Full Version: Help - stray dots in sublimation FRP
From: logojohn [#1]
8 Feb 2006
To: ALL
I keep getting tiny dots at various places all over the badge.
My first thought was that it was from misplaced ink but with a magnifying glass I can see very slight dots in the sub paper before even printing.
Is this my imagination?
Is there a brand of paper that is better? I briefly tried leaving the plastic coating on as someone mentioned but that seemed to make a mess.
I have done a few onezies twozies and the customer hasn't complained but now I have an order for over 100 and need to perfect it.
Is this a common problem with no solution or some way to fix it.
If I use less press time the dots aren't as visible but the color imprint is blotchy and not solid either.
.
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#2]
8 Feb 2006
To: logojohn [#1] 8 Feb 2006
I never had that problem.
The only thing near it was little blue lines. They were caused by wearing polyester clothing while subbing. The blue dye in polyester sublimates beautifully. (So does coffee.)
If you ever find a dust ball, put it on some FRP and sublimate it, what a mess of colors. They are from the dyes in the material that the dust came from.
From: logojohn [#3]
8 Feb 2006
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#2] 8 Feb 2006
is that that nasty stuff they made my leisure suit out of in 1975?
.
EDITED: 8 Feb 2006 by LOGOJOHN
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#4]
8 Feb 2006
To: logojohn [#3] 8 Feb 2006
From: John (JOHNRMONTG) [#5]
8 Feb 2006
To: logojohn [#1] 8 Feb 2006
John... take a look on the DSSI forum under their data base for your specs problems. What paper are you using?
In regards to pressing directly thru the plastic coating I don't do that and I doubt you will get good results doing that. Typically when someone is talking about pressing thru the clear coating they are referring to pressing thru it with the laser sublimation onto metal. I have found with my own experience that I prefer to take the coating of and press directly which yields a much clearer product.
What are your settings? My settings are as follows:
400 degrees
1 minute -20 seconds
med-hi pressure
place FRP face up on press, put image face down onto FRP
Good luck!
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#6]
8 Feb 2006
To: logojohn [#1] 9 Feb 2006
John,
What color are the dots? Magenta?
Are the dots arounds areas of a raster graphic, i.e., a scanned logo?
EDITED: 8 Feb 2006 by DGL
From: logojohn [#7]
9 Feb 2006
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#6] 9 Feb 2006
Its not to noticeable now from a foot away but close up there are specs all over. Mostly black but a few cyan.
Its a c86.
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#8]
9 Feb 2006
To: logojohn [#7] 9 Feb 2006
You may need to do a "physical" head cleaning, which is wiping the bottom of the print heads with a non-fiberous sponge, dampened with Windex.
Sometimes, a buildup of ink can accumulate around the nozzles, causing a misdirection of ink spray.
I have a friend with a C86. I'll be over there today and see how easy it is to access the printheads.
You should also try doing a print head "alignment."
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#9]
9 Feb 2006
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#8] 9 Feb 2006
C86 has a buildup problem on the heads, the worst I have seen.
Almost impossible to clean so I tried many ways. I do not like the following way but it works so far.
Get a piece of a 'tough' paper towel. fold a piece of that so it is three to four layers thick and as wide as the sponge area under the printing area.
Unlock the heads by turning on and unplugging.
Move the had all the way to the right.
Lay the towel on the foam area with the towel protruding on the right side about an inch.
Bring the head to the center, then back to the home once.
New towel, one more time.
Remove the towel, plug in and turn on.
The C86 leaves a ton of wet ink around the head compared to other machines. Once you turn it on in the morning, do not shut it till you are finished for the day. It does a head clean on virtually every turn on. What a waste of ink and creates a fast buildup.
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#10]
9 Feb 2006
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#9] 9 Feb 2006
I was never a fan of the new small format printers.
Your story confirms that I'm on the right track by hanging onto my 900/980 models and repairing if/when necessary.
From: logojohn [#11]
9 Feb 2006
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#10] 9 Feb 2006
The c86 isn't that old and not used much.
Also trying to get the laser printer shared to my computer to test the
laser paper. But they can't locate the software cd yet and its only a few
weeks old :'-(
.
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#12]
9 Feb 2006
To: logojohn [#11] 9 Feb 2006
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#13]
9 Feb 2006
To: logojohn [#11] 9 Feb 2006
I prefer 4-color printers for ink jet sublimation.
Why?
Even though the extra colors (light cyan & light magenta) help with shadows and transitions, in "standard" photo printing, when it comes to dye sub, there's no discernable difference between 4 & 6 color output.
I spoke to Tim Lutz, of Novachrome USA about the differences between 4 & 6 color ink jet dye sub.
To paraphrase, Tim said, "I've been at this (dye sub) a long time and I'll tell ya what, I can't see a difference between the two."
I made the same personal observation, before asking Tim for his opinion.
As Harvey says, the R1800 is basically the replacement for the 1280. I'm not positive, but it may be an 8-color printer.
Will 8-color dye sub show a dramatic increase in color gamut?
I haven't seen enough 8-color output to say. I doubt there would be enough difference to warrant the expense of the additional colors of ink.
I did take a close look at the C86 today, to check for access to the printheads. Juts like Harvey mentioned, very limited access. Pretty much just from the right-hand side.