Full Version: Shear, corner rounder
From: logojohn [#9]
12 Mar 2006
To: geebeau [#6] 12 Mar 2006
That is only viable for a few badges at a time. You would also have to have
a separate shear with plastic cutting blades or a safety saw.
With that expense you are still limited only to straight edges.
The best way to cut plastic badges and bevel in one pass is with a "profile cutter on the rotary machine. I cut most blanks on the rotary and then laser them but you could also rotary the wording and then cut them out.
Here is a message that explains the process.
http://www.engravingetc.org/forum/index.php?webtag=EE&msg=1256.14
Other good ideas in that thread.
.
From: precisionlaser [#10]
13 Mar 2006
To: Button (LASERCHICK) [#1] 13 Mar 2006
We recently bought the "Main Trophy" shear and 3 in 1 corner punch. We got the 9385 shear. We have used the shear more than the punch. The only thing I can say is that it seems to do its job reasonably well. We had a problem with the metal being slightly bent at the corner where the shear finishes the cut (brass plated steel), but if you are careful and make sure to hold the sheet against the ruler, you can get a pretty good cut. When cutting brass plated steel, if you are cutting a larger piece, this can be difficult because of the leverage exerted during the cut. It was much easier to get a flat corner with aluminum since it is so soft compared to steel.
Complaints are that the ruler is crude at best and extends beyond the edge of the cutting table. I would much rather have had a larger table and a ruler that was calibrated in sixteenths. On the punch, while we haven't used it much yet, my initial impression is that the Accucutter model might have been a better decision. One specific complaint from my production manager, who has run a trophy shop for five years before coming to work for me, is that the hole punch punches a hole that looks too large to him. He's kind of a perfectionist (one of the reasons I hired him) and thinks that the diameter of the hole is almost as large as the head of the nails used to pin plates down. We'll see. If I was to do this all over again, I'd probably take a closer look at the Accu Cutter line.
Mark
From: Button (LASERCHICK) [#11]
13 Mar 2006
To: ALL
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#12]
13 Mar 2006
To: Button (LASERCHICK) [#11] 13 Mar 2006
The cutter has been a fine tool for me for I guess 15 years. Used correctly and kept in alignment, I have never yet needed it sharpened. I go through about 30 12x24 sheets of brass/aluminum every few months.
You just need to keep the screws on the vertical slide bar in the back set to zero clearance and keep it greased. After the first few adjustments, you can go a long time between adjustments, the wear-in period. Occasionally I will cut a sheet of paper with it. If the cut is not absolutely perfect without any hairs left, time to readjust. The more perfect the adjustment, the less wear and no discernible sharp edge left on the brass. I do not use plated steel, I always worry about moisture causing the edge to rust over the years.
A good adjustment also reduces the pull of the shear when cutting. It will pull a faint bit due to the fact that it is a paper cutter style not a guillotine style, which pulls less. Keep the table clean and for goodness sakes do not wax it, made that mistake ONCE. Press down on the piece to get more friction to the table it works better. When you finally wear the paint off the high spots it grabs even better. I have quite a few bald spots on my shear, as well as my head.
From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#13]
14 Mar 2006
To: Button (LASERCHICK) [#11] 14 Mar 2006
You said
I can assure you that you did.