From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#24]
25 Jun 2006
To: gingem [#21] 25 Jun 2006
Maybe I have found the magic settings, on glass, not crystal), I can get a decent depth and no edge fractures. It took me a while to figure that out, everything else left those fractures and no depth.
From: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#25]
25 Jun 2006
To: gingem [#21] 25 Jun 2006
Hi Bill,
Thank you for sharing. I use this technique on one-of-a-kind larger pieces as well, primarilly because I want it to look it's best and am able to charge for the extra time it takes.
From: Zonas [#26]
27 Jun 2006
To: gingem [#21] 27 Jun 2006
Our steps are very similar, only I don't turn the item upside down. I have made a bracket (similar to an upside down T) that I can slide my dry erase marker up and down for marking. With a ruler this lets me jot down the height I drew my lines at so when I apply the resist its at the same exact location. I agree with you on the look. I'm looking into using a laser for 'cutting' my resist on some large flat orders I do, but I will still sandblast them. For flutes, bottles, etc. I have a old cylindical engraver with a diamond cutter - to me that this is the quickest way to do flutes/wine glasses. I can have a set done in about the same amount of time it takes the computer to boot up. Cutting with the diamond gives such a nice cut that I'm able to offer many color fill choices.
Zona
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