Full Version: Making Wood darker

From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#8]
 5 Apr 2005
To: laserman (MIKEMAC) [#7] 5 Apr 2005

Thanks to both.

It is a very light wood and the clear discolors it a bit, (it gets stained with a light stain afterward, but still shows a bit), but does seal the grain from the color. I tried the Krylon black. I guess it needed a much lighter first coat to act as a sealer. Staining it first then filling is not a possibility due to the mask that needs to be burned through with the artwork for color filling.

A latex paint might work far better. It is thicker and might even start to set up as the wood absorbs the water to the grain. A very good suggestion also.

The wax trick is a great one, but the product is totally unfinished and that look is required. A polished surface would not work. The stain is used with the sealer as part of it. That gives a good rustic look and protects it from dirt such as fingerprints.

 

From: scroller (JEFF) [#9]
 5 Apr 2005
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#8] 5 Apr 2005

I have a 75 watt laser and for lettering run it a 10% speed and 100% power and get a dark brown mark on oak and a medium brown mark on maple. Alder I am able to engrave at a much higher speed. I engrave the lettering before finishing and then run it through the drum sander to get the smoke residue off. If I want a really black mark I laser. sand and then put 2 coats of lacquer on and then apply laser darc without relasering.

From: Nick (KOZASNJZ) [#10]
 5 Apr 2005
To: shari (APPLIK) [#5] 5 Apr 2005

We've been using liquid shoe polish for some time now and it works great. You have to be sure that the wood you're using isn't too soft or else it will seep into the veins of the wood. We only color-fill wood plaques made of walnut, cherry or something of the like, never red alder. Alder is a very soft wood and normally doesn't require color fill like the other plaques do (it's also one of the woods that will soak the polish into the veins of the wood). I can agree with Pete on the unfinished wood, but we've actually never tried it ourselves either.

From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#11]
 5 Apr 2005
To: shari (APPLIK) [#4] 7 Apr 2005

Shari,

Finished, or unfinished, I think?

David "The Stunt Engraver" Lavaneri
DGL Engraving
Port Hueneme, CA

From: Jim (JEARMAN) [#12]
 6 Apr 2005
To: shari (APPLIK) [#1] 7 Apr 2005

Try "Sumi Ink". It is the stuff that is used for Japanese Calligraphy. But the same caution applies as with other inks...very porous wood will absorb ink along the edges.

From: Barbara (RGILE) [#13]
 7 Apr 2005
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#3] 7 Apr 2005

I have also been told that hard floor wax will work. I learned that in a class that I took.
Good luck! all of the suggestions are good. I have used black polish also and it works good if the wood is not soft.

Barbara
RGile Engravers

From: shari (APPLIK) [#14]
 8 Apr 2005
To: Barbara (RGILE) [#13] 12 Apr 2005

Many thanks to all for all the suggestions. I will be trying them all! If I discover something else, I'll be sure to share. I just love this forum. It seems there is nothing someone hasn't already done or tried. You are all great inspiration.
Thanks again,
Shari

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