Full Version: Help with Color filling

From: Funkmeister (FUNKY) [#1]
 20 Sep 2006
To: ALL

Good morning all. I know this has been discussed on the forum before but can't find it. I just recieved a call for 10, 10.5x 13 plaques to laser and color fill with gold. The timing isn't the greatest either. This big company has to have by Sat. Whoopie!!!!
Anyone got a quick and good system to use in engraving and color filling these. I really haven't done that many plaques that need color filled.
This could lead to a very large payday down the road. I'm Thinking of retiring from my real job in Jan. 34 years full time and then this business is doing well enough to dump the pain in the a-s job.
Anyway please help me out. thanks

From: Mike (MIKEN) [#2]
 20 Sep 2006
To: Funkmeister (FUNKY) [#1] 20 Sep 2006

I mask the whole thing engrave it and then use gold spray paint. (usually Krylon)
If just something like the logo gets the highlight either cover the rest of it or do the engraving in two steps.

My preference is to use foil as the gold highlight if the customer will agree.

From: Funkmeister (FUNKY) [#3]
 20 Sep 2006
To: Mike (MIKEN) [#2] 20 Sep 2006

The lasering and filling shouldn't be a problem. The picking the small pieces of mask out of the letters and logo is takes up alot of time. I was just wondering if thre was a faster way of doing this. I think I read about a wax on the plaque, engrave and then color fill. If I had the time I would mess with it but I don't. thanks for the help

From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#4]
 20 Sep 2006
To: Funkmeister (FUNKY) [#1] 20 Sep 2006

Gary,

What material is the plaque made of?

If the plaque board doesn't have a porous surface, such as a piano finish plaque, I've seen nice results with Rub 'N" Buff.

Rub the shoe-polish-consistency material into the letters, let sit for a while and wipe off the excess.

From: Funkmeister (FUNKY) [#5]
 20 Sep 2006
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#4] 20 Sep 2006

The whole thing is based on time here. I really don't want to sit and take out little pieces of masking on the plaque. It's a got wording and a logo with alot of detail. What a mess. Do you know if I can use a clear wax, laser color fill and then wipe of the wax?

From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#6]
 20 Sep 2006
To: Funkmeister (FUNKY) [#5] 20 Sep 2006

The question is still, what is the plaque made of? I have never been able to fill a natural wood plaque successfully, there is bleed in the wood grain.

From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#7]
 20 Sep 2006
To: Funkmeister (FUNKY) [#5] 20 Sep 2006

There's no weeding involved with Rub "N" Buff.

You don't even need to cover the whole plaque with color; just the engraved areas themselves.

As I mentioned, this won't work if you're using a plaque board with a porous grain, i.e. Oak. The color gets into the pores and all the King's Horses won't remove it.

Piano finish or acrylic plaques will like Rub "N" Buff. :-) 

From: Funkmeister (FUNKY) [#8]
 20 Sep 2006
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#6] 20 Sep 2006

OOOOOOOOPS!!! Sorry :-$  The plaques are the Precision Walnut from JDS. They are laserable. Thanks

From: Dave Jones (DAVERJ) [#9]
 20 Sep 2006
To: Funkmeister (FUNKY) [#8] 20 Sep 2006

I read on a woodworking forum that to prevent color bleed into the wood, after lasering it, spay through the mask with a clear Krylon, then let it dry and spray on the color. The clear seals the wood in the engraving so the color doesn't get into the grain.

I never tried it, but thought I'd mention it.

From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#10]
 20 Sep 2006
To: Dave Jones (DAVERJ) [#9] 20 Sep 2006

Thanks for reminding me, I have meant to try that.

Again that is a lot of weeding at the end for him. Then again, some things are just not easy. That is how you make a name for yourself. The problem is that some customers want a custom chiseled award for $9.95.

Or a three hour production time plaque for $19.95. (Three hour digitizing of logo for free also.)

From: Funkmeister (FUNKY) [#11]
 20 Sep 2006
To: ALL

Okay good friends....I talked to Epilog techs and they said the way to do this is masking, color fill and sit there and pick out the small pieces of masking that's left. Then I called a wood craftsman that does alot of color filling wood crafts. He suggested how about using a vasoline type coverage over the plaque before engraving. The laser should burn away the coverage then spray paint the plaque. Wait until it is dry and wipe away the vasoline. Don't know if it will work but I think it might be worth a try. I think it sounds like it could work. If not, it looks like it's going to be a long night. What do you people think.

From: Mike (MIKEN) [#12]
 20 Sep 2006
To: Funkmeister (FUNKY) [#11] 20 Sep 2006

That's a new one on me. Let us know if it works.

From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#13]
 20 Sep 2006
To: Funkmeister (FUNKY) [#11] 20 Sep 2006

If the wood is sealed, and the paint does not dissolve the Vaseline, it sounds like a perfect solution.

Let us know how it goes.

From: Dave Jones (DAVERJ) [#14]
 20 Sep 2006
To: Funkmeister (FUNKY) [#11] 20 Sep 2006

I have never tried anything like vaseline, but one thing to consider is that the laser has a "heat affected zone" around the area being engraved that might cook away some of the vaseline right around the detail, making it not so effective as a mask. I'm just speculating here, and don't know if that's true. Seems it's worth testing.

I have never done paint filling, but the way I weed out small bits of mask on regular wood engravings is by taking some strong packing tape and pressing it over the weeded area and then pull it off at an angle. A couple of passes like that usually gets all the small bits.

From: logojohn [#15]
 20 Sep 2006
To: Funkmeister (FUNKY) [#11] 20 Sep 2006

A papermask is all you need for spraypaint for red alder and walnut.
The papermask I use is not highly tacky so makes weeding easy.
Innotec of wisconsin has some about 16" wide for bigger plaques.

I sometimes put some tape over it after lasered and dried and squeegy it down good. When you pull the masking up most of the islands stick to the tape and come out. I sometimes also just removie the main part and the islands will even come off by running a crumpled up paper towel or clean rag over it or grabbing them with small pieces of tape.

From: JHayes55 [#16]
 24 Sep 2006
To: Funkmeister (FUNKY) [#1] 25 Sep 2006

Funky - How did your job turn out ? What method did you end up using for color fill and clean up?

I read this thread a little late to offer suggestions but, if you have to do this in the future I will give you one of my methods of paint and color fill. It is very close to what others have offered as suggestions.
We use "application tape" same stuff we use to cover vinyl lettering. Most any brand /style will work - avaliable from most any sign supply company in cut rolls - pick your width. Cover plaque, mask and squeegee (rub) down.
Laser, paint, allow to dry, peel mask using the fold back on itself method and peel off slowly. Centers and small parts - use a plastic squeegee wrapped tightly with paper towel, rub at an angle across the plaque - go a couple different directions if need be. Finish with a little pledge on a paper towel.

Joe

From: Funkmeister (FUNKY) [#17]
 25 Sep 2006
To: ALL

Good morning all. Well I completed the plaques. I went ahead and used the masking method for these. I did a test run on the other thing I was talking about and it came out pretty good. A little melting but not that bad. With a little tweaking of the system it may work. Good coverage of the vaseline is a must. Now that I have a little time I might work on that aspect of the plaques.
Thank to my daughter e got these plaues done Sat. p.m. She just loved picking out all the little pieces. She was so proud of herself. And yes she was paid for this. (oops, maybe I shouldn't have said that)

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