Xenetech depth setting - Engraving Etc. Forum

<body> <h1>Full Version: <a href="https://www.engravingetc.org:443/archive/index.php?webtag=EE&msg=4239.4">Xenetech depth setting</a></h1><a name="a4239_4"></a><p><b>From: Stunt Engraver (DGL)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=4239.4">#4</a>]<br /> 3 Jul 2006<br /><b>To: Ian (IANHR)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=4239.1">#1</a>] 3 Jul 2006</p> <p>Ian,</p> <p>I've done a lot of that type of work.</p> <p>As LJ says, if the material (and/or the table) isn't completely flat, all the King's horses won't give you a consistent depth of cut.</p> <p>To make life easier, by all means, use a sacrificial piece of thin engraving stock, over the surface of your leaded brass.</p> <p>Using a nose depth regulator, you'll get a consistent depth.</p> <p>Alternatively, I've used a layer or two of "light tack" masking tape, in place of a sacrificial sheet of engraving stock, with good results.</p> <p>If you use tape, you'll want to make sure the downward pressure of the spindle is on the light side, but heavy enough not to float.</p><p class="edit_text">EDITED: 3 Jul 2006 by DGL</p> <hr /><a name="a4239_5"></a><p><b>From: Ian (IANHR)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=4239.5">#5</a>]<br /> 3 Jul 2006<br /><b>To: Stunt Engraver (DGL)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=4239.4">#4</a>] 3 Jul 2006</p> <p>Thanks for the replies. Actually I'm routing the stock, .075 lettering and lines. I tried the masking tape, but it just tore up and I couldn't see the damage the chips were doing until too late. When I tried taking off the plastic, it seemed like the heat from the chips melted the lacquer and make little patterns when I oxidized it.<br /> I'm going to try raising the nose so it doesn't contact the metal but the vacuum will still work and lighten the pressure again. Apparently I can use a negative factor on the Z float. I've made all kinds of clamps and jigs to hold the metal as flat as I can, and slight variations were not too noticeable when I did this job of my old Meistergram, so I think I should be able to get better depth control with thes more sophisticated machine. Anyway, I'll plug along and report my progress. <br /> Ian</p><hr /><a name="a4239_6"></a><p><b>From: Ian (IANHR)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=4239.6">#6</a>]<br /> 3 Jul 2006<br /><b>To: Ian (IANHR)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=4239.5">#5</a>] 3 Jul 2006</p> <p>Actually, rereading all your posts, I think the sacrificial piece and the nosecone might be the way to go. I did read the manual cutter setting in the index, but your explanation made it clearer. Thanks again.<br /> Ian</p><hr /><a name="a4239_7"></a><p><b>From: Stunt Engraver (DGL)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=4239.7">#7</a>]<br /> 3 Jul 2006<br /><b>To: Ian (IANHR)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=4239.5">#5</a>] 3 Jul 2006</p> Ian,<br /> <br /> I forgot to mention a crucial point.<br /> <br /> When I route metal with a nose cone, while using light-tack tape, I use a steady stream of shop air, to keep metal chips from gathering beneath the nose cone.<br /> <br /> A vacuum-nose works fairly well, if you can keep the nose close to the surface of the metal, but direct contact creates more suction.<br /> <br /> Of course, you can't have direct contact. <span class="e_smile" title=":-)"><span class="e__">:-)</span> </span> <hr /><a name="a4239_8"></a><p><b>From: Ian (IANHR)</b> [<a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=4239.8">#8</a>]<br /> 5 Jul 2006<br /><b>To: ALL</b></p> <p>Thanks to all for your input - here's the what worked out for me. Taking the idea of a sacrificial piece of plastic I went to the local supplier and found sheets of .020 styrene, which looked almost perfect, especially at about $12 per 4 x 8 foot sheet. I covered the face of the brass, with the protective plastic still on, with transfer tape, then sprayed the back of the tape with 3M Super 77 spray adhesive and stuck the styrene to that. While engraving, the centres all stayed in the letters and when I pulled off the styrene the masking tape came with it and the protective plastic stayed on the brass. The nose rode on the styrene and the chip extractor worked so depth problems and warped material were not an issue. Great ideas, thanks again!<br /> Ian</p><hr /><p align="center">Show messages: <a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=4239.1">All</a>  <a href="lmessages.php?webtag=EE&msg=4239.1">1-3</a>  4-8</p> <h4><a href="lthread_list.php?webtag=EE">Back to thread list</a> | <a href="llogout.php?webtag=EE">Login</a></h4> <h6>© 2025 <a href="http://www.beehiveforum.net/" target="_blank">Project Beehive Forum</a></h6> </body>