Full Version: Is This the Only Way? (Acrylic Bonding)
From: Zak [#1]
17 Nov 2005
To: ALL
To All,
As quite a few of these threads start, I am new to engraving.
My dilemma is attaching two piece acrylic awards. We are now using locktite very sparingly, which is holding. Our concern is that you get glue spread dots that look rather ugly. We have explored different ways of applicating, but keep running into the same problem.
Is this just the way it is... or is there a solution.
all help is appreciated.
Thank you in advance!
EDITED: 17 Nov 2005 by DGL
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#2]
17 Nov 2005
To: Zak [#1] 17 Nov 2005
Zak,
Most often, a bonding agent, Methyl (something or other), sold by acrylic award suppliers and plastics houses is used.
The bonding agent is very evaporative, making "surgical" application of the liquid largely unnecessary.
Depending on how well (flat) the two surfaces line up, it's possible to make a seamless bond, but in my experience, it's difficult to avoid small areas where air may be trapped. Not very noticeable, but there.
The bonding agent fuses the two pieces together, so strongly, that trying to separate the pieces may result in breaking the acrylic pieces themselves, before the bond itself would ever be broken.
EDITED: 17 Nov 2005 by DGL
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#3]
17 Nov 2005
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#2] 17 Nov 2005
Zak,
Here's another thread which addresses your question.
http://www.engravingetc.org/forum/index.php?webtag=EE&msg=798.1
Edit: Oops! Thought I posted to Zak. Hopefully, he'll see this message.
EDITED: 17 Nov 2005 by DGL
From: Dee (DEENA-ONLY) [#4]
17 Nov 2005
To: Zak [#1] 17 Nov 2005
The name if the product we use is Rez-n-Bond. It is available from most acrylic wholesalers. You can also order a similar solution from Acrylic Idea Factory. They work as described in the previous post. Just be careful to put the cap back on tightly as they evaporate very quickly.
Dee
From: UCONN Dave & Lynn too (DANDL48) [#5]
17 Nov 2005
To: Zak [#1] 17 Nov 2005
From: Zak [#6]
17 Nov 2005
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#3] 17 Nov 2005
Thank you for all of the advice.
I own and have tried Acrylic Cement from Acrylic Idea Factory. It did not work for us, but I will give it another shot. It did not seem to hold well.
The link you gave had a lot of information and I look forward to trying some of the techniques in the thread.
Thank you again to everyone for all of the help.
I am sure I will be sending many more questions in the future.
From: logojohn [#7]
17 Nov 2005
To: Zak [#1] 17 Nov 2005
Place the acrylic where you want it on the base.
Very slightly tilt it up along a long side very slightly . . . not much more than the thickness of a sheet of paper.
Apply the solvent along the lifted edge and the solvent will automatically draw itself under the piece.
Keep applying until it covers the whole area. Don't be afraid to apply liberally. The excess will evaporate. Do not attempt to wipe up excess, that will leave a mark. Just leave it sit and when it evaporates you won't see it.
If there are a few bubbles, you can rock it back and forth a little, tilting it back a little for a few seconds. If it starts drying out add more solvent.
I tried the syringes and squeeze bottles with a needle. They tend to gum up a lot and are hard to control. I have swithed to a plain eye dropper.
It has a wide opening so it takes a little getting used to. It will all come out quickly so don't load up more than you will need.
It takes a little practice since you really need a third hand. With the solvent applied the piece will slide around easily so be prepared to hold it still.
From: Zak [#8]
17 Nov 2005
To: logojohn [#7] 17 Nov 2005
Logojohn,
Thank you so much for the advice. I will give it a shot.
Have you used the acrylic cement from acrylic idea factory?
From: logojohn [#9]
17 Nov 2005
To: Zak [#8] 19 Nov 2005
I think it is the weld on 4 though.
We get some acrylic idea acrylics through Plastics Plus in Houston since they are only 1 day delivery. I could never get Acrylic Idea to send me a catalog so I just forgot about them since they are to far away shipping time-wise anyway.
.
From: RALLYGUY (RALLYGUY1) [#10]
18 Nov 2005
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#2] 19 Nov 2005
It's called Methelene Chloride.....The same thing that is in many of the good old fashioned paint strippers....pretty nasty stuff. They have added all kinds of regulations in the last 10 years on the stuff, so even many of the paint strippers have removed it. It is also used straight up as a plastisol remover for shooting out errors in t-shirts. Again they have several new "safe" solvents, but they never work quite as well as the original do they ;)
Hope this helps,
Brian G.
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#11]
19 Nov 2005
To: RALLYGUY (RALLYGUY1) [#10] 19 Nov 2005
Many years ago, because of Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) laws in California, the formulas of automobile paint were changed.
Paint jobs were never the same, with respect to longevity and lustre of finish.
In fact, at the time, I was told, "If you want a good paint job, go to Arizona" where the rigid CA standards didn't apply.
Don't know if that's still the case. I doubt it.
From: Zak [#12]
19 Nov 2005
To: ALL
Sorry it took me so long to say thanks. I have been out of work a couple of days.
I appreciate all of the suggestions and have already found success.
Thanks again.
Zak
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#13]
19 Nov 2005
To: Zak [#12] 19 Nov 2005
We're happy to help and we love a happy ending. :-)