Full Version: Holding down light materials

From: Lynn (LYNNDENO) [#1]
 27 Aug 2004
To: ALL

Good morning All,
As Ive said on another thread I am just starting to work and experiment with different things on my laser. The one thing I had trouble with yesterday was
that I was tring to lase the laser lights, you know those sheets that have the adhesive on back that you make labels with. Well the draft keep blowing up the edges. Question does anyone have any tips or tricks to keep it flat on the table? Also is the fat mat anything that would help?

Thanks

From: James (TILER02) [#2]
 27 Aug 2004
To: Lynn (LYNNDENO) [#1] 27 Aug 2004

If I am working with something like that, I do not turn on my blower. If I do use the blower I will lay some metal rods along the edges.
I tried to use a sticky mat, but the sticky did not last.

From: precisionlaser [#3]
 27 Aug 2004
To: Lynn (LYNNDENO) [#1] 27 Aug 2004

Lynn,

We just went out and bought a roll of Scotch Removeable Adhesive Tape. We just take a small piece and tape down the corners. Cheap, effective and easy.

Mark

From: JHayes55 [#4]
 27 Aug 2004
To: Lynn (LYNNDENO) [#1] 27 Aug 2004

Lyn We use different methods depending on what we are lasering. I use mulit-mat on some items and tape on some. You can also put a sheet of steel in the bed and use magnet strips. The trick most often used in our shop is kids modeling clay, (Play- Doh) - flexible, easy to mold in shape that hold down best, can change size easy for large to small items and if you happen to hit with the laser beam there is not any damage to anything. We use it to prop up odd shape items and hold them in place as well as holding down thin light materials. I bought some generic clay 2 years ago and were still using it. Hope that helps. Joe

From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#5]
 27 Aug 2004
To: JHayes55 [#4] 28 Aug 2004

The Play-Do can be used to make molds also, haven't needed to yet but there is no reason it will not work. I am not sure but I think it will not shrink when it dries out and hardens, I will have to try that some day and find out.

If I remember it can be made out of 50% flour and 50% salt, with enough water to get that puttylike consistency.

Next time I pass an air conditioning duct place I have been planning to get some 22 gauge, (or 18 gauge), duct metal to use for a magnetic base in my laser. It is tin plated steel so it should work well and not rust and if you find the right place it is incredibly cheap.

 

From: John (ICTJOHN) [#6]
 27 Aug 2004
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#5] 27 Aug 2004

Harvey & all,

I keep a supply of Black Brass Plated Steel engraving stock, turn it over and use the back side when you want to use it with magnets to hold down your work and you don't ruin the face so you can still use it in production. They run from $5.60 down to $3.50 depending on quantity.

btw, the brass plated steel works real well for lasering and costs less too, it is .015 thick instead of the normal .020

 

From: ARAMember [#7]
 28 Aug 2004
To: John (ICTJOHN) [#6] 28 Aug 2004

GREAT IDEA!

Thanks!


Justin

BTW, the answer.....be it expensive.....is a vacumme table. It works like a charm.

The Brass steel idea is the best I've heard so far.

 

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