Full Version: Sizing Multiple Objects

From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#1]
 27 Aug 2006
To: ALL

Hi Gang,
Today I was working on a tile mural. I created my grid. I imported the image and THEN after seperating the image, I adjusted th tiles ONE by ONE to accomodate for bleed.
Do you know how to adjust ALL of the tile images at once?

Thanks


From: Shaddy [#2]
 27 Aug 2006
To: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#1] 27 Aug 2006

Not sure I understand 100%. Are you resizing a picture, or just a square?

It's not like a photograv'd picture that isn't supposed to be resized, right?

If it's something simple like just making a series of objects larger by a set amount, it might be accomplished by a macro.

Maybe posting a just-before CDR and an after CDR will help.

Shaddy


From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#3]
 27 Aug 2006
To: Shaddy [#2] 28 Aug 2006

quote:
If it's something simple like just making a series of objects larger by a set amount, it might be accomplished by a macro.


Shaddy, in "essence" that is exactly what it is......I'll try and post a cdr but now I'm going to bed.

But essentially, I take the graph tool, create a "mural" convert to curves, combine, insert my object then break apart. The individual "tiles" need to be .1 of an inch larger.....in this particular case there are 18. Rather than resized them individually, I want to resize them all at the same time.

By the way, how close are you to Manson WA?

Thanks

EDITED: 27 Aug 2006 by C_BURKE


From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#4]
 27 Aug 2006
To: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#1] 28 Aug 2006

Chuck,

When making murals, I make the grid size for a 6" tile, 6.1 inches, before printing the transfers.

From: Mick [#5]
 27 Aug 2006
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#4] 27 Aug 2006

I make my grids to the size of the tile plus the .1 overlap. A 3 X 4 tile, 6" grid would be 18.3" X 24.4". Then no re-sizing is necessary, each transfer will be the required 6.1" square.

From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#6]
 27 Aug 2006
To: Mick [#5] 28 Aug 2006

Mick,

I think we're doing it the same way.

I forgot to mention that I adjust the size of the image before breaking it apart.

Example: 18 x 24 image is enlarged to 18.3 (or larger) by 24.4 (or larger).

The reason I would make the image larger than necessary, is to leave ample room for adjustments, in case the transition (line) between tiles falls in an awkward position, i.e. a line through a person's mouth etc.

From: Shaddy [#7]
 28 Aug 2006
To: ALL

I might not be picturing correctly. So once you have a grid, and a picture, and you separate, you're left with a bunch of square shapes with images inside?

Are these tiles that sit side by side with no gap, or will they have the grout (so a 1/4" gap will be between tiles).

Chuck, when you resize, does the image ramain the same size, only the tile is larger? So you create a .05 gap between the pic and the box?

Is that gap what is useful for the bleed? If so, I don't see how making the tile larger to begin with accomplishes this, and it seems that some of the picture will be wasted.

Sorry for the qustions, it's all new to me and I'm curious. The only muraling/tiling I've done involved squares (not from the "grid" function) with a 1/4 gap, and then power clipping the image into the shapes. So that 1/4" gap worth of image was unused, but it seemed to have more continuity to my eye, the little offsets from one without that didn't look as natural.

Shaddy


From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#8]
 28 Aug 2006
To: Shaddy [#7] 28 Aug 2006

Yes, the picture is broken apart, leaving individual squares, that include a segment of the overall image.

Depending on the size of the heat press, tiles may be printed one or two at a pressing; or with a wider format printer and a 16 x 20 inch heat press, it's possible to print an entire image, place the tiles and print the (2 tile by 3 tile) 6" tiles in one pressing.

The tiles are placed side-by-side. Some tiles have no grout spacers and some do. Naturally, those without are referred to as "spacerless" tiles.

The little bit of image that's lost through the oversizing, to facilitate a full bleed, isn't noticeable when the mural is complete.

From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#9]
 28 Aug 2006
To: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#1] 28 Aug 2006

This is an old tip from my old help page.

Making a Corel Template for Tile Murals

This is descended from the post of ARTGLASS crediting Tropical Graphics, crediting the original to Imprints, USA. Thank you all for this solid foundation to start from. It works in Corel 7 and 9. I have not tried it in any other version.

To make a template for tiles WITH overlapping edges to aid in alignment when subbing, use this procedure. Modify if you need loss of image for tiles with spacers.

Be sure that your image can be made to .2 inches larger than the final picture. (You will lose .1 inch from each edge.)

1) Open a new file in the normal size that you use.

2) With the box tool draw a box. Resize it to .2 inches longer and .2 inches higher than your tile to provide a .1 inch overlap on each edge.

3) Using the 'select' tool, click outside of the page. Set the duplicate X value to the horizontal size of the tile plus .1 inch and the duplicate Y value to 0.00.

4) Using 'ctrl+d' duplicate the number of tiles that you will use across.

5) Click outside of the page again. Set the duplicate X value to 0.00 and the duplicate Y value to the size of the tile plus .1 inch, remembering to make it a negative value. Now select all of the boxes and duplicate with 'ctrl+d' the number of tiles you will use downward.

6) Select all of the boxes and click on 'combine', Not group.

This gives you the template. Follow the instructions found at the Tropical Graphics website from here. When you separate the boxes there will be a duplicate edge on each tile containing a piece of the next tile image to help in aligning the image without losing the edge piece of image between tiles.

The Corel 7 print preview works a little differently than The Tropical Graphics instructions. To solve this problem put as many tiles on the page that will fit, then move toe others outside the borders of the page. Click 'layout' and 'insert pages' to add pages. When you go to the next page, anything outside of the original page will still show. Move what you need onto the page. You will now have a multi-page document that can be printed easily in a group or as single pages.

From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#10]
 28 Aug 2006
To: Mick [#5] 28 Aug 2006

quote:
I make my grids to the size of the tile plus the .1 overlap. A 3 X 4 tile, 6" grid would be 18.3" X 24.4". Then no re-sizing is necessary, each transfer will be the required 6.1" square.


Mick,
Thanks. That was the answer I was looking for I think. Oddly enough it only just occured to me while I was waking up this morning......

Thanks again

From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#11]
 28 Aug 2006
To: Shaddy [#7] 28 Aug 2006

Shaddy,
Email me at apawards AT hawaii DOT rr DOT com and I'll send you the complete CDR file so you can actually see it. What version are you using?
I would post here, but the file with the picture would be too big.


From: Shaddy [#12]
 28 Aug 2006
To: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#11] 28 Aug 2006

Sounds like you got it taken care of. I was just going to see about making a macro to enlarge by your amount. looks like you don't have to do that now though.

In some cases screen captures are acceptable to get a point across, just hit print screen on your keyboard to capture whole screen into clipboard (or alt-prt scrn to capture only active window). Open your image program and paste it in then crop and save.

I use this when I want to make a tutorial or something similar.

It looks like Manson is a few hours away from me. It's north of the center of the state, I'm in Vancouver, close to Portland OR. You know people there?

Shaddy


From: Shaddy [#13]
 28 Aug 2006
To: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#1] 28 Aug 2006

One more thing... On most repetitive tasks, like resizing, if you can do all the changes at once (like changing height and width at the same time) you can redo the same change on another object by selecting it, then pressing CTRL-R (I guess R for Redo, although most windows products use CTRL-Y for that redo feature).

Can speed things along nicely with left hand on the CTRL R and right hand on the mouse selecting objects.

Shaddy


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