Full Version: Shear, corner rounder
From: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#2]
11 Mar 2006
To: Button (LASERCHICK) [#1] 11 Mar 2006
Tracy,
I can only give you my opinion on the Accu-Cutter products because it my only experience. I have the corner rounder, metal shear and plastic shear. They have all served me well under five years of some pretty heavy use.
If funds and timing are an issue, the other options will work very well. Most shears and corner rounders are built for the long haul.
From: logojohn [#3]
11 Mar 2006
To: Button (LASERCHICK) [#1] 11 Mar 2006
The Accu Cutter looks like it is a lot heavier duty. It says the 13 inch one weighs 85 pounds. That seems like a disadvantage to me for normal .020 brass since our 9385's get moved around a lot to where it is most convenient. Not sure of the weight but it is more like 10 pounds.
The size listed for the Accu Cutter is 26x20 . That seems big for only a 13 " cut. The 9385 is not much bigger than the size it will cut, maybe 17 x 12.
The 9385 is 12" but with the ruler removed you could cut about 12 1\2 inches.
The specs on the Accu cutter still says only .025 brass which is what the 9385 will cut. Most brass and aluminum is .016 or .020.
Unless you are going to cut 24-7 I think the 9385 would be more than adequate. We had 2 similar ones and one finally got metal fatique and broke apart but that was after about 50 years of heavy use. No I haven't been here that long but the company and shear have been. We still have the other old one but it doesn't get used much with the 2 new ones.
I am considering getting the 19" one sometime more for the extra length that comes in handy at times and not just because it is heavier duty. We currently have a 12" conventional shear but it has a 20x14 table which is nice for having a resting area when cutter large plates. It was made by awardsmith who is out of business and it is getting close to needing replacement.
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We have both types of notchers. The 3 in 1 allows more adjustments and gets used the most by far so it would be my first choice. Its main drawback is how far from the edge of the plate you can punch a hole. We wore one out several years ago and replaced it. Actually it was just the main adjustment plate that got bent and separated over time. We got the other one with the dies mainly since it had a die for corner 1/2 inch radius for large plates and a larger radius notch for matching customer owned plates. Just added the scallop die but haven't used it much yet. It isn't much better if you want a hole further from the edge.
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EDITED: 11 Mar 2006 by LOGOJOHN
From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#4]
11 Mar 2006
To: Button (LASERCHICK) [#1] 12 Mar 2006
Tracy,
I looked at both the Main Trophy and accu cutter.
While I liked the main trophy supply cutter, the accu cutter shear was only about $25.oo more and seemed more substantial. Also the the accu cutter corner press was more substantial and versatile.
Personally I found the accu cutter equipment to be more of a value...and would last for a long time.
I bought the metal shear, and the corner rounder with 4 dies, for less than $700. I think you could probably still get the show special if you called and talked to Heather.
Good luck
From: Mike (SPACE_ENGRAVERS) [#5]
12 Mar 2006
To: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#4] 12 Mar 2006
Chuck,
I'm new to the business and was unable to make the show...Could you tell me what the special was and who to contact about it? I've been looking for a shear and corner machine...
Thanks,
Mike
From: geebeau [#6]
12 Mar 2006
To: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#4] 12 Mar 2006
How does the corner rounder work with plastics, especially if I'm bevelling the edges?
Thankx,
Steve
Custom ID
From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#7]
12 Mar 2006
To: Mike (SPACE_ENGRAVERS) [#5] 12 Mar 2006
Mike,
Contact Accu Cutter at 1-800-345-0062. Ask for Heather. Ask her if you can still get the ARA show specials on the metal shear and The Cornermate Series of cutters. I believe the shear was $269.00 and the machine for the Corner mate was $79.00 with each cutting unit at $69.00.
Let us know how it works out.
From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#8]
12 Mar 2006
To: geebeau [#6] 12 Mar 2006
Steve,
Perhaps someone will weigh in here about cutting plastics. I have not done it myself, however they did demontrate it at the show.
I was told that the only issue was compression of the edge of the plastic. My untrained eye could not see it.
As for beveling "rounded" corners, I am told you cannot, but I'm gong to try anyhow on my spiffy new beveler. I'll let you know how it works
From: logojohn [#9]
12 Mar 2006
To: geebeau [#6] 12 Mar 2006
That is only viable for a few badges at a time. You would also have to have
a separate shear with plastic cutting blades or a safety saw.
With that expense you are still limited only to straight edges.
The best way to cut plastic badges and bevel in one pass is with a "profile cutter on the rotary machine. I cut most blanks on the rotary and then laser them but you could also rotary the wording and then cut them out.
Here is a message that explains the process.
http://www.engravingetc.org/forum/index.php?webtag=EE&msg=1256.14
Other good ideas in that thread.
.
From: precisionlaser [#10]
13 Mar 2006
To: Button (LASERCHICK) [#1] 13 Mar 2006
We recently bought the "Main Trophy" shear and 3 in 1 corner punch. We got the 9385 shear. We have used the shear more than the punch. The only thing I can say is that it seems to do its job reasonably well. We had a problem with the metal being slightly bent at the corner where the shear finishes the cut (brass plated steel), but if you are careful and make sure to hold the sheet against the ruler, you can get a pretty good cut. When cutting brass plated steel, if you are cutting a larger piece, this can be difficult because of the leverage exerted during the cut. It was much easier to get a flat corner with aluminum since it is so soft compared to steel.
Complaints are that the ruler is crude at best and extends beyond the edge of the cutting table. I would much rather have had a larger table and a ruler that was calibrated in sixteenths. On the punch, while we haven't used it much yet, my initial impression is that the Accucutter model might have been a better decision. One specific complaint from my production manager, who has run a trophy shop for five years before coming to work for me, is that the hole punch punches a hole that looks too large to him. He's kind of a perfectionist (one of the reasons I hired him) and thinks that the diameter of the hole is almost as large as the head of the nails used to pin plates down. We'll see. If I was to do this all over again, I'd probably take a closer look at the Accu Cutter line.
Mark
From: Button (LASERCHICK) [#11]
13 Mar 2006
To: ALL
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#12]
13 Mar 2006
To: Button (LASERCHICK) [#11] 13 Mar 2006
The cutter has been a fine tool for me for I guess 15 years. Used correctly and kept in alignment, I have never yet needed it sharpened. I go through about 30 12x24 sheets of brass/aluminum every few months.
You just need to keep the screws on the vertical slide bar in the back set to zero clearance and keep it greased. After the first few adjustments, you can go a long time between adjustments, the wear-in period. Occasionally I will cut a sheet of paper with it. If the cut is not absolutely perfect without any hairs left, time to readjust. The more perfect the adjustment, the less wear and no discernible sharp edge left on the brass. I do not use plated steel, I always worry about moisture causing the edge to rust over the years.
A good adjustment also reduces the pull of the shear when cutting. It will pull a faint bit due to the fact that it is a paper cutter style not a guillotine style, which pulls less. Keep the table clean and for goodness sakes do not wax it, made that mistake ONCE. Press down on the piece to get more friction to the table it works better. When you finally wear the paint off the high spots it grabs even better. I have quite a few bald spots on my shear, as well as my head.
From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#13]
14 Mar 2006
To: Button (LASERCHICK) [#11] 14 Mar 2006
You said
I can assure you that you did.