Full Version: Color Laser for the future

From: John (JOHNRMONTG) [#22]
 26 Mar 2005
To: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#21] 26 Mar 2005

Hi David... thanks for the response... sounds like a great job! What is the implication of the 'magnetic laser sublimation'? I haven't heard that term utilized. The first thing that comes to my mind is sublimating magnetic sublimatable materials ... that can't be correct?

From: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#23]
 26 Mar 2005
To: John (JOHNRMONTG) [#22] 27 Mar 2005

John,

There are two different types of laser sublimation. Below are a few links to some excellent DSSI discussions on those types, magnetic and polymer. These posts will give you great details on the differences between the two processes.

http://www.dyesub.org/forum/?msg=753.38

http://www.dyesub.org/forum/?msg=895.1

I would also suggest visiting www.colourmagic.info. This is one of Alpha's websites, full of interesting ideas.

EDITED: 26 Mar 2005 by DATAKES


From: Ken D. (KDEVORY) [#24]
 26 Mar 2005
To: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#21] 26 Mar 2005

David,

I never realized there were dye sub inks that did not require a polyester coating. Is it safe to assume that these inks only work with metal? (Is it easier to list the metals they work with, or the metals that won't work?) Do you have another set of inks for doing the usual coated items? (1 printer, 3 inks: normal, metal, coated?)

edited to add: you posted the above post as I was writting this, I'll check out the links.

EDITED: 26 Mar 2005 by KDEVORY


From: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#25]
 26 Mar 2005
To: Ken D. (KDEVORY) [#24] 27 Mar 2005

Ken,

I did not have the time to wrestle with the challenges of inkjet dye sublimation, that is what lead me to laser toner sublimation.

You will get some great information when you read the information under the links listed in my previous post.

You don't need to use the metal that is specially coated to receive sublimation inks, but you still have to use metal with its normal coating. Bare metal will not receive and hold the sublimation toner when pressed and handled.

EDITED: 26 Mar 2005 by DATAKES


From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#26]
 26 Mar 2005
To: John (JOHNRMONTG) [#16] 27 Mar 2005

John,

I haven't seen the Aluma Jet process on display since their appearance at the ARA Show in Las Vegas a few years ago. I don't think the process ever got traction.

The sample I brought home was very crisp. I left it in my show bag for a few weeks and when I took it out the image was blurred. Probably would have been OK with an overcoat, but that's another production step. Not to mention, if you're not a very good spray-painter, the finished product wouldn't look very professionally done.

I perform both ink jet and laser sublimation. Each has its pros and cons.

My recommendation to anyone entering the sublimation industry, is to start with monochrome (fancy word for single color:-) sublimation.

No color correction issues, which can be a completely separate can of worms.

Once you develop a knack with your graphics programs, you'll be better prepared to take the step into full color sublimation.

Even if you do step up to full color sublimation; guess what?

Your monochrome printer will remain very, very busy :-)

David "The Stunt Engraver" Lavaneri
DGL Engraving
Port Hueneme, CA


From: John (JOHNRMONTG) [#27]
 27 Mar 2005
To: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#23] 27 Mar 2005

Dave ... thanks so much for taking the time to reference the DSSI Forum topics, then provide the URL's to cover my questions. They were excellent in explaining the differences in the two types of sublimation toners ~ therefore applicability in materials!

Show messages:  1  2-21  22-27

Back to thread list | Login

© 2025 Project Beehive Forum