Full Version: need rub-n-buff help

From: Peck.Sidara (LAOPADAK) [#9]
 20 Dec 2004
To: Lynn (LYNNDENO) [#5] 20 Dec 2004

Dear Lynn,

My name is Peck and I'm the supervisor for Epilog's tech support. I am sorry to hear about the trouble you had when working with us over the phone. I would like to know whom you were dealing with so I can take the necessary actions on our end. If you can recall the tech's name, that would be great.

Regarding the repeatability of the rotary, my first suggestion is to try repeating jobs on flat material so we can determine if there is a problem within the machine or the rotary itself. If the artwork/text shifts when using flat material then there is a problem within the machien itself. Our next step would be to find out if it's shifting left to right or top to bottom.

If the art/text does not shift when using flat material then the problem is coming from the rotary. Unfortunately with the rotary, you have the possibility of the object slipping and I think this could be the cause of the problem. There shouldn't be any issues repeating jobs using the rotary because the rotary should return to it's starting point after the job is complete.

Feel free to contact me directly at 303.215.9171 if you have any further questions or concerns.

Regards,
Peck
AKA Epitech


From: Lynn (LYNNDENO) [#10]
 20 Dec 2004
To: Peck.Sidara (LAOPADAK) [#9] 20 Dec 2004

Thank you for responding, but I can not remember the tech's name. I amable to run multiple passes on flat objects and I haven't tried recently to do multiple on the rotary. I tried 4 or 5 times when I started learning with the rotary. We haven't used it very long and are still learning. We have only had the laser since the end of august. I would run a design and then it returns to home and I tried to run another pass it started before the other previous design, so there are 2 images instead of one deep one. It could be an opperator problem and not the machine but that is my problem, I need to know which and what I might be doing wrong.
Thanks to everyone

From: Peck.Sidara (LAOPADAK) [#11]
 20 Dec 2004
To: Lynn (LYNNDENO) [#10] 20 Dec 2004

Hi Lynn,

At this point it sounds like the problem is coming from the rotary itself or the object itself. I don't think it's user error unless someone is moving the material after it is engraved and places it back thinking they could position it exactly as it was before.

There is nothing wrong with the machine if you can repeat jobs on flat materials. If there was something wrong with the machine, you would experience the same problem on both flat and rotary use.

There are a few things we need to check with the rotary. There is a set-screw that holds the rotary motor pulley in place. We need to confirm that it is tight. We also need to check the belt tension (yellow belt) located behind the rotary. We also need to check the condition of the o-rings that the objects sit on. If the o-rings are worn, that can cause the object to slip. Lastly, we need to make sure the object is heavy enough for the rotary to grip it and rotate it correctly. Sometimes if your object isn't heavy enough, it just slips.

So there you have it, we need to check all of the above. If you have any questions, again, you can call me and we'll discuss over the phone. 303.215.9171

Regards,
Peck


From: Pedaler (ROYBREWER) [#12]
 20 Dec 2004
To: Lynn (LYNNDENO) [#10] 21 Dec 2004

Lynn,

Another thing I suggest you consider. If possible, put your engraving at the very top of the CorelDRAW page.
The less movement in the engraving process, the less likely a slip will occur. For instance, if you have a page size of 6x6 and put 2" of copy in the center of the page then the cylindrical attachment will rotate (at aggressive speed) for two inches before it starts engraving, then rotate (at aggressive speed) 4" to get back home. If you put your copy at the very top of the page then engraving starts immediately and you've reduced your aggressive motion from 6" total to 2"!

This is even more critical if you are engraving objects with significant handles(large military beer mugs, for instance) that add uneven momentum when reversing directions.

I understand that this requires a bit more "figuring" to determine the positioning of the glass when you need to put engraving at a specific location on the circumference, but for most glasses that doesn't matter and this will be your best solution to reduce total rotation.

Lastly, I've never been able to tell that engraving glass twice gives you better results than engraving once at twice the power. So as far as I'm concerned, the best solution is to determine your optimum speed/power settings for one pass engraving; which might have been what the tech was trying to say.

HTH,


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