Full Version: Stick on Etching
From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#5]
28 Mar 2005
To: Ken D. (KDEVORY) [#4] 29 Mar 2005
Hi Ken,
I will try and answer your questions the best I can:
What variables are you finding effect the "crispness". Lacking your vast experience, I'm guessing:
* A mask that holds up vs wearing at the edges.
The problem is that the Rapid mask will not contour to the compound curves. ( for the price I am charging, I'm not inclined to MAKE it do so ) and I have not had much better luck with the laser tape
* blasting perpendicular to the item vs an angle.
I had not thought of the blast angle. I'll try that and see if it helps.
* Depth vs light surface frosting.
I need to acheive a certain depth because right now, I am "jerry rigging" a process that allows me to use my laser to etch, but that leave lines i must remove.
* abrasive type
I am using 180 grit silicon carbide
* grit used (fine vs coarse)
see above
* scale of equipment. (nozzle for detail vs large quantity)
I am using the standard 1/8 inch nozzle that came with my crystal blast.
"Am I wrong about any of the above making a difference? What else am I missing?" I don't know.
Now, back at you with the quesiton, What am "I" missing?
Thanks
From: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#6]
28 Mar 2005
To: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#5] 28 Mar 2005
Chuck,
Were you given a sample of the original etched glass they received in the past? If it was acid or cream etched, it is likely that the etch had very little depth to it.
You may want to try calling Libby directly to see if they even offer an acid or cream etch.
Would you please e-mail a copy of the image (Corel 10) for me to do a test? I still think a photo resist is the best route to go to get the sharpest image. I'll punish myself by trying it on a compound angled wine glass that I stock, but always dread doing.
From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#7]
28 Mar 2005
To: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#6] 28 Mar 2005
David,
I was given a sample. It is etched very lightly.
I WILL contact Libby. I'll also email you a copy of the image, but I really don't want you putting your time and energy into it, especially with the compound curve.
AAAARRRRRGGGHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!
That thud you hear, is my head bouncing off the wall(s).
From: Ken D. (KDEVORY) [#8]
29 Mar 2005
To: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#5] 29 Mar 2005
I'm not sure what your using to mask with the laser, and I don't have any recommendations for a material. But to minimize the lines you probably want something with a low burn temperature to minimize laser power. (Trying to kiss cut the mask)
Have you peeled off the mask after lasering? It's possible the laser is causing the problem. -little fractures causing a poor line along (under)the mask edge. I'm not sure if you're better off raster engraving the mask or vector cutting the outline and weeding.
It'll be interesting to hear about David Takes's results. Did you ever pursue the "paint as mask" idea?
(Have you scratch tested the IPI plastic keytags you were working on? Will they hold up to a pocket of keys? I'd recommend testing samples in several peoples pockets.)
From: Ken D. (KDEVORY) [#9]
30 Mar 2005
To: ALL
Can an etching cream be applied to glass with compound curves using pad printing techniques?
 (edited for spelling)
EDITED: 30 Mar 2005 by KDEVORY