Full Version: Rigid Laminate
From: Andrew [#5]
21 Feb 2007
To: rj (RANDYJOYCE) [#4] 26 Feb 2007
"We frequently use tapered cutters say 10 degrees per side and the bevel is unnoticed and cutter life much longer than parallel cutters."
Just yesterday I also got some samples of key fobs in rigid laminate. On inspecting the edge I found it to have a very small bevel - not really noticeable.
I think I will try this approach with the tapered cutter. It will also make resharpening the cutter simpler. Does this need a small tip at the end. I had a quick look on the Antares site and what you described sounds like their 'Profiler'. The image on their site has the cutter going to a point- do you have this tipped to increase stength?
Many thanks
Andrew
From: Andrew [#6]
21 Feb 2007
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#2] 25 Feb 2007
Hi David
Yes - the material is Phenolic. The scraps I have are 5 ply - there is a black core, red layer and then white outer layer.
I broke two 'router mills' last week when using them for the 1st time with some brass. I went straight back to trusty my paraller cutters. I will stick to these or the approach Joyce gave.
I am so pleased I bought a cutter grinder recently - makes things so much more flexible.
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#7]
25 Feb 2007
To: Andrew [#6] Unread
I've used steep angled cutters (such as you've shown) for profiling material. Works very well.
What they're also good for is 3-D reverse engraving. Let's you go deep into the material, without making the characters to bold.
The effect is more pronounced with a clear material, as opposed to a matte finish. Looks like raised letters under glass.
From: rj (RANDYJOYCE) [#8]
26 Feb 2007
To: Andrew [#5] Unread
I apologize for the delay in responding. I didn't receive an email notification and haven't been on.
Size the tip for the depth you are going (1/16, 3/32, 1/8 or ?), the spindle power available and toughness of the material. We generally use .01 to .06 tip.