Full Version: Dye Sub on Metal
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#20]
15 Oct 2006
To: Mike (MIKEN) [#19] 16 Oct 2006
Mike,
Sometimes, hi-release papers, such as Textprint XP, aren't compatible with metal. Releases too much dye, leading to "cockeling" or a "beading" appearance.
1401, commonly known as True Pix has pretty much replaced Accuplot as the industry standard.
Why?
1) Thicker sheet thickness, results in fewer "feed" problems.
2) Better release of dye, for more vibrant colors.
3) Better archivability; meaning you can print transfers further ahead of actual pressing, without the transfers bleeding or migrating.
Note: It's never a good idea to print transfers "too" far ahead of your pressing schedule; meaning more than a couple of days.
I can't understand, with the information you've given, why you're having such a difficulty in printing metal.
If you'd like, you can send me some of your transfers and metal samples and I may be able to CSI your problem.
EDITED: 15 Oct 2006 by DGL
From: Zonas [#21]
16 Oct 2006
To: gt350ed [#16] 16 Oct 2006
Not only Harvey gets away with it (devil) I've printed metal face up with only a teflon sheet and with a rubber pad - haven't noticed any difference.
Zona
From: Mike (MIKEN) [#22]
16 Oct 2006
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#20] 16 Oct 2006
Thanks for the offer. As with most things I'm pretty sure this will boil down to operator error.
I'm going to spend some time today experimenting to see if I can resolve it. If not I'll take you up on your offer.
From: Mike (MIKEN) [#23]
16 Oct 2006
To: ALL
I did not try the Textprint today, only true Pix. Results were ok. didn't really pop like I expect sub stuff to do. It seemed like a lot of ink remained on the paper.
At least it's not sticking or leaving marks.
Thanks everybody for your help.
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#24]
16 Oct 2006
To: Mike (MIKEN) [#23] 16 Oct 2006
If you sub UnisubFR with the image on the bottom, you will need extra time to get the heat through the material. The accepting surface needs to reach 400* for a certain time.
If not enough time the colors may be a little off and it will not have the pop because too much ink is on the paper and not in the product.
From: Mike (MIKEN) [#25]
16 Oct 2006
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#24] 17 Oct 2006
For sure I'm going to Unisub metal though.
From: RALLYGUY (RALLYGUY1) [#26]
16 Oct 2006
To: Mike (MIKEN) [#25] 16 Oct 2006
Hi Mike,
Unisub is properly done at 400 degrees for 60 seconds through the back. Aluminum conducts heat very efficiently, and it works just as well front or back with the temps and times.....Adding a pad can change the times however....so that will have to be accounted for.....
From: Mike (MIKEN) [#27]
16 Oct 2006
To: RALLYGUY (RALLYGUY1) [#26] 16 Oct 2006
Thanks, I'm getting closer. Just need to tweak it a bit.
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