Full Version: Old School Silverplate Engraving
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#1]
2 Jul 2005
To: ALL
Here's a job I did the other day. It's the back portion of a highly-polished silverplate photo album. Too thick and too large, to fit in most computerized engraving systems, this is a job for my trusty New Hermes GTX Universal.
Holding an item securely in the machine, is the starting point in any engraving operation, regardless of the technology.
Due to the thickness of the photo album, I'm using a standard set of jigs which are traditionally used for holding serving trays etc. The wooden blocks, which can be placed in a variety of positions, make holding the piece quite easy.
Since the photo album is rectangular in shape and I'll need to access the heart-shapes, in the upper-left and lower-right corners of the album, by placing the vise of the pantograph in a horizontal orientation, ample left-to-right movement is guaranteed.
Silver and silverplate items - especially the highly-polished variety - make for a fragile surface. Even the slightest contact can cause an unattractive surface scratch, or worse. For that reason, I place a piece of cloth between the jig and the album itself.
A wedding is a formal occasion and considering the curvy patterns in the album's design, choosing a typeface is easy. A double-line connecting script will fill the bill nicely.
Some engravers prefer to eyeball the positioning of a line. I prefer to have an advance idea of my placement. Making marks directly to the silverplate with a China marker will create light, but permanent marks. For that reason, I use a low-tack painter's tape and a China marker to determine my line positioning. The reason to use low-tack tape is for easy removal. Additionally, if an aggressive adhesive were used, there's a risk of lifting the silverplate off the item. It happens rarely, but it does happen.
For those of you who have never seen a pantograph in action, here's an overview of the process:
On the upper arm of the pantograph, you'll notice marks similar to those on a ruler. They're used to adjust the letter height. The typeface shown at the bottom of the photo is a master template. The size of an engraved character can be adjusted by ratio, from 2:1 (half the size of the master template) to 7:1 (one 7th the size of the master template).
There are corresponding marks on the adjacent arm of the machine. Match the two ratios and you're ready to go!
The left hand controls the upward and downward movement of the non-rotating diamond spindle to the surface of the substrate. The right hand traces the lines of the template. The pattern is traced a number of times, until a consistent depth and width of the engraved characters is achieved. Don't forget to lift the spindle when moving to a new word :-)
Positioning a line of copy in an irregular-shaped area can be a tricky proposition. You can take your best shot and hope for the best, or you can do what I've done here.
By placing a piece of cellophane tape over the engraving area, the image can be lightly engraved onto the tape. Once you're satisfied with the positioning, remove the tape and engrave directly to the item.
Note: Multiple layers of tape may be necessary, until you develop a feel for how much pressure to exert during the practice pass. Keep one edge of the tape folded back, as a removal tab. Why? If you press the entire piece of tape down to the surface, you're in for a difficult and time-consuming task of removing the tape, which may result in scratching the item.
Another consideration; when dealing with fragile surfaces, many silverplate items use a lacquer coating to prevent tarnishing. Engraving will loosen the coating and show up as dust on the surface of the item.
The lacquer dust may also contain minute remnants of metal, which are likely to mar the surface of the item while wiping with a cloth.
Better: If you have shop (compressed) air, blow the dust off the item before wiping the engraved area. When cleaning, use a soft cloth, but don't wipe too vigorously at first. Lightly dust the item with a cloth, before applying much pressure.
At the bottom of the photo, you'll see a polishing cloth. The inside portion of the cloth is treated with a lightly abrasive polishing rouge. The outside portion is a soft cloth, designed for the final cleanup. Such cloths are available from jeweler supply houses and not very expensive. So durable, they even work well, after they appear ready for the trash heap :-)
I can't say there's nothing to it, because you've seen otherwise, though, there's certainly a sense of accomplishment in working with manual equipment.
The fact that very few engravers in your area are capable of engraving such an item, can lead to increased confidence and that other sense of accompli$hment :-)
EDITED: 3 Jul 2005 by DGL
From: sunny (SUNSHINE5555) [#2]
2 Jul 2005
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#1] 2 Jul 2005
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#3]
2 Jul 2005
To: sunny (SUNSHINE5555) [#2] 2 Jul 2005
Thank you Rebecca.
The pictures didn't do the piece justice, but I wanted to show people what the lowly pantographs are capable of.
Basically, almost anything a computerized system can do, and many things some of those systems can't touch.
From: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#4]
2 Jul 2005
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#3] 2 Jul 2005
David,
Nice work, and additionally, I really enjoyed the presentation with the pictures. For visual people, I bet that posting format really struck a positive cord. You may have started something new. You may have just spiked up the market price of those old manual pantographs, too. :D
What is nice is that you were able to post larger pictures by displaying them as a linked image file from your own server, therefore not bucking the 50K limit that we have on images attached to posts on the forum itself.
EDITED: 2 Jul 2005 by DATAKES
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#5]
2 Jul 2005
To: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#4] 2 Jul 2005
Thank you David.
I enjoyed doing what I call my first artutorial (mini-article/tutorial) :-)
I'll keep my digital camera handy, so, as I go about my work I can document some of the procedures and bring them to the forum in this format.
I can't say it's something new. I got the idea from Noel Fields, when he posted the sublimatable crayon piece on his www.dyesubbers.com site.
EDITED: 4 Jul 2005 by DGL
From: Myyk [#6]
3 Jul 2005
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#5] 4 Jul 2005
My Goodness. That is a very ancient typeface. Newer (Well, only 30 years old or so) have connecting lines in 2 places so that lower case "o's" can be joined at the top.
Long time since I used that set, but I'm sure I have a box floating around somewhere.
Great pictures!
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#7]
4 Jul 2005
To: Myyk [#6] 4 Jul 2005
That's OK. That old type made some new money. :-)
From: Rob (AWARDZZ) [#8]
20 Sep 2005
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#7] 20 Sep 2005
Hi David
Just finished reviewing your pantograph engraving "tutorial"... I have an old NewHermes table top model, with an attachment to do pewter mugs, baby cups etc.. I 've figured out how these pieces attach... how does the rotation work for spacing....is it trial and error??? I hate to admit it, sometimes I try to make the font small enuff so I don't have to rotate the item... however with our local "Things Rememberd" in the mall going out of business I know it is only a matter of time before something larger is going to be brought in. Besides my laser rotary attachement this is the only cylindrical device I have, (my computerized engravers are work horses not gift horses).
Any put or andy reading references would be most appreciated..
(GO INDIANS!!! 2.5 games back,,,)
Rob
on the sunny southern shores of Lake Erie
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#9]
20 Sep 2005
To: Rob (AWARDZZ) [#8] 21 Sep 2005
What's necessary, more than anything else, when manually engraving cylindrical objects, is good eyesight.
Center your item in the jig and the mastercopy in your type slide. Engrave the characters at the center-top of the curved surface. Don't go too far over the edge of the curved surface, or the engraved lettering will begin to lean. Taken to an extreme, the effective cutting surface of the 120 degree diamond graver will be exceeded, leading to a "rubbing" of the surface, rather than engraving.
When finished with the centermost characters, loosen the mastercopy and slide the next group (3 or 4, depending on the diameter of the object) of characters, to be engraved, to the center of the type slide.
Place your stylus in part of the previously engraved character (preferrably a vertical line) and use the crank which rotates the item to align the previously engraved character with the tip of the diamond graver. This is called indexing. That's where the good eyesight comes in.
Engrave the next few centermost characters and repeat the process.
It's tedious, to be sure, but considering not many shops perform cylindrical engraving and you have a local Things Remembered closing down, doing this type of work could lead to a reputation for cylindrical engraving, and most importantly, the money to buy a computerized system with cylindrical engraving capability. :-)
EDITED: 23 Nov 2006 by DGL
From: Rob (AWARDZZ) [#10]
21 Sep 2005
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#9] 21 Sep 2005
Good Day David;
Thank you so much for your fast & informative reply... you cleared up my problem... I was not re centering the type line...DOH! & I was getting very frustrated... tonite after closing we'll practice on the "sacrificial" tankard.
I made my faux pas 18 months ago ... I purchased my second computerized engraver without any plans of getting into the "gift" engraving...it was one of those need it now and overnite shipping, kinda panicked.Plus never thought that TR would leave the mall...
but I'm glad they did...
Thanks again. I really appreciate your help and the assistance of this forum. You guys are awesome... (and yes I'd pay to be a member)
Rob
(on the sunny southern shores of lake erie)
From: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#11]
21 Sep 2005
To: Rob (AWARDZZ) [#10] 21 Sep 2005
Bob,
Be prepared. My local Things Remembered (TR) closed and business jumped immediately. I would recommend sending a quick postcard to all of the mall businesses informing them of your business as an alternative for their engraving needs. Former customers of TR will ask surrounding businesses if they moved to a different space in the mall or if they closed. Get your name in front and grab all of these referrals.
From: Rob (AWARDZZ) [#12]
21 Sep 2005
To: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#11] 21 Sep 2005
Thank you for the input....I might of pulled this one off on the right foot. When TR went out , I waited until they were gone, then visited the Hallmark type stores , jewerly etc and dropped off my business cards complete with lasered engraved business card holder with my hours. I stop by once every 2 weeks to replenish the cards.. ( I did not visit the super retailers like Dillards/Pennys but I can see I should.)
I just wish I had of given my last engraver purchase a little more thought..
Oh well....
Have a great day and good business.
Rob
(on the sunny southern shores of Lake Erie)
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#13]
21 Sep 2005
To: Rob (AWARDZZ) [#10] 21 Sep 2005
Thank you for the kind words. We're happy to help.
You're not doing that bad if you only have one sacrificial tankard; unless you plan to donate a new one to science.
You know what they say, "Practice makes you want to get rid of your pantograph." :-)
I frequently use a manual pantograph, for jobs that can't be done in any other way. Believe me; I exhaust all possibilities before I go that route.
Last night, I took photos for another tutorial, which I'll call, "Poor Man's Hand Engraving" which will show, not only the dreaded "Wriggle Block" - a brass typeface designed to imitate the hand-engraved mainstay - but how to arc engrave around the lip of a silverplate bowl. It's not fun, but it works. :-)
When manufacturers name a machine "Gift" it's not descriptive of all the items which can be engraved, which aren't gift-related.
I've always preferred versatility, over table size.
Sounds as if you're in a position to make people forget Things Remembered.
Good luck.
From: rich (RICHD) [#14]
2 Jan 2007
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#1] 2 Jan 2007
David,
I know this is an older post but just wanted to let you know how helpful all the photos were/(are). I'm looking forward to trying my hand at this soon.
I mostly want to be able to mark dials and degree wheels for the home shop tools/accessories I frequently make. I've done a bit of circular dividing on the lathe and milling machine so the pantograph should broaden my options.
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#15]
2 Jan 2007
To: rich (RICHD) [#14] 4 Jan 2007
Rich,
Nothing wrong with reviving an older post. :-)
I enjoy doing the "PicTutorials", as I call them.
If you (or others) have any specific pantograph procedure(s) in mind, I'd be happy to develop some along those lines.
EDITED: 2 Jan 2007 by DGL