Full Version: Cutter info inquiry
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#13]
6 Jul 2005
To: basehorawards [#11] 6 Jul 2005
Carbide cutters dominate the cutter market, though, HSS (high speed steel) are sometimes used.
What differentiates a plastic cutter, from an acrylic cutter, to a cutter designated for metal is the grind.
Various angles and back clearances give the cutter the strength or best cutting properties for a particular substrate.
EDITED: 6 Jul 2005 by DGL
From: logojohn [#14]
6 Jul 2005
To: basehorawards [#11] 6 Jul 2005
It is used for cutting out plastic badges or anything you have an outline of.
It is basically the same as a flx cutter but it has a steeper angle. It produces a nice beveled edge on any shape cut out. A regular flx cutter is to wide of an angle for profiling especially for intricate shapes. I even use it to cut 1/8 inch stock for signs and custom size photo plex covers.
I find it less problematic cutting badge blanks on the rotary and then lasering them. There is no gumming, melting or cleanup needed. We round the corners on most badges over 1x3 and you can't get a round corner bevel with a $2000 safety saw and $300 beveler. I have a beveler but not the saw.
Here are a few samples. I took clip art and engraved the interior lines and used the outside line as the cutout.
You need to put a sacrifice sheet on your table to avoid cutting it. Set the profile cutter deep enough to just barely cut though the plastic.
The pieces will move as they are cut out. I usually cut out 12 x 24 sheets at one time. I put a strip of paper trophy tape or engraving table tape across the whole bottom and about a 3 inch strip in the upper right corner. This stops the whole sheet from moving during cutting. The xenetech does not have much pull so you just have to apply a little downward pressure on the cut out piece as the cutout is finished.
From: PenTrophy (PENINSULATROPHY) [#15]
6 Jul 2005
To: basehorawards [#11] 6 Jul 2005
Ask and yeeeeee shall receive.
All you wanted to know about cutters from the experts.
http://www.antaresinc.net/2004EngFactAnatomy.html
Mark
I do sharpening if you need assistance in that area!
From: basehorawards [#16]
6 Jul 2005
To: logojohn [#14] 6 Jul 2005
So when you cut on the rotary and then laser do you leave them stuck on the sacrafice sheet and then laser them or do you laser them one at a time?
I am liking this machine more every day.
From: basehorawards [#17]
6 Jul 2005
To: PenTrophy (PENINSULATROPHY) [#15] 6 Jul 2005
Mark,
That is a great site. So much to learn and so many good people willing to help. Is this a great place or what!
From: logojohn [#18]
6 Jul 2005
To: basehorawards [#16] 7 Jul 2005
I tried moving the whole thing to the laser at the beginning but since the machines are just a little different , it creates problems. More so the home position than the actual measurement.
I lasered a grid on a piece of colored laser steel layed in the laser.
This helps in the placement. I have also added .03 to the measurements I cut on the rotary so they come out exactly for easier placement on the grid. I can just butt them up next to each other.
The laser steel also comes in handy. I put some magnetic strips on a variety of different blocks and jigs. If a unlevel item needs to be stablized or leveled I can just place a magnetic block down.
Here is a layout sample of the grid from the archive.
Here is a picture of it holding some acrylic paperweights but it works the same for the badges. It helps when things aren't an exact measurement. You can just center between the lines coresponding to your layout.
EDITED: 6 Jul 2005 by JOHNFISH
From: basehorawards [#19]
7 Jul 2005
To: logojohn [#18] 7 Jul 2005
The grid is a great idea. I am going to have to make one of them.
Another thing I have been meaning to make is 1/4" or 1/2" thick rulers with magnetic strips on the bottom for when I am cutting acrylic and need to put it on risers that take it above the thin rules on the machine. I just have not taken the time yet as I spend most of my day now druming up business.
I have made jigs from acrylic with holes of different sizes to put plates in and have templates in Corel where I put the information to be lasered. The blanks are all the same size with the hole centered. I lasered the size right onto the arylic and have them hung on a hook right above the laser. This seems to work pretty good for small runs as the jig stays put and I just drop in a new plate each time. I can see where the grid would be much faster on a bigger run as I could laser several plates at a once.