Full Version: Just curious
From: JHayes55 [#14]
30 Mar 2005
To: precisionlaser [#12] 31 Mar 2005
From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#15]
30 Mar 2005
To: JHayes55 [#13] 31 Mar 2005
Now did I say anything disparaging? I mean all I said was that I would look like you :) (Insert laugh here)
From: JHayes55 [#16]
31 Mar 2005
To: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#15] 31 Mar 2005
All I can say is that when it come out just accept it and for goodness
sake never start that comb-over style.
Nothing worse than a man with 14" hair all from one side just above the
ear combed from side to side - or back to front. Geesh!!
:)
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#17]
31 Mar 2005
To: JHayes55 [#16] 1 Apr 2005
As long as you have some left in the front, a ponytail covers a lot and is not as obvious. (Snicker, snicker.)
From: JHayes55 [#18]
1 Apr 2005
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#17] 1 Apr 2005
Harvey
So true. If that is the case then Lazerdud need to get started very fast.
Ok Chuck - time is wasteing - get those 2 or 3 up front to work on that
pony tail.
From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#19]
1 Apr 2005
To: JHayes55 [#18] 2 Apr 2005
From: UCONN Dave & Lynn too (DANDL48) [#20]
2 Apr 2005
To: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#19] 2 Apr 2005
Chuck,
Ever get the laser resist and how did it work?
Dave
From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#21]
2 Apr 2005
To: UCONN Dave & Lynn too (DANDL48) [#20] 2 Apr 2005
Dave,
I did get the laser resist. I have just not developed the patience for it yet. I thought I had it working, but then I realized that in my quest to get it smooth, I stretched it to hard and far, so when I lasered it, it stretched even more. Interesting effect but not good for my customer.
Sooooooo we have sprayed all the glasses with Plasti Dip and it seems to work fine. Once I'm done with my key fob project, I'll be back to the glasses. If I remember, I'll send you a picture of one.
Hi to Lynn
From: UCONN Dave & Lynn too (DANDL48) [#22]
2 Apr 2005
To: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#21] 2 Apr 2005
Chuck,
What's the dementions of the artwork?
Dave
From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#23]
2 Apr 2005
To: UCONN Dave & Lynn too (DANDL48) [#22] 2 Apr 2005
Dave,
Top to bottom is 1.25". side to side is 1".
The challenge is that the font size gets smaller near the bottom and I cannot get a clean blast for the font. The logo comes out great. I don't know if it would help if I could get the mask to lay flat.....
From: UCONN Dave & Lynn too (DANDL48) [#24]
2 Apr 2005
To: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#23] 2 Apr 2005
I see.
You do have a rotary attachment for the laser?
Dave
Message 1040.25 was deleted
From: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#26]
2 Apr 2005
To: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#23] 2 Apr 2005
Chuck,
The logo you sent me for the glasses had very small, fine letters for the last two lines. Is your customer flexible enough to allow you to enlarge the image at all, or is the glass restricting you to this dimension?
I bought my new inkjet yesterday and will be doing a RapidMask test for you (and me) this afternoon. I will post the results, with or without success. I will also report the PIR Factor, if I feel it is warranted. PIR Factor = Pain In Rear.
From: UCONN Dave & Lynn too (DANDL48) [#27]
2 Apr 2005
To: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#26] 2 Apr 2005
David,
What kind of an inkjet did you get? Pigmented Inks?
Dave
From: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#28]
2 Apr 2005
To: UCONN Dave & Lynn too (DANDL48) [#27] 2 Apr 2005
Dave,
I ended up getting an Epson C86. At the store I was able to print a sample image on AccuArt 2 and it was very opaque. I am still not sold on RapidMask resist yet, so I wasn't in the spirit to spend much money on an inkjet.
From: UCONN Dave & Lynn too (DANDL48) [#29]
2 Apr 2005
To: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#28] 2 Apr 2005
From: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#30]
2 Apr 2005
To: UCONN Dave & Lynn too (DANDL48) [#29] 2 Apr 2005
Dave,
Today is the first serious effort I have made to get RapidMask figured out. I wanted to take on the challenge of Chuck's image on a compound angled wine glass.
I first printed out the image on AccuArt 2 and exposed the Rapid Mask HD. Placed the developed resist onto the glass, masked the exposed areas and blasted.
Knowing that this was a 2-Mil material, I blasted lightly by holding the nozzle much further away from the glass than I typically do. Even when taking this precaution, there was a thin area of the image with larger etched areas on each side that blew out. This happened on two different attempts.
I then wanted to see what would happen with the RapidMask HT, which is a 4-Mil material. At the point of this writing, I am still trying to determine the exposure time to get the image area brittle enough to where it will actually blast away.
I have a NuArc 26-1K exposure unit. Photobrasive recommends a setting of 60 integrator units. I did their recommended test to determine the proper exposure level for my particular unit and I ended up at 75 integrator units. I expose the film, tried to blast, and still not brittle enough.
I also had a problem with pitting around the image. I am sure this would even be more pronounced on optical crystal.
I really like the idea of a no-wash-out resist, but if this material has a higher risk for blow-out and it is tempermental, I may find it difficult to make the change.
I am open to change, but it has to be a positive one.
EDITED: 2 Apr 2005 by DATAKES
From: LaZerDude (CHUCK_BURKE) [#31]
2 Apr 2005
To: UCONN Dave & Lynn too (DANDL48) [#24] 2 Apr 2005
Dave,
I do have a rotary attachment for my laser.
From: LaZerDude (CHUCK_BURKE) [#32]
2 Apr 2005
To: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#26] 2 Apr 2005
David,
The original file (eps) is the one THEY gave me. The cdr file is as large as I could get it and still meet their requirments.
The glasses that came from LIBBEY, I have come to the conculsion, are acid etched or something, so it is next to impossible for me to match that.
Let me know how it works out for you.
It took me about a nano second to figure out PIR. Trust me, the PIR is very HIGH!
From: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#33]
2 Apr 2005
To: LaZerDude (CHUCK_BURKE) [#32] Unread
Chuck,
Because of the shape of the image, I was able to place the photo resist on the glass without much problem. The key is to force the buckling effect of the resist from the center of the top and bottom out to the left and right. This allows the image area to lay flat on the glass and forces the buckled areas to the left and right where there is no image.
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