Full Version: Morning Problem #1

From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#31]
 29 Apr 2006
To: gt350ed [#30] 1 May 2006

Ed,

That's the downside of ink jet sublimation. Some issues require time and patience.

With orders on hold, time and patience are in short supply.

If you need some bailout transfer printing, I'd be happy to help and I'm sure you'll find others willing to help as well.

From: logojohn [#32]
 30 Apr 2006
To: ALL

I thought it was not a good idea to switch back and forth between normal ink and sublimation ink.

The first 2 c84's that was previously used with regular ink had constant problems.

We bought c86 and only put sublimation ink in them from the beginning. They have some minor problems like minute dots over the page on white substrates but no major clogging or printing problems.

It is still problemic matching colors and other minor surprises. But more and more people are wanting full color logos and photos. It is good to be able to offer some options. Large orders are sent out to a pad printer or screener but it is nice to be able to do some smaller things inhouse in short notice. A customer actually came to the back and hugged me because she was so excited about some colored membership wallet cards I did. We only mess with the things that we can charge enough for to make it worth the hassle. There is still some wasted products from mistakes but it is becoming less with more experience from previous workarounds.

.

EDITED: 30 Apr 2006 by LOGOJOHN


From: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#33]
 30 Apr 2006
To: gt350ed [#30] 1 May 2006

Ed,

If you needed a couple doorstops to hold some doors open in the shop, I've gone through a couple worthless bulk systems and printers in the past.

I'd be willing to help out with laser transfers where I could. I haven't had any clogging problems since going laser sub.
>.< 

EDITED: 30 Apr 2006 by DATAKES


From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#34]
 30 Apr 2006
To: logojohn [#32] 30 Apr 2006

John,

Were the minute dots you've seen on white substrates around areas of a scanned image? If so, were the dots mainly a very faint magenta?

From: logojohn [#35]
 30 Apr 2006
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#34] 30 Apr 2006

They seem to be all colors. They are visible with a magnifying glass on the paper and only visible on white if you hold it within a foot of your eyes.

I try to use silver or gold metal or a shaded background that hides it when possible.

I have done the nozzle and printer cleaning through the menu and have ran paper towel through it as suggested earlier.

I have done a large badge order and some plaques with white background and nobody has complained yet. Just seems to be unavoidable unless you want to buy a new printer every month.

.

From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#36]
 30 Apr 2006
To: logojohn [#35] 30 Apr 2006

John,

So you're saying the backgrounding is across the entire plate?

Do you see it with "vector only" files; or files containing a combination of vector and bitmap?

From: logojohn [#37]
 30 Apr 2006
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#36] 30 Apr 2006

It is done with all vector line art text and logos.
They are printed with corel X3 or Xenetech.
I print a box around the plate for cutting the transfer for large singles
or press the whole thing and cut out the individual plates after with multiples.

The box has the color x'd out with a thin black outline for placement.

.

From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#38]
 30 Apr 2006
To: logojohn [#37] 30 Apr 2006

John,

When you create a box around an image, let's say the "keyline" for a namebadge, is the backgrounding only noticeable within the keyline?

I'm only asking, because that's something I've noticed with Epson 980's, which only seems to happen when a bitmap (scanned logo/photo) is part of the image.

I don't see it with "vector only" images.

Ultimately, it's not very noticeable and nobody I've talked to has been able to explain this anomaly.

EDITED: 30 Apr 2006 by DGL


From: logojohn [#39]
 30 Apr 2006
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#38] 30 Apr 2006

I haven't looked to see. I will next time.
A couple times I tried to leave the keyline off or use small cut guides instead of a full box but it didn't seem to help.

.

From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#40]
 30 Apr 2006
To: logojohn [#39] 30 Apr 2006

John,

As I said, I don't have an explanation or a cure. Just trying to see if it's something inherent with Epson desktop printers.

From: gt350ed [#41]
 1 May 2006
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#40] 1 May 2006

To David L., David T. and the numerous other forum friends that responded to my thread, A BIG THANK YOU!!

PROBLEM SOLVED!!! As it turned out, a thorough manual cleaning of the printhead through each separate nozzle was called for. My weapon of choice was/is distilled water. I had done a cleaning early on but, apparently, not sufficiently.

Having been doing sublimation for a long time at this point, I must say that the particular banding ("horizontal lines") I was experiencing was considerably different than what I have experienced in the past. So much so, that I was thrown in other directions in search of a solution.

Ultimately, the Stunted Engraver came forward suggesting that I might narrow the focus (pun) if I switched from a 4-color test pattern, to a 6-color pattern in light of the fact that my printer prints 6-color inks.

In doing so, I discovered that the "lines" showed up in all colors, not just Cyan, as had been the case with a 4-color pattern. I'm not sure why this was the case, it just was.

By switching out the dye-sub inks, replacing with Epson inks, I was able to determine that the issue was definitely related to partial clogging of the printhead. This was concluded because the Epson inks "flowed" and printed perfectly. It was the old "viscosity" issue between Epson inks and dye-sub inks.

In any event, it took about 5 separate cleanings of each nozzle, using 1 M/L of distilled water with each cleaning. I do it with a small syringe with a 3" piece of clear micro-tubing which I push over the nozzle. I also utilize a 1" x 8" piece of paper towel put under the printhead to absorb excess water that is not drawn back through the syringe with each cleaning. By the way...with the cartridge carriage undocked, the printer is unplugged during this procedure, among other things, so that the print carriage can be moved left and right freely.

The bottomline is that it worked perfectly and I'm back in business.

One last thing...it's actually been a very long time since I've had ANY dye-sub printer or ink problems. It just comes with the territory. The printer is a great printer and the inks are fine these days, as well. Although I have a bulk system, it has caused too many problems. I've abandoned it in favor of self-filling spongeless carts. Since the conversion, hardware-wise all is well....as long as the printhead is clean.

In addition to my own continuing education, I'm hoping that others "out there" might have benefited from this thread as well. Dye-sub is a great addition to any business involved in awards, decorating and personalized gifts. A lot of money can be made. So much so that cleaning, or even replacing a $300 printer should not slow one down for very long.

Thanks again to ALL.

From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#42]
 1 May 2006
To: gt350ed [#41] 1 May 2006

Ed,

I love a success story! :-) 

The good point you make, is, ink jet dye sub is definitely a mine field, but once the mountain is climbed and the school of hards knocks is in recess, it's a process that can be very lucrative and fun.

At times. (devil) 

EDITED: 1 May 2006 by DGL


From: gt350ed [#43]
 1 May 2006
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#42] 1 May 2006

Let me write that down.... B-) 

From: JHayes55 [#44]
 1 May 2006
To: gt350ed [#43] Unread

Glad you got it fixed buddy ;-) 

From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#45]
 1 May 2006
To: gt350ed [#41] Unread

I would highly suggest using Fantastic rather then distilled water. There is more then just sub particles that build up. Fantastic will dissolve or soften many of them therefore making the junk wipe off much more easily. Some people use alcohol or ammonia to help with no ill effects. I stick with Fantastic since from experience because it works well and I guarantee no ill effects.

The other thing that would work extremely well is DMSO, but it is dangerous to use without rubber gloves. It will truly dissolve the sub particles, but also many other organic chemicals and will make them absorbable rapidly right through the skin.


From: RALLYGUY (RALLYGUY1) [#46]
 1 May 2006
To: ALL

Glad you got it figured out ED.......


Harvey,

My understanding is that DMSO was an ingredient in the original SG forumula...I seem to remember having an MSDS with that on it somewhere.......


From: Mick [#47]
 2 May 2006
To: RALLYGUY (RALLYGUY1) [#46] 2 May 2006

Brian
I think maybe in the patent rather than MSDS


From: RALLYGUY (RALLYGUY1) [#48]
 2 May 2006
To: Mick [#47] 2 May 2006

Ahhhh, I believe you are right.........I know I have a copy of it somewhere in their information.

I believe I stand corrected.

Thanks Mick,

Brian


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