Full Version: paint filling on engraved stainless
From: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#1]
31 Jan 2006
To: ALL
I am new to metal drag engraving. I am engraving some tags in stainless steel and I need the text to stand out more.
Can I fill text on stainless steel with paint or ? Any other way to do this? What is best to use to fill on ss?
Thanks
Steve
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#2]
31 Jan 2006
To: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#1] 31 Jan 2006
Diamond-drag on stainless won't generate enough depth for color-filling.
You would have to deep-engrave or route the image.
There are different alloys of stainless. Some are surpringly soft. Others are almost impenetrable.
I'll have to route/color-fill some stainless plates tomorrow. I bought some "tang" plates from a marine supply store, to be used as hull ID plates.
I have no idea what to expect, in regard to the hardness of the stainless.
From: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#3]
31 Jan 2006
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#2] 31 Jan 2006
These are from inland products and when I asked them they said to diamond drag them. Of course I did not ask about color filling.
So lets say I get the tags engraved, now I have a paint stick, a uni ball paint stick and the acrylic fil paint.
How do I apply and wipe of the excess to have the fill stay in the lines?
I may need to go deeper with the engraving because when I wipe off all of it comes off.
steve
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#4]
31 Jan 2006
To: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#3] 31 Jan 2006
Steve,
That's the problem with stainless. You'll be able to get very little depth with a diamond graver, no matter how much downward force you apply.
If you were dealing with aluminum, you may be able to coerce some of the color-fill to remain in the grooves, but even then, attempts to remove the excess, will usually result in most of the fill coming out of the grooves.
I don't know if stainless oxidizes well (or at all) but you may be able to spray a coat of clear lacquer on the piece, engrave through the lacquer and oxidize the letters.
The prospect of success, with that method, would rely on how well the lacquer adheres to the stainless and how susceptable the stainless is to oxidizing.
From: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#5]
31 Jan 2006
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#4] 31 Jan 2006
I will see how well it oxidizes.
thank you
Steve
From: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#6]
31 Jan 2006
To: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#5] 31 Jan 2006
It does not oxidize at all.
Oh well!
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#7]
31 Jan 2006
To: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#6] 31 Jan 2006
Hmmm...kind of expected that, but didn't know for sure.
Might be time to buddy-up to a laser engraver who uses Cermark.
From: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#8]
31 Jan 2006
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#7] 1 Feb 2006
I already sent this customer somewhere else.
Oh well, learned something new today!
To route, you have to have a collet type spindle, correct?
thanks for your help.
From: Jim (PUZZLEHEAD) [#9]
1 Feb 2006
To: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#8] 1 Feb 2006
A bottom collet spindle helps, but I don't usually bother installing my collet spindle unless it is a large stainless job. Most engraving machines can handle softer stainless reasonably well. Just use multiple passes getting a little deeper each time. I usually only go about .003 - .004" deep each pass and try to get the engraving about .012" deep for easy color filling. How long your cutter will stay sharp enough to do an acceptable job depends on how hard the steel is and also how lucky you are. Antares makes a product called a SpiralFlute Cutter that they claim holds up fairly well to stainless engraving. Make sure you use cutting fluid when you are engraving steel.
Jim
From: Zonas [#10]
1 Feb 2006
To: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#8] 1 Feb 2006
Jim's description of how to engrave was good. Only additional info is when you use cutting fluid - you must wash it all off to get your paint fill to stick. I have found Dawn dish soap to work. As soon as I'm done engraving SS I put full strength Dawn on plate - use old toothbrush to get all the areas and then drop plate in sink of hot water. Make sure the plate is completely dry before starting to color fill. Oh and I use a cutter for my SS made by Bruce Diamond called EH-8. Must specify if you want SS or Alum/Brass.
Zona
Zona's Engraved Creations
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#11]
1 Feb 2006
To: Zonas [#10] 1 Feb 2006
Is your special cutter a "Spiral Flute"?
I've been using an aerosol stainless steel cleaner as a coolant. Does a good job of prolonging cutter life and isn't as messy as cutting oil.
Clean the plate with a rag and it's ready to color-fill.
From: engravernick (NICK) [#12]
1 Feb 2006
To: ALL
Gee, you guys, I remember how many tries it took ME to figure all that out that you guys just laid out there! I gotta love ya, it's amazing how many guys come to folks aid with this stuff! I couldn't mention names, but there's lots of great people in here.
Nick
From: clay (CLAY_J1955) [#13]
1 Feb 2006
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#11] 1 Feb 2006
Hi David
take your dishwashing liquid, cut it 50/50 with water and use it as a lubricant. I do it all the time. Rub your fingers across the plate after your finished to check for burrs. if its free of burrs just go wash it off
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#14]
1 Feb 2006
To: clay (CLAY_J1955) [#13] Unread
Thanks,