Full Version: Doming LaserMax
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#4]
1 Jul 2005
To: Ken D. (KDEVORY) [#3] 1 Jul 2005
Ken,
I had a similar occurence with metal plates. In my case, the semi-cured pieces were at the outside reaches of the viable curing area. The plates in the center were fine.
I'm also finding the flexible epoxy takes about 5 min. longer to cure than the rigid.
From: Ken D. (KDEVORY) [#5]
1 Jul 2005
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#4] 1 Jul 2005
I normally set my timer for 15 min, then take it out when I get to it. Those were 15-20 min. I've had some in for an hour. Maybe I should do 25-30 min.
I did not try the rigid epoxy at this size (2"x2.5"), do you think the LaserMax (1/16" thick) would flex popping it? I know it works with 1"x1.5" but not 2.5"x3"
From: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#6]
1 Jul 2005
To: Ken D. (KDEVORY) [#1] 1 Jul 2005
I am not sure why but some materials seem to keep the epoxy from curing. It must react with the material in some way.
I have several types of adhesive backed material that does the same type of thing. The epoxy never cures next to the material.
I use UV cure epoxy and have tried over an hour to cure.
I experimented on a bunch of "waterproof" type papers with adhesive backs. Most do not work because they either absorb part of the epoxy and or dont cure right.
Steve
From: Ken D. (KDEVORY) [#7]
1 Jul 2005
To: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#6] 1 Jul 2005
Steve,
I've experienced that too. Its the UV stabilizer added to the paper. It leaches into the epoxy and "blocks" the UV light. Along those lines, I need to "dry" the printouts from my inkjet printer prior to doming. Again it's the UV stabilizer in the inks.
The current situation seems more hit or miss; unlike some papers, I suspect it's more process oriented. I know LaserMax is UV stable. I'm not fully sure if the alcohol I use to wipe it clean after lasering is leaching some of the UV stabilizer.
This reminds me, I need to order more polyester adhesive paper...
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#8]
1 Jul 2005
To: Ken D. (KDEVORY) [#5] 2 Jul 2005
Ken,
Rigid epoxy will flex to some extent. The epoxy shouldn't break away from the substrate, unless a secure bond was never there from the start.
From: Ken D. (KDEVORY) [#9]
2 Jul 2005
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#8] 2 Jul 2005
The overkill approach with the UV light seems to work. At some point I'll need to better determine the actual time needed.
With the flexible epoxy if I really pick at it I can get an edge to start coming up; once it starts it's easy to peel off. That said, given the deliberate effort required, I don't consider it a problem. Is this consistent with your experience?
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#10]
2 Jul 2005
To: Ken D. (KDEVORY) [#9] 2 Jul 2005
Yes, in my experience, once a good adhesion's been established, it takes a deliberate effort to separate the epoxy from the substrate.
From: Ozzy Fox (CLIVEGARAWAY) [#11]
3 Jul 2006
To: ALL
Try laminating the paper, then cutout the badges, and dome them, it does not leech into the paper that way.
cheers