Full Version: WHAT FUN!
From: Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC) [#10]
18 Mar 2007
To: UncleSteve [#6] 19 Mar 2007
Sounds cool....how's the quality? We've gone VOIP for the company, and it's actually pretty good.
EDITED: 18 Mar 2007 by GREAT_ATLANTIC
From: Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC) [#11]
18 Mar 2007
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#7] 18 Mar 2007
Interesting! And the materials have no ill-effect from the additional time in the press? I read in some of the materials that were sent that some items will warp slightly (FR Luggage tags for example) and should be cooled under even pressure from a flat, heavy item.
EDITED: 18 Mar 2007 by GREAT_ATLANTIC
From: Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC) [#12]
18 Mar 2007
To: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#8] 18 Mar 2007
Got it....right back to ya'. BTW...I kinda like free too! :P
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#13]
18 Mar 2007
To: Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC) [#11] 18 Mar 2007
Jim,
No ill effects, by pressing items face-down, other than what you mentioned about FRP warping.
Be careful about setting heavy objects on top of freshly-pressed FRP.
At that point, the material is very soft and you can cause permanent indentations or other undesireable marks on the surface.
EDITED: 18 Mar 2007 by DGL
From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#14]
18 Mar 2007
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#9] 18 Mar 2007
EDITED: 18 Mar 2007 by C_BURKE
From: Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC) [#15]
18 Mar 2007
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#13] 18 Mar 2007
Be careful about setting heavy objects on top of freshly-pressed FRP.
At that point, the material is very soft and you can cause permanent indentations or other undesireable marks on the surface.
Ok...I thought perhaps a marble plaque (polished side down) might do the trick, but I'll be careful.
One more question before calling it a night. Since the transfer is obscured by the item being sublimated when pressing this way, do you create registration marks on the transfer paper for alignment when there's no bleed image?
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#16]
18 Mar 2007
To: Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC) [#15] 19 Mar 2007
A smooth piece of marble, placed on top, should work as a means of controlling the warp of hot FRP, but make sure it's clean. Something as small as a stray grain of sand can make an indelible mark on FRP.
I use a keyline around items which don't require a full bleed image.
For example, the lines you see on this page of transfers, (depicting the outer edge of the badge), is actually larger than the size of the badge.
I use a .1 pt hairline and make the keyline about .08" larger (in each direction) than the badge size itself, i.e. for a 1 x 3 name badge, I use a 1.08" x 3.08" keyline, which is close enough to the finished size of the badge to ensure accurate placement of the image, while far enough from the substrate to make it a non-printable line.
Sweet dreams. :-)
EDITED: 18 Mar 2007 by DGL
From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#17]
18 Mar 2007
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#16] 18 Mar 2007
David,
If Jim starts dreaming about sublimating things, I am going to run screaming.....( insert hearty laugh here)
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#18]
18 Mar 2007
To: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#17] 18 Mar 2007
Jim seems pretty excited about the possibilities sublimation has to offer.
He'll be dreaming up ideas, even while he's awake. :-)
From: Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC) [#19]
19 Mar 2007
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#16] 19 Mar 2007
Got it....the keyline seems easier than trying to align with registration marks. I'll give it a go......thanks as always!
After shoveling almost 2 feet of snow off the walkway, I don't even remember going to bed let alone dreaming I-)
From: Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC) [#20]
19 Mar 2007
To: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#17] 19 Mar 2007
Start screaming, Chuck!
Oh wait, that was a different dream.... :B
From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#21]
19 Mar 2007
To: Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC) [#19] 19 Mar 2007
Jim,
A hard learned lesson. Make sure the key line is completely away from the substrate.
I use key lines to align my graphics for coffee cups. Then I usually trim the paper in a paper cutter. It "looked" to ME that I had actually cut the line off. I could not see them at all, BUT when I pressed the mugs, sure enough there was an errant line...and the mug was wasted...
Just something else for you to dream about ;-) ( insert "just what ARE you dreaming about" laugh here.
From: Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC) [#22]
19 Mar 2007
To: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#21] 19 Mar 2007
Chuck...
Sounds like I really have to be careful when setting up the keyline. Do you guys bother to tape the material to the transfer or am I pretty safe with the swinger?
From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#23]
19 Mar 2007
To: Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC) [#22] 19 Mar 2007
Jim,
I cannot speak for anyothers, but I always tape my material. Even with a swing away press material can shift......
By the way, did you talk to Matt?
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#24]
19 Mar 2007
To: Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC) [#22] 19 Mar 2007
Jim,
You definitely want to tape the substrate to the transfer.
In the case of the transfer for the EE badges, I just use enough tape to create a "tab" along one side (the length) of the plate. No need to plaster it down; you're simply trying to keep the two pieces from shifting, while closing and opening the press.
For larger plates, I use a couple of tabs of tape along all four sides of the plate.
EDITED: 19 Mar 2007 by DGL
From: Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC) [#25]
19 Mar 2007
To: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#23] 19 Mar 2007
No, didn't have a free minute today, Chuck. Hopefully I can break away for a quick call tomorrow.
From: Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC) [#26]
20 Mar 2007
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#24] 21 Mar 2007
OK, so less is more in this case...good news because the tape's not cheap! :S
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#27]
21 Mar 2007
To: Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC) [#26] 21 Mar 2007
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#28]
21 Mar 2007
To: Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC) [#26] 21 Mar 2007
Transfer tape goes a long way, as long as you don't use overkill.
If you charge enough for your work, compared to ink pricing, it's not much of a consideration.
From: Mick [#29]
21 Mar 2007
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#28] 21 Mar 2007
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