Full Version: Old School Silverplate Engraving
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#3]
2 Jul 2005
To: sunny (SUNSHINE5555) [#2] 2 Jul 2005
Thank you Rebecca.
The pictures didn't do the piece justice, but I wanted to show people what the lowly pantographs are capable of.
Basically, almost anything a computerized system can do, and many things some of those systems can't touch.
From: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#4]
2 Jul 2005
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#3] 2 Jul 2005
David,
Nice work, and additionally, I really enjoyed the presentation with the pictures. For visual people, I bet that posting format really struck a positive cord. You may have started something new. You may have just spiked up the market price of those old manual pantographs, too. :D
What is nice is that you were able to post larger pictures by displaying them as a linked image file from your own server, therefore not bucking the 50K limit that we have on images attached to posts on the forum itself.
EDITED: 2 Jul 2005 by DATAKES
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#5]
2 Jul 2005
To: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#4] 2 Jul 2005
Thank you David.
I enjoyed doing what I call my first artutorial (mini-article/tutorial) :-)
I'll keep my digital camera handy, so, as I go about my work I can document some of the procedures and bring them to the forum in this format.
I can't say it's something new. I got the idea from Noel Fields, when he posted the sublimatable crayon piece on his www.dyesubbers.com site.
EDITED: 4 Jul 2005 by DGL
From: Myyk [#6]
3 Jul 2005
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#5] 4 Jul 2005
My Goodness. That is a very ancient typeface. Newer (Well, only 30 years old or so) have connecting lines in 2 places so that lower case "o's" can be joined at the top.
Long time since I used that set, but I'm sure I have a box floating around somewhere.
Great pictures!
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#7]
4 Jul 2005
To: Myyk [#6] 4 Jul 2005
That's OK. That old type made some new money. :-)
From: Rob (AWARDZZ) [#8]
20 Sep 2005
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#7] 20 Sep 2005
Hi David
Just finished reviewing your pantograph engraving "tutorial"... I have an old NewHermes table top model, with an attachment to do pewter mugs, baby cups etc.. I 've figured out how these pieces attach... how does the rotation work for spacing....is it trial and error??? I hate to admit it, sometimes I try to make the font small enuff so I don't have to rotate the item... however with our local "Things Rememberd" in the mall going out of business I know it is only a matter of time before something larger is going to be brought in. Besides my laser rotary attachement this is the only cylindrical device I have, (my computerized engravers are work horses not gift horses).
Any put or andy reading references would be most appreciated..
(GO INDIANS!!! 2.5 games back,,,)
Rob
on the sunny southern shores of Lake Erie
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#9]
20 Sep 2005
To: Rob (AWARDZZ) [#8] 21 Sep 2005
What's necessary, more than anything else, when manually engraving cylindrical objects, is good eyesight.
Center your item in the jig and the mastercopy in your type slide. Engrave the characters at the center-top of the curved surface. Don't go too far over the edge of the curved surface, or the engraved lettering will begin to lean. Taken to an extreme, the effective cutting surface of the 120 degree diamond graver will be exceeded, leading to a "rubbing" of the surface, rather than engraving.
When finished with the centermost characters, loosen the mastercopy and slide the next group (3 or 4, depending on the diameter of the object) of characters, to be engraved, to the center of the type slide.
Place your stylus in part of the previously engraved character (preferrably a vertical line) and use the crank which rotates the item to align the previously engraved character with the tip of the diamond graver. This is called indexing. That's where the good eyesight comes in.
Engrave the next few centermost characters and repeat the process.
It's tedious, to be sure, but considering not many shops perform cylindrical engraving and you have a local Things Remembered closing down, doing this type of work could lead to a reputation for cylindrical engraving, and most importantly, the money to buy a computerized system with cylindrical engraving capability. :-)
EDITED: 23 Nov 2006 by DGL
From: Rob (AWARDZZ) [#10]
21 Sep 2005
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#9] 21 Sep 2005
Good Day David;
Thank you so much for your fast & informative reply... you cleared up my problem... I was not re centering the type line...DOH! & I was getting very frustrated... tonite after closing we'll practice on the "sacrificial" tankard.
I made my faux pas 18 months ago ... I purchased my second computerized engraver without any plans of getting into the "gift" engraving...it was one of those need it now and overnite shipping, kinda panicked.Plus never thought that TR would leave the mall...
but I'm glad they did...
Thanks again. I really appreciate your help and the assistance of this forum. You guys are awesome... (and yes I'd pay to be a member)
Rob
(on the sunny southern shores of lake erie)
From: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#11]
21 Sep 2005
To: Rob (AWARDZZ) [#10] 21 Sep 2005
Bob,
Be prepared. My local Things Remembered (TR) closed and business jumped immediately. I would recommend sending a quick postcard to all of the mall businesses informing them of your business as an alternative for their engraving needs. Former customers of TR will ask surrounding businesses if they moved to a different space in the mall or if they closed. Get your name in front and grab all of these referrals.
From: Rob (AWARDZZ) [#12]
21 Sep 2005
To: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#11] 21 Sep 2005
Thank you for the input....I might of pulled this one off on the right foot. When TR went out , I waited until they were gone, then visited the Hallmark type stores , jewerly etc and dropped off my business cards complete with lasered engraved business card holder with my hours. I stop by once every 2 weeks to replenish the cards.. ( I did not visit the super retailers like Dillards/Pennys but I can see I should.)
I just wish I had of given my last engraver purchase a little more thought..
Oh well....
Have a great day and good business.
Rob
(on the sunny southern shores of Lake Erie)
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#13]
21 Sep 2005
To: Rob (AWARDZZ) [#10] 21 Sep 2005
Thank you for the kind words. We're happy to help.
You're not doing that bad if you only have one sacrificial tankard; unless you plan to donate a new one to science.
You know what they say, "Practice makes you want to get rid of your pantograph." :-)
I frequently use a manual pantograph, for jobs that can't be done in any other way. Believe me; I exhaust all possibilities before I go that route.
Last night, I took photos for another tutorial, which I'll call, "Poor Man's Hand Engraving" which will show, not only the dreaded "Wriggle Block" - a brass typeface designed to imitate the hand-engraved mainstay - but how to arc engrave around the lip of a silverplate bowl. It's not fun, but it works. :-)
When manufacturers name a machine "Gift" it's not descriptive of all the items which can be engraved, which aren't gift-related.
I've always preferred versatility, over table size.
Sounds as if you're in a position to make people forget Things Remembered.
Good luck.
From: rich (RICHD) [#14]
2 Jan 2007
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#1] 2 Jan 2007
David,
I know this is an older post but just wanted to let you know how helpful all the photos were/(are). I'm looking forward to trying my hand at this soon.
I mostly want to be able to mark dials and degree wheels for the home shop tools/accessories I frequently make. I've done a bit of circular dividing on the lathe and milling machine so the pantograph should broaden my options.
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#15]
2 Jan 2007
To: rich (RICHD) [#14] 4 Jan 2007
Rich,
Nothing wrong with reviving an older post. :-)
I enjoy doing the "PicTutorials", as I call them.
If you (or others) have any specific pantograph procedure(s) in mind, I'd be happy to develop some along those lines.
EDITED: 2 Jan 2007 by DGL