Full Version: New Hermes Beveler
From: Ed (EMANA) [#1]
11 Jan 2006
To: ALL
So I finally got a New Hermes Beveler off of e-Bay. It is a model B-3. Anyone know how the B-3 differed from the B-4 and B-5.
The big question....does anyone have a manual for this they could copy or scan for me?
TIA,
Ed
EDITED: 11 Jan 2006 by DGL
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#2]
11 Jan 2006
To: Ed (EMANA) [#1] 11 Jan 2006
A picture might help me.
I may have a B-3 or a B-4.
The only thing I know is that the b-3 came b4 the B-4.
From: Ed (EMANA) [#3]
11 Jan 2006
To: ALL
Harvey,
Here you go!
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#4]
11 Jan 2006
To: Ed (EMANA) [#1] 11 Jan 2006
Not much instruction necessary.
Basically, you have a horizontal and vertical adjustment for the cutter.
Keep the "shank" portion of the angled cutter above the substrate and the pointed tip of the cutter slightly away from the edge of the substrate.
From there, you either raise or lower the cutter, with the vertical adjustment, to achieve your desired width of the bevel.
From: Ed (EMANA) [#5]
11 Jan 2006
To: ALL
Ok,
Lemme start over. I just got this thing and plan to strip it down and clean it and make it all shiny....I was hoping the manual had a parts breakout (aka explosion view) so I didn't end up w/ extra parts at the end. Keep in mind that while I am "somewhat" mechanical, "somewhat" is the operative word here. Also, I probably need to replace the spring that the motor mount uses for tension and the belt and was hoping there were part #s for them in the manual.
Also, the cutters are dull so I figured that the manual might have a shank size so I can order new ones...
Ed
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#6]
11 Jan 2006
To: Ed (EMANA) [#5] 11 Jan 2006
The shank size for that model is (typically) 1/8". You don't necessarily need to buy new cutters. If there's enough carbide remaining, they can be resharpened at a fraction of the cost of new.
I'd be happy to sharpen them for you, or you could send them off to any number of engraving supply houses.
If you call Gravograph (New Hermes) and provide the model number, you should be able to get documentation for that model.
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#7]
11 Jan 2006
To: Ed (EMANA) [#3] 11 Jan 2006
You got some good replies.
One additional, I cannot see from the picture, but on my model there is also an adjustment for near and far for the cutting assembly. In an emergency you can move the spindle away from you a bit and then lower it. You will be using an unused portion of the cutter then.
I cannot think of how many thousands of desk signs and badges I have beveled and the carbide cutter is like the Energizer rabbit. I have a cutter grinder but that bit is incredibly sharp still.
Edit: Darned speil chicken.
EDITED: 11 Jan 2006 by HARVEY-ONLY
From: BrianC (INKSQUIRTER) [#8]
12 Jan 2006
To: Ed (EMANA) [#3] 12 Jan 2006
From: Sam (SAMC11) [#9]
27 Jan 2007
To: Ed (EMANA) [#1] Unread
Do not strip the threads on the knob that elevates the cutter. I did this and to get a replacement is about $75.00. I will fix mine with a local machinist.
Sam