Full Version: need rub-n-buff help
From: Peck.Sidara (LAOPADAK) [#11]
20 Dec 2004
To: Lynn (LYNNDENO) [#10] 20 Dec 2004
Hi Lynn,
At this point it sounds like the problem is coming from the rotary itself or the object itself. I don't think it's user error unless someone is moving the material after it is engraved and places it back thinking they could position it exactly as it was before.
There is nothing wrong with the machine if you can repeat jobs on flat materials. If there was something wrong with the machine, you would experience the same problem on both flat and rotary use.
There are a few things we need to check with the rotary. There is a set-screw that holds the rotary motor pulley in place. We need to confirm that it is tight. We also need to check the belt tension (yellow belt) located behind the rotary. We also need to check the condition of the o-rings that the objects sit on. If the o-rings are worn, that can cause the object to slip. Lastly, we need to make sure the object is heavy enough for the rotary to grip it and rotate it correctly. Sometimes if your object isn't heavy enough, it just slips.
So there you have it, we need to check all of the above. If you have any questions, again, you can call me and we'll discuss over the phone. 303.215.9171
Regards,
Peck
From: Pedaler (ROYBREWER) [#12]
20 Dec 2004
To: Lynn (LYNNDENO) [#10] 21 Dec 2004
Lynn,
Another thing I suggest you consider. If possible, put your engraving at the very top of the CorelDRAW page.
The less movement in the engraving process, the less likely a slip will occur. For instance, if you have a page size of 6x6 and put 2" of copy in the center of the page then the cylindrical attachment will rotate (at aggressive speed) for two inches before it starts engraving, then rotate (at aggressive speed) 4" to get back home. If you put your copy at the very top of the page then engraving starts immediately and you've reduced your aggressive motion from 6" total to 2"!
This is even more critical if you are engraving objects with significant handles(large military beer mugs, for instance) that add uneven momentum when reversing directions.
I understand that this requires a bit more "figuring" to determine the positioning of the glass when you need to put engraving at a specific location on the circumference, but for most glasses that doesn't matter and this will be your best solution to reduce total rotation.
Lastly, I've never been able to tell that engraving glass twice gives you better results than engraving once at twice the power. So as far as I'm concerned, the best solution is to determine your optimum speed/power settings for one pass engraving; which might have been what the tech was trying to say.
HTH,