Full Version: Dog tags domed

From: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#15]
 6 Mar 2006
To: UncleSteve [#14] 6 Mar 2006

I think the metaza tags take a little while to make, but I may be wrong in my thinking with that too. I guess you would have to get your money first or you would never see some people again :) 

But if I had a kiosk I would not want a bare light bulb hanging over a doming area either.


The rest is not directed at you UncleSteve just pointing out:


The original intent of the thread was just to point out that doming can be easy and inexpensive. At least to try it out. If you get to the point you need a production line then buy whatever equipment needed.

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From: UncleSteve [#16]
 6 Mar 2006
To: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#15] 6 Mar 2006

Understood... but a "bare light bulb" is not necesary.... mounted in a small metal box with a sliding tray (like a toaster oven setup without the heating coil) would put the "magic light" out of sight from the customer.

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From: Mick [#17]
 6 Mar 2006
To: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#15] 6 Mar 2006

An excellent source for UV cure doming resins, and equipment is

http://www.deco-coat.com/

The UV Cure 7155 cures quite well with low intenstiy black light. The more wattage you give it the faster it cures. I have cured it in 30 seconds or less with a 400 watt quartz halogen bulb.

Sublimation dyes will, however, over time, "migrate" into the epoxy dome.

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From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#18]
 6 Mar 2006
To: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#15] 6 Mar 2006

Steve is right in that most people want it yesterday. But most succumb to the reality that a good quality Metaza, called Impact at the shop, takes 40 min to an hour.

I can engrave them faster but not with the same quality. I think word of mouth as to the quality has brought in some customers.

Edit: How did goos get past the spell checker?

EDITED: 6 Mar 2006 by HARVEY-ONLY

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From: Ken D. (KDEVORY) [#19]
 6 Mar 2006
To: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#15] 6 Mar 2006

I posted some pictures, of my light box, on this forum a while back. I monunted the bulbs in a small cardboard box. Its easy to set aside, and shields my eyes. (I know people look at the bulbs all the time, but it makes me feel better.) I also traced the box on my table to aid in positioning the items to be cured. Without doing a search for my posts, I think I spent less then $25 including the two bulbs.

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From: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#20]
 6 Mar 2006
To: Mick [#17] 7 Mar 2006

Yes, I use the 7155 and 7156.

They are very clear and cure quickly.

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From: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#21]
 6 Mar 2006
To: Ken D. (KDEVORY) [#19] 6 Mar 2006

The key, I found was getting the light bulb as close as possible to the item.

I like being able to lift the light up and out of the way while I place the items to be cured.

I had a drawer setup from ultradome.com. But after a while the bulbs were not curing. Instead of buying new ones I just purchased an 18" flourescent fixture.

I now use a different bulb that is a little better in uv output and doesn't cost much.

Steve

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From: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#22]
 6 Mar 2006
To: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#21] 6 Mar 2006

Here is the bulb I use now:

http://www.atlantalightbulbs.com/ecart/20Review.asp?ProductCode=F15T8BL&x=79&y=18

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From: Ken D. (KDEVORY) [#23]
 6 Mar 2006
To: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#21] 6 Mar 2006

That's what I like about a box. The bottom is the only side that is open. (plus some vents over the sockets for heat to escape.) But we are talking about two different beasts. Mine is small for testing, yours sounds better for production runs. (I like reading what others are doing, great way to learn.) I've used it on laserMax, but not the anodized aluminum lazerable tags.

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From: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#24]
 6 Mar 2006
To: Ken D. (KDEVORY) [#23] 7 Mar 2006

I guess I was thinking of something different. When you said box I was thinking you had to slide something in. Sliding can upset the epoxy and cause it to go over the edges occasionally. But then again bumping my table can do the same thing! :) 

There are the high watt lights out there. I think the people selling "glazing" units use them. Cures in about 5 mins. But the glazing units cost from $1500 to $2500. I am thinking of the systems that do plates, ornaments etc. The "glaze" is epoxy from what I understand.

I will wait for 15 minutes at this point. And I am not really waiting. I put the items under the light and do whatever. I end up leaving them under longer all the time, cheap bulb so no worries about that.

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From: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#25]
 6 Mar 2006
To: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#24] 6 Mar 2006

Here are a try at pictures.
The first picture the tags are not domed.
Boy the pictures don't do justice to the process.

EDITED: 11 Jun 2006 by ELECTECH1

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From: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#26]
 6 Mar 2006
To: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#25] 6 Mar 2006

I am trying a higher resolution. It is higher than the forum limit and I will delete it if it does not show detail
There is more detail but still does not do justice.

The domes are crystal clear and no specs or lint in the domes. That was picked up off the scanner. Guess I need to clean the scanner glass.

EDITED: 11 Jun 2006 by ELECTECH1

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From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#27]
 7 Mar 2006
To: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#26] 7 Mar 2006

A digital camera will do better than a scanner. The angle of the piece is critical to show the dome. A scanner is flat on, purposely setup for no 3D results.

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From: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#28]
 7 Mar 2006
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#27] 8 Mar 2006

I really do need to get a digital with a good macro but I keep spending everything I make now. No room for a good digital yet.

I will have to check with friends and family and see if I can borrow one.

Steve

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From: RALLYGUY (RALLYGUY1) [#29]
 7 Mar 2006
To: Mick [#17] 8 Mar 2006

Terry Morris from DSSI makes a Doming system as well. It can be found at http://ultradome.com/products.html He also a movie that you can see it in action at.... http://ultradome.com/tips.html

EDITED: 7 Mar 2006 by RALLYGUY1

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From: Myyk [#30]
 7 Mar 2006
To: Mick [#17] 8 Mar 2006

If you use a normal 2 pot Acid Free resin, there doesn't seem to be a problem with the sublimation printing migrating/bleeding into it. At least, I have had no complaints over the last 5 years and I make quite few badges that way.
I use colour sublimation (Sawgrass) on Bright gold or silver metal, then resin coat, which gives the aluminium some strength and customers, by and large, find the translucent lettering quite stunning.
I don't use the white metal as it is just too difficult and time consuming to color match.
If customers want a resin coated white background badge, I print them with my C80 Epson on inkjet vinyl, then overlaminate, apply to a suitable size aluminium plate and resin coat.
I don't usually use UV cured resin on badges as the one available locally gives a soft self healing finish that doesn't seem to last well, long term.

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From: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#31]
 8 Mar 2006
To: Myyk [#30] 8 Mar 2006

I have not had problems with sub inks migrating into the resin unless I use the wrong substrate.
Unisub or the mates material works great but there are several inkjet coated papers that don't work when doming.

Steve

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From: Mike (SPACE_ENGRAVERS) [#32]
 30 Apr 2006
To: ALL

I've never domed (didn't even know what it was until 10 minutes ago) but after reading this have a few questions:

1. Everyone talks about some inkjet papers and inks that don't work...which ones have you seen that DO work?

2. I notice in some of the pictures that the resin doesn't always go all the way to the edge on some of the odd shaped tags. Does the customer say anything about a "uneven" finish?

3. If I wanted to dome two sides of something (say, a coin) could I do it? after the first side dries and you turn it over, it's no longer flat...

4. Where can I get some inexpensive resin to try out just to see if I'm going to like it?

Thanks,
Mike

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From: Puck (PUCKERBRUSH) [#33]
 30 Apr 2006
To: Mike (SPACE_ENGRAVERS) [#32] 30 Apr 2006

Mike,

I'm new to doming but can answer a couple of your questions.

Yes, you can do both sides just use something to set it on to make it flat (like styrofoam..spelling?) if it's not flat enough. I do both sides of things on some of my stuff works just fine.

On the edge it is much more noticable when magnified in a picture. You will most likely not notice any edge problems unless you don't make sure your edges are covered in the process when you dome it. Just use something to push it to the very edge gently, it will level out then.

Sorry on the paper stuff, I just haven't done anything with paper yet but am going to do some with vinyl (sign vinyl material) this week to see how it works out.

And last I sent you a PM with some other info since this was getting to be a long post.

Puck

EDITED: 30 Apr 2006 by PUCKERBRUSH

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From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#34]
 30 Apr 2006
To: Puck (PUCKERBRUSH) [#33] 30 Apr 2006

I don't think the post was that long and unless your PM to Mike contained sensitive information that wouldn't fall under the "Freedom of Information Act" other people may want to hear more. :-) 

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