Full Version: Cutter info inquiry
From: basehorawards [#1]
4 Jul 2005
To: ALL
I am the proud new owner of a barely used Xenetech XOT13x13 having bought a company that started and stopped in a very short period of time. I have had an Epilog laser for a year now and am pretty comfortable with what it will do and how to make it do it but the rotary is a 'whole nudder beast.'
Reading the manual I decided to zero the cutters. Problem is I can not find an allen wrench in the box or in either of my sets (mm and standard (US)) that will fit and loosen the set screw on the brass knob. Is it a special wrench? I see JDS sells one for $7.60 but I hate to spend that much for a standard wrench.
Also have another question that should probably be a poll. Do you use the vaccum attachment or do you just let the shavings fly and clean up later?
Thanks in advance,
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#2]
4 Jul 2005
To: basehorawards [#1] 5 Jul 2005
If you have a set of mini-screwdrivers, the kind used for eyeglass repairs, one of the sizes may work as a "Spline Wrench" which is the name of the cutter adjustment tool.
I bought a couple from Quality One Engravers, I think they were $5.00 ea.
While engraving plastics, I use a vacuum chip remover whenever possible. Occasionally, a slightly rounded item will mean that I have to use a nose-cone which can't be used with the vacuum.
From: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#3]
4 Jul 2005
To: basehorawards [#1] 5 Jul 2005
James,
Congratulations on your new machine. It will serve your needs very well.
I use my vacuum chip collector any time I am routing material. My system also came with a vacuum table to hold materials down, but from day one, I have used a tacki-mat to hold my flat materials in position during engraving. I am still using that original mat over four years later. It is showing some battle scars, but keeps on grabbin'.
From: BrianC (INKSQUIRTER) [#4]
5 Jul 2005
To: basehorawards [#1] 5 Jul 2005
There is also much less chance of chips getting into the lead screws. It's well worth the investment.
brian
From: basehorawards [#5]
5 Jul 2005
To: BrianC (INKSQUIRTER) [#4] 6 Jul 2005
Brian,
My machine came with the vaccum nose cone so luckily I do not have to buy one. I was having a problem with the shavings getting under the nose cone even with the vaccum. I have turned the pressure way down and have had much better looking results.
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#6]
5 Jul 2005
To: basehorawards [#5] 6 Jul 2005
I do not understand this. The Ghast Regenerative Blower used for the Quiet Vacs work best with maximum suck from my experience.
From: PenTrophy (PENINSULATROPHY) [#7]
5 Jul 2005
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#6] 6 Jul 2005
I bet he is refering to nose pressure. not the negative pressure created from the vacuum sucking the cut plastic. A relief from Ghosting.
Mark
From: basehorawards [#8]
6 Jul 2005
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#6] 6 Jul 2005
Harvey,
Mark is correct. I have turned down the nose pressure. I have gotten where I can engrave on painted brass without ghosting most of the time. I still have trouble with painted brass for lasers because the paint is softer(?) The only reason I am using that is I have a perpetual plaque with laser plates that has been rotary engraved for the last 12 years.
Rotary machines have a steeper learning curve than lasers. I may need new climbing boots.
From: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#9]
6 Jul 2005
To: basehorawards [#8] 6 Jul 2005
James,
On any kind of painted brass, when using a computerized mechanical engraver, I tend to get a more positive response from my customers when I use a rotating burnishing cutter with a floater attachment. The attachment creates pressure that is much lighter, therefore primarilly removing just the paint.
I purchased my floating attachment from Quality One Engravers. They have a new catalog out. You can look see it in pdf format on their website at http://www.q1engravers.com.
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#10]
6 Jul 2005
To: ALL
Of course, diamond burnishers do a great job on coated-brass plates as well.
Diamond burnishers cost upwards of $40-$50 but seemingly last forever.
From: basehorawards [#11]
6 Jul 2005
To: ALL
As I said. A steep learning curve.
How can I tell just by looking whether a cutter is for metal or plastic. Some of them are marked flx so I know that they are for plastic but some are not marked. One is marked PROF and has a .020 tip. I have been reading a lot of information but have not come across that one.
I downloaded the catalog from Quality 1 Engravers to look at it too.
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#12]
6 Jul 2005
To: basehorawards [#8] 6 Jul 2005
Aha. The spindle pressure on my machine is generally set to minimum. For my work nothing more is needed. I make sure to keep the X-Y speed low enough to not get *any* float at that setting. I feel that If the depth of cut varies I am pushing the cutter beyond the limits of a clear cut. (You really have to push the X-Y speed to do that.) My default speed is 2" per second except on large bits and metals. Routing metals I use about .7" per second on small bits and less on over .040. It gives a really clean cut.
The big exception is aluminum. That usually needs more care. Max spindle speed, shallow cuts, .003 per pass and less if you are going deep. Even then you will get scratching, (shadows), on paint or plastic that follows that job. The solution is to engrave a pair, (sometimes more), of 3lRoman M's about 4" tall, with no bit, on the back of a piece of melamine. The aluminum chips stick to the bottom of the nose, (aluminum is funny that way). Rubbing it on the melamine wears off the minuscule chips that attach to the nose and do virtually no wear to the nose itself.
You would not want to engrave a license plate then do an acrylic piece without a cleaning of the nose. (License plates I usually engrave between .003 and .004, depending on the paint thickness. I believe that I am taking only about .001 of the aluminum off the plate.)
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#13]
6 Jul 2005
To: basehorawards [#11] 6 Jul 2005
Carbide cutters dominate the cutter market, though, HSS (high speed steel) are sometimes used.
What differentiates a plastic cutter, from an acrylic cutter, to a cutter designated for metal is the grind.
Various angles and back clearances give the cutter the strength or best cutting properties for a particular substrate.
EDITED: 6 Jul 2005 by DGL
From: logojohn [#14]
6 Jul 2005
To: basehorawards [#11] 6 Jul 2005
It is used for cutting out plastic badges or anything you have an outline of.
It is basically the same as a flx cutter but it has a steeper angle. It produces a nice beveled edge on any shape cut out. A regular flx cutter is to wide of an angle for profiling especially for intricate shapes. I even use it to cut 1/8 inch stock for signs and custom size photo plex covers.
I find it less problematic cutting badge blanks on the rotary and then lasering them. There is no gumming, melting or cleanup needed. We round the corners on most badges over 1x3 and you can't get a round corner bevel with a $2000 safety saw and $300 beveler. I have a beveler but not the saw.
Here are a few samples. I took clip art and engraved the interior lines and used the outside line as the cutout.
You need to put a sacrifice sheet on your table to avoid cutting it. Set the profile cutter deep enough to just barely cut though the plastic.
The pieces will move as they are cut out. I usually cut out 12 x 24 sheets at one time. I put a strip of paper trophy tape or engraving table tape across the whole bottom and about a 3 inch strip in the upper right corner. This stops the whole sheet from moving during cutting. The xenetech does not have much pull so you just have to apply a little downward pressure on the cut out piece as the cutout is finished.
From: PenTrophy (PENINSULATROPHY) [#15]
6 Jul 2005
To: basehorawards [#11] 6 Jul 2005
Ask and yeeeeee shall receive.
All you wanted to know about cutters from the experts.
http://www.antaresinc.net/2004EngFactAnatomy.html
Mark
I do sharpening if you need assistance in that area!
From: basehorawards [#16]
6 Jul 2005
To: logojohn [#14] 6 Jul 2005
So when you cut on the rotary and then laser do you leave them stuck on the sacrafice sheet and then laser them or do you laser them one at a time?
I am liking this machine more every day.
From: basehorawards [#17]
6 Jul 2005
To: PenTrophy (PENINSULATROPHY) [#15] 6 Jul 2005
Mark,
That is a great site. So much to learn and so many good people willing to help. Is this a great place or what!
From: logojohn [#18]
6 Jul 2005
To: basehorawards [#16] 7 Jul 2005
I tried moving the whole thing to the laser at the beginning but since the machines are just a little different , it creates problems. More so the home position than the actual measurement.
I lasered a grid on a piece of colored laser steel layed in the laser.
This helps in the placement. I have also added .03 to the measurements I cut on the rotary so they come out exactly for easier placement on the grid. I can just butt them up next to each other.
The laser steel also comes in handy. I put some magnetic strips on a variety of different blocks and jigs. If a unlevel item needs to be stablized or leveled I can just place a magnetic block down.
Here is a layout sample of the grid from the archive.
Here is a picture of it holding some acrylic paperweights but it works the same for the badges. It helps when things aren't an exact measurement. You can just center between the lines coresponding to your layout.
EDITED: 6 Jul 2005 by JOHNFISH
From: basehorawards [#19]
7 Jul 2005
To: logojohn [#18] 7 Jul 2005
The grid is a great idea. I am going to have to make one of them.
Another thing I have been meaning to make is 1/4" or 1/2" thick rulers with magnetic strips on the bottom for when I am cutting acrylic and need to put it on risers that take it above the thin rules on the machine. I just have not taken the time yet as I spend most of my day now druming up business.
I have made jigs from acrylic with holes of different sizes to put plates in and have templates in Corel where I put the information to be lasered. The blanks are all the same size with the hole centered. I lasered the size right onto the arylic and have them hung on a hook right above the laser. This seems to work pretty good for small runs as the jig stays put and I just drop in a new plate each time. I can see where the grid would be much faster on a bigger run as I could laser several plates at a once.