Full Version: Photographing Crystal
From: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#1]
16 May 2004
To: ALL
EDITED: 16 May 2004 by DATAKES
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#2]
16 May 2004
To: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#1] 17 May 2004
Especially if you want to get the engraving to show, it can be difficult.
I have found a way to get a really good image. You must have the equivalent of a tent within which to set up the piece. You shoot through a hole in the tent so you are not seen in the glass. Above the glass a general source of light is good, just not too far towards the camera or it will be seen. Left or right of the glass, sometimes both, about 1/4 the distance to the camera or less, and about head height a point source light like a spot or floodlight. These lights do not have to be bright but will put the sparkle onto the glass.
The big trick is behind the glass. Get a large posterboard of dark grey, just dark enough to say that it may be too dark. Clamp it to the front of the table and form it upward to near vertical behind the glass. The dark grey will cause the lens to open more and give it the appearance of a medium to light grey, but highlight the reflections and engraving extremely well.
This was one trick I was keeping to myself, but you asked.
From: Photomato (RGL) [#3]
16 May 2004
To: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#1] 17 May 2004
Dear Datakes
First of all, my name is Robyn Raggio Lavaneri and I will be fielding some of the photography questions here on the Engraving, Etc. forum.
Not knowing the parameters under which you are photographing your crystal items, I can only suggest certain situations you may wish to explore on your next photo challenge. Crystal is one of the most difficult to shoot due to it's reflective nature, of course, but the results can be most beautiful if done with a few facts in mind. I prefer to shoot using natural light when at all possible, but when shooting crystal, there is a strange but enchanting lighting combination I prefer to strive to create. That employs the use of both specular (bright, unfiltered) as well as diffused (softened) light in order to bring out the depth, cut, clarity and refractive nature of the crystal. I set up either early in the am or later in the afternoon where the sunlight can illuminate the object from the side. Direction is quite important and sidelighting is exemplary when accentuation of a subject's texture (etched imaging?), volume, shape and contrast is desired. You can employ the use of fill flash or additional artificial lighting to pick up more contrast in the imaging areas, but be sure it is not lit straight on or that the additional lighting is too "hot". When this happens, you have the unfortunate result of areas of the crystal becoming too "blown out" or too white hot in the areas of contrast levels. This has a tendency to flatten the contrast and lead to a image devoid of visual impact or drama, which sells a piece time and again. A backdrop or background surface upon which the crystal is displayed is also important. Move in on your subject and keep the background simple. Let the piece speak for itself.
If you give me some idea of how you are shooting the piece, I may be able to be of more assistance. Until then, I do hope that the above suggestions bring the desired results.
Sincerely,
Robyn Lavaneri
Photomato
From: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#4]
17 May 2004
To: Photomato (RGL) [#3] 17 May 2004
Robyn,
It is nice to get a response from the "Stunt Photographer". I am excited to experiment with some of the great recommenbdations that you and Harvey have so graciously shared.
I am going to let the best photo results dictate the background and lighting conditions for which I take my pictures. I am in the process of developing a digital photo collection of my products to use on my website, as well as printed promotional pieces.
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#5]
17 May 2004
To: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#1] 17 May 2004
Here is a poor image that will give a general impression of the results of the tent method. It was a rejected image because it was not as good as the one I used and the good ones and the glass images are lost in the crash. (Of course the rejects folder was backed up but apparently not the good folder.)
It is also horribly compressed to get it to about 11K file size.
The engraved piece is the center layer of the 3 pieces of acrylic. On glass the engraved image generally will show up far better than the engraving here, thus a reject.