Full Version: Etched Gradients
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#1]
16 Dec 2005
To: ALL
Yesterday, I received a request to etch a corporate logo on some crystal vases. "No problem," I thought.
The logo included a gradient, made to mimick searchlights, pointing toward the sky. Dark, at the bottom of the "V" shaped image and fading toward the top.
Is it possible to create this effect, "consistently," from piece to piece?
I have a very talented person, who will do the etching and I'm sure he'll know the answer, but I won't be able to contact him for a few hours.
Just thought I'd run the question past this knowledgable group. :-)
Thanks,
EDITED: 16 Dec 2005 by DGL
From: sawdr73 [#2]
16 Dec 2005
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#1] 16 Dec 2005
David,
I don't do much gradient work but what I have done does not seem to present a problem to me. I would guess it would depend on how consistant your printer is when printing the artwork. My Epson 980 seems to be very consistant, as does my Epson 3000. Also, the material that you print on may have some effect on the outcome of the print for exposure. I went to Photobrasive in Deluth, Minn. last year and while there tried out their Rapidmask HD II film and was very pleased with the outcome. I don't know what resist your friend uses but I'm sure he will be able to reproduce the work to your satisfaction. If I have learned anything frjom this forum, it is how exacting your work is and I feel confident that anyone you have chosen to represent you will be just a good at what they do as you are at yours. I expect you will not be disappointed. Relax and collect your fee with confidence! B-)
Mickey
From: Shaddy [#3]
16 Dec 2005
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#1] 16 Dec 2005
hmmmmm
could you laser that portion and dither, then sandblast the rest? Might have to laser whole thing, cover the spotlight with a mask, then blast the rest of the image.
not sure if the shape/size of the vase would allow that.
I'm trying my best to be Stunt-y ;-)
Shaddy
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#4]
16 Dec 2005
To: sawdr73 [#2] 16 Dec 2005
Mickey,
My "Stunt Etcher" says it can be done, but not with the film he uses. Fortunately, the customer isn't shooting for perfection - excellence will be good enough. :-)
As usual, this is a corporate account and getting the job done in a hurry, will superceed their desire to see a carbon-copy-match of the logo.
Thanks for the input Mickey. I appreciate it.
EDITED: 16 Dec 2005 by DGL
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#5]
16 Dec 2005
To: Shaddy [#3] 16 Dec 2005
And an excellent job you're doing. :-)
Sounds like that may work.
This is a "Drive-Thru" rush job and I don't have time to super-size it. :-)
EDITED: 16 Dec 2005 by DGL
From: sawdr73 [#6]
16 Dec 2005
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#4] 17 Dec 2005
David,
Maybe your friend needs to consider raising the bar for his competition. (devil) I failed to mention that the Rapidmask HD II was designed for just this kind of job. It really holds the little dots very well when blasting and needs no washout time. I'm sure your friend has chosen a resist that serves him well. My "south Texas" connection refuses to use anything but Raysist. I find Raysist to be very effective also. I use the HD II because I haven't got a place in my shop for washing out the developed resist.
I'm sure your friend will do an excellant job or you would not have chosen him. Post a picture if you can. We would love to see it
Mickey
From: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#7]
16 Dec 2005
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#1] 17 Dec 2005
David,
This look can be accomplished very nicely with light progressive shading, but the consistency from piece to piece will only be as good as the person behind the blasting nozzle. This is the same process that would be required to etch the Engraving Etc. logo into glass. You see the gradient section of the logo under the "V"?
From: sawdr73 [#8]
17 Dec 2005
To: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#7] 17 Dec 2005
David (TakesMo),
I think you are right on with the shading effect, especially for simulating the light. That would give the graphic a more "realistic" effect. However, with the time frame and quantity, the gradient would be more cost effective, for me. I love doing the shading. It just seems to give "life" to a lot of graphics that otherwise would just "be there".
I hope David will be able to post a pic for us, and maybe we'll be pleasantly surprised to see shading. David's level of work seems to meet the old addage,"Water seeks it's own level". That said, I expect his sandblast friend is top notch! :D
Mickey
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#9]
17 Dec 2005
To: sawdr73 [#6] 17 Dec 2005
What's the shelf life of the HD II masking material?
I suspect my friend has such a rare call for this type of job, that he feels the masking material may go around the bend before he makes enough money to justify the expense.
I'll talk to him about it.
Thanks again.
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#10]
17 Dec 2005
To: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#7] 17 Dec 2005
Ahh, light progressive shading. I didn't know what the term was, but I figured a skillfull person could perform some manual feathering of the gradient.
I felt bad enough about hitting my friend up with a panic rush, at this time of year, so I figured, whatever he's comfortable with, will have to do.
Fortunately, my customer regards me as a person who will ensure a very professional job and defers to my judgement.
We all need more customers like that. :-)
EDITED: 17 Dec 2005 by DGL
From: sawdr73 [#11]
17 Dec 2005
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#9] 17 Dec 2005
David,
I'll have to refer you to Photobrasive on that very valid question. I originally purchased a "sample" pack of the original RapidMask, and had it on my shelf for over a year after my first sample run. After that year I could not tell of any deterioration. I think that if it is kept in dark cool place the life is substantial. Please do not accept this as gospel. Photobrasive would be able to give you a lot better answer as they probably have that in their spec sheets. The Rapidmask HD II was developed for the demanding photo resist people. They wanted that fine dot pitch, etc. and it needed to stay on the glass when blasting.
Sorry for not being more technical, but us old red neck Arkansas boys let the techno's worry about the specs. >.< We just want to know if it works. If it does, fine. If it doesn't, then gimme something else.
Let us know how you project turns out, and again, we would love to see some pics. I appreciate seeing good work regaurdless of who does it.
Good luck
Mickey
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#12]
17 Dec 2005
To: sawdr73 [#11] 17 Dec 2005
This one may go straight from the etcher to the customer, with no opportunity to photograph. If I get a chance to take a fews pics, I certainly will.
I asked about the shelf life of resist, based on my own, short-lived experience with glass etching.
I bought a pack of (Photobrasives) self-adhesive masking material and worked past the initial learning curve. Since etching wasn't an established part of my business, jobs were few and far between.
About 6 months into my new venture, I received a request to etch a number of wine glasses. I couldn't get the resist to wash out properly and all the King's horses, etc. couldn't make it work.
That's when I learned about shelf life. :-)
From: sawdr73 [#13]
17 Dec 2005
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#12] 17 Dec 2005
David,
That is exactly the way I learn things. Somehow, I don't think to ask questions until I have already gotten the answer. Then I can come up with some good questions. Cart before the horse kind of deal. Hey, you might fit right in here in Arkansas. (devil) It has taken me a lot of foul-ups but now I am starting to ask a few questions BEFORE I get into trouble.
Mickey