Full Version: Epoxy Domed Namebadge
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#1]
3 Aug 2004
To: Zonas 4 Aug 2004
Zona,
As advertised, I'm posting a pic of a sublimated metal namebadge with an epoxy dome. The badge on the left has no dome. The badge on the right is epoxy domed.
The reason I've never posted a picture such as this before, is because it's very difficult to discern the dome in a photo. In person, the difference is very noticeable.
Edit: The colors in the uploaded photo do no justice to the actual colors of the image.
David "The Stunt Engraver" Lavaneri
DGL Engraving
Port Hueneme, CA
EDITED: 3 Aug 2004 by DGL
From: Zonas [#2]
4 Aug 2004
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#1] 4 Aug 2004
Since I dome also, I knew what I was looking for. Thanks for doing the side by side. Have you had any problems with customers complaining the dome 'comes off'?
Zona
Zona's Engraved Creations
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#3]
4 Aug 2004
To: Zonas [#2] 4 Aug 2004
Zona,
I've only seen the dome delaminate when the epoxy hasn't completely cured. I use single part rigid UV cure epoxy.
David "The Stunt Engraver" Lavaneri
DGL Engraving
Port Hueneme, CA
From: Zonas [#4]
4 Aug 2004
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#3] 4 Aug 2004
The same epoxy that came with Terry's ultra domer? I was thinking we had the same doming unit (style at least since we don't share long distance ;)
Zona
From: Birdman (TBIRD1957) [#5]
4 Aug 2004
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#1] 4 Aug 2004
TJ
From: Betty [#6]
4 Aug 2004
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#1] 4 Aug 2004
Do you prefer the sublimated metal over the sublimated Unisub for making name tags?
If so, why? I am getting ready to do a bunch of these.
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#7]
4 Aug 2004
To: Zonas [#4] 4 Aug 2004
Zona,
It's the same epoxy that Terry supplied, except I got my last batch from Coast Graphic Supply in Ventura, CA.
David "The Stunt Engraver" Lavaneri
DGL Engraving
Port Hueneme, CA
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#8]
4 Aug 2004
To: Betty [#6] 5 Aug 2004
Betty,
I prefer sublimated metal namebadges for a number of reasons.
I can cut custom sizes with a metal shear and round the corners with a 3-in-1 Maxi Press. Make sure you round the corners. Otherwise, you're creating a weapon :-)
Unisub offers a set number of stock sizes.
I use FRP if I'll be creating custom size ovals, by milling them out on my computerized engraving system.
No warping with metal badges. They're lighter weight, which is a selling point.
I've sold a lot of metal badges without the dome. Some people think the badges will bend, but I haven't seen, or heard, of that being an issue.
If so, adding the epoxy dome gives the badge ample rigidity, not to mention a much "slicker" look.
Put the domed badge in a frame and you've got the ultimate. The inserts don't necessarily have to be sublimated. I've seen gorgeous namebadges made by lasering Rowmark "FlexiBrass" material and doming. The marbleized blue with gold letters is the "bomb."
A good thing, according to my teenage daughter :-)
David "The Stunt Engraver" Lavaneri
DGL Engraving
Port Hueneme, CA
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#9]
4 Aug 2004
To: ALL
I can't believe I forgot to mention one of the most important reasons I prefer metal namebadges over Unisub (FRP) badges.
Unisub products come in one color - White.
Using inexpensive gold and silver alum. not only offers more latitude in design, but the reflective qualities of gold and silver metal create a "candy apple" effect, which is very desireable.
Of course, Unisub (white, the only color offered) alum. does an admirable job when a white background or a more opaque image is in order.
David "The Stunt Engraver" Lavaneri
DGL Engraving
Port Hueneme, CA
From: Myyk [#10]
4 Aug 2004
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#9] 5 Aug 2004
I have been doming namebadges for about 6-7 years, including sublimated & print n seal ones. For sublimated, I prefer gold or silver and for white or coloured background I use the print and seal method (Epson C80) then apply the resulting stickers to anodised or coated aluminium sheet or plastic blanks
I have experimented with different resins, but choice is limited in our country and have now settled on Aristocrat resin for Sublimation and a cheaper very clear Australian product for Print n Seal.
I find that if I use any other than the acid free Aristocrat resin (2 pot) for sublimated metal badges, the resin seems to eat into the polyester coating on the metal and the sublimation ink bleeds over time. The end result is that the badge gradually becomes unreadable.
Before I bought the print n seal system, I used an Epson 600 to reverse print on Inkjet OHP film, then layed signwriter's vinyl film of the required colour over the results, finishing off with a layer of self adhesive tape. Unfortunately the OHP manufacturers changed their film and the newer formulation did not give as good a result in colour fastness. If Backprint film was available at an economic price locally, that may have worked better. I still use this method for some work, usually on dull sheen gold or silver vinyl. I used to get excellent results with my Alps MD1000 (which could print silver, gold or white) on Copier OHP, but I have had to pension it off as it is getting quite sad and cartridges are very difficult to obtain.
The ultimate tool for this work would be something like a Roland Color Camm, but the relatively small number of badges I produce could not justify the outlay. (I wish)
I would be interested to know how others set their resin coating up, so that there is no run off.