Full Version: New to Sublimation

From: tony (TONY310) [#1]
 7 Nov 2005
To: ALL

Hi everyone. I've been doing laser engraving for about a year and a half. I want to get into sublimation but am not sure about what I really need to get started. I can get a lot more business from a customer of mine that I engrave company logos on their custom corporate gifts.
I miss out on alot of jobs because I can't do color with my laser. Any advice on products and pricing would be appreciated. I have a pretty good knowledge of corel draw 12. Is this also used for sublimation?
Any help is appreciated.
Tony

EDITED: 7 Nov 2005 by DGL


From: BrianC (INKSQUIRTER) [#2]
 7 Nov 2005
To: tony (TONY310) [#1] 7 Nov 2005

Tony,

Check out www.dyesub.org to get your sublimation information. Many of the participants on this forum also frequent there as well.

brian


From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#3]
 7 Nov 2005
To: tony (TONY310) [#1] 7 Nov 2005

Tony,

Corel Draw and Photo Paint will probably be your main programs. Adobe Illustrator and Photoshop are the other mainstays.

The fact, you have a background in Corel will help, but introducng color to your work will be a whole new learning curve.

If you'll never print transfers larger than 8.5 x 11 (14) you can get started with a small format Epson desk top printer.

Most sublimation suppliers offer a start up packages, including printer, ink, transfer paper and variety of substrates. A heat press, or heat presses, depending on the items you'll print, will be an additional expense.

As Brian says, www.dyesub.org and its accompanying forum (DSSI) located under our "Links of Interest' pull down menu, is the hotbed of activity for the dyesub industry.

From: logojohn [#4]
 8 Nov 2005
To: tony (TONY310) [#1] 22 Nov 2005

We are just wading into sublimation to. The biggest pain so far has been trying to match colors. It is virtually impossible to do an exact pms color match as in a logo. I am even wasting a lot of product just trying to get close on some things. The differences of white on mugs, sub plasitc and metal even seems to affect the color shade since the colors are transparent. I am planning to make samples of what colors look like on different things when time permits.

You can get started fairly cheaply compared to other processes.

The corel draw or paint for bmp images should do most of what you need for sublimation.

We got a "hobby brand" small heat press discussed in another thread for a few hundred dollars.

A c-86 epson printer was on sale at the office store for $25 after rebates last week and normal price is under $100
We had clogging trouble using a printer that had regular ink in it first and none with the 2 we bought new and only installed sublimation ink.

A set of ink cartridges is between 3 and 4 hundred dollars.

Then what ever sheet stock and products you want to try.

The sublimation has been useful for prototypes, small runs and short deadlines. However for long runs with enough time are much cheaper to order from an asi or similar supplier and they can do exact pms color match on most items.

From: Michael [#5]
 10 Nov 2005
To: logojohn [#4] 10 Nov 2005

PMS color chips are printed on paper with a specific brightness from a specific press/process. Any other printer/ink/process will not get an exact color match. Quite often, getting within two chips is considered an excellent match.

With all that in mind, you can get close with inkjet dyesublimation. It takes some time to match your inks and color profile to the chips in your PMS book. Each substrate reflects differently (as do inks and dyes) from others and from coated or uncoated paper, which is the standard used by Pantone. Just continue on with your plan and print samples until you are happy with the match.

Fisher Textiles sells 15" x 15" squares of Softlink which are great for samples and testing, but cutting up a Softlink T shirt is a less expensive way to go.

If you'd like more info or help on colors and color matching, check out www.pantone.com.

Hope this helps.


From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#6]
 15 Nov 2005
To: tony (TONY310) [#1] 22 Nov 2005

Tony,

You said:
quote:
I miss out on alot of jobs because I can't do color with my laser.


That sounds as if you have a tangible example of losing a few jobs to companies with full-color capability.

Do you know specifically, which product or process edged you out?

From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#7]
 20 Nov 2005
To: tony (TONY310) [#1] 22 Nov 2005

Tony,

Besides dyesub.org, another source that helped me when I was researching color sublimation was www.alphasupply.com.
They have several tutorials that I found informative, and the folks that own it were very helpful on the phone, even though they knew at the time I was not going to buy.
It sounds as if you will have a lot of additional work should you make the leap to sublimation. I have a philosophy when it comes to tools.

Don't buy cheap tools, and buy more than you need then grow into it.

Were I going to make the leap what I finally decided upon was the Epson 4000 printer. It is a workhorse and when bought as a package with the GeoKnight 1620 press, and supplies is not really that expensive. ( The reason I have not made the leap by the way is because I am still getting my business off the ground and do not have a large enough customer base to warrant it yet.)

You will find two players in the "ink" market. Sawgrass technologies and Artanium inks. Essentially both are the same, but what I learned in asking around and reading is that for a beginner, sawgrass is the better way to go becuase of support and color correction issues.

By no means I am I an expert, but I have been looking into sublimatin for about a year now and those are just some of the things I have found out.

I hope this has been of some small help , and good luck in your endeavors.


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