have made a bracket (similar to an upside down T) that I can slide my dry erase marker up and down for marking. With a ruler this lets me jot down the height I drew my lines at so when I apply the resist its at the same exact location. I agree with you on the look. I'm looking into using a laser for 'cutting' my resist on some large flat orders I do, but I will still sandblast them. For flutes, bottles, etc. I have a old cylindical engraver with a diamond cutter - to me that this is the quickest way to do flutes/wine glasses. I can have a set done in about the same amount of time it takes the computer to boot up. Cutting with the diamond gives such a nice cut that I'm able to offer many color fill choices.</p> <p>Zona</p><hr /><p align="center">Show messages:  <a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=3844.1">1</a>  <a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=3844.2">2-21</a>  22-26</p> <h4><a href="lthread_list.php?webtag=EE">Back to thread list</a> | <a href="llogout.php?webtag=EE">Login</a></h4> <h6>© 2025 <a href="http://www.beehiveforum.net/" target="_blank">Project Beehive Forum</a></h6> </body>