Full Version: paint filling on engraved stainless
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#4]
31 Jan 2006
To: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#3] 31 Jan 2006
Steve,
That's the problem with stainless. You'll be able to get very little depth with a diamond graver, no matter how much downward force you apply.
If you were dealing with aluminum, you may be able to coerce some of the color-fill to remain in the grooves, but even then, attempts to remove the excess, will usually result in most of the fill coming out of the grooves.
I don't know if stainless oxidizes well (or at all) but you may be able to spray a coat of clear lacquer on the piece, engrave through the lacquer and oxidize the letters.
The prospect of success, with that method, would rely on how well the lacquer adheres to the stainless and how susceptable the stainless is to oxidizing.
From: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#5]
31 Jan 2006
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#4] 31 Jan 2006
I will see how well it oxidizes.
thank you
Steve
From: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#6]
31 Jan 2006
To: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#5] 31 Jan 2006
It does not oxidize at all.
Oh well!
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#7]
31 Jan 2006
To: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#6] 31 Jan 2006
Hmmm...kind of expected that, but didn't know for sure.
Might be time to buddy-up to a laser engraver who uses Cermark.
From: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#8]
31 Jan 2006
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#7] 1 Feb 2006
I already sent this customer somewhere else.
Oh well, learned something new today!
To route, you have to have a collet type spindle, correct?
thanks for your help.
From: Jim (PUZZLEHEAD) [#9]
1 Feb 2006
To: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#8] 1 Feb 2006
A bottom collet spindle helps, but I don't usually bother installing my collet spindle unless it is a large stainless job. Most engraving machines can handle softer stainless reasonably well. Just use multiple passes getting a little deeper each time. I usually only go about .003 - .004" deep each pass and try to get the engraving about .012" deep for easy color filling. How long your cutter will stay sharp enough to do an acceptable job depends on how hard the steel is and also how lucky you are. Antares makes a product called a SpiralFlute Cutter that they claim holds up fairly well to stainless engraving. Make sure you use cutting fluid when you are engraving steel.
Jim
From: Zonas [#10]
1 Feb 2006
To: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#8] 1 Feb 2006
Jim's description of how to engrave was good. Only additional info is when you use cutting fluid - you must wash it all off to get your paint fill to stick. I have found Dawn dish soap to work. As soon as I'm done engraving SS I put full strength Dawn on plate - use old toothbrush to get all the areas and then drop plate in sink of hot water. Make sure the plate is completely dry before starting to color fill. Oh and I use a cutter for my SS made by Bruce Diamond called EH-8. Must specify if you want SS or Alum/Brass.
Zona
Zona's Engraved Creations
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#11]
1 Feb 2006
To: Zonas [#10] 1 Feb 2006
Is your special cutter a "Spiral Flute"?
I've been using an aerosol stainless steel cleaner as a coolant. Does a good job of prolonging cutter life and isn't as messy as cutting oil.
Clean the plate with a rag and it's ready to color-fill.
From: engravernick (NICK) [#12]
1 Feb 2006
To: ALL
Gee, you guys, I remember how many tries it took ME to figure all that out that you guys just laid out there! I gotta love ya, it's amazing how many guys come to folks aid with this stuff! I couldn't mention names, but there's lots of great people in here.
Nick
From: clay (CLAY_J1955) [#13]
1 Feb 2006
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#11] 1 Feb 2006
Hi David
take your dishwashing liquid, cut it 50/50 with water and use it as a lubricant. I do it all the time. Rub your fingers across the plate after your finished to check for burrs. if its free of burrs just go wash it off
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#14]
1 Feb 2006
To: clay (CLAY_J1955) [#13] Unread
Thanks,