Full Version: Dog tags domed

From: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#21]
 6 Mar 2006
To: Ken D. (KDEVORY) [#19] 6 Mar 2006

The key, I found was getting the light bulb as close as possible to the item.

I like being able to lift the light up and out of the way while I place the items to be cured.

I had a drawer setup from ultradome.com. But after a while the bulbs were not curing. Instead of buying new ones I just purchased an 18" flourescent fixture.

I now use a different bulb that is a little better in uv output and doesn't cost much.

Steve

From: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#22]
 6 Mar 2006
To: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#21] 6 Mar 2006

Here is the bulb I use now:

http://www.atlantalightbulbs.com/ecart/20Review.asp?ProductCode=F15T8BL&x=79&y=18

From: Ken D. (KDEVORY) [#23]
 6 Mar 2006
To: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#21] 6 Mar 2006

quote:
I like being able to lift the light up and out of the way while I place the items to be cured.
That's what I like about a box. The bottom is the only side that is open. (plus some vents over the sockets for heat to escape.) But we are talking about two different beasts. Mine is small for testing, yours sounds better for production runs. (I like reading what others are doing, great way to learn.) I've used it on laserMax, but not the anodized aluminum lazerable tags.

From: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#24]
 6 Mar 2006
To: Ken D. (KDEVORY) [#23] 7 Mar 2006

I guess I was thinking of something different. When you said box I was thinking you had to slide something in. Sliding can upset the epoxy and cause it to go over the edges occasionally. But then again bumping my table can do the same thing! :) 


There are the high watt lights out there. I think the people selling "glazing" units use them. Cures in about 5 mins. But the glazing units cost from $1500 to $2500. I am thinking of the systems that do plates, ornaments etc. The "glaze" is epoxy from what I understand.

I will wait for 15 minutes at this point. And I am not really waiting. I put the items under the light and do whatever. I end up leaving them under longer all the time, cheap bulb so no worries about that.

From: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#25]
 6 Mar 2006
To: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#24] 6 Mar 2006

Here are a try at pictures.
The first picture the tags are not domed.
Boy the pictures don't do justice to the process.

EDITED: 11 Jun 2006 by ELECTECH1

From: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#26]
 6 Mar 2006
To: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#25] 6 Mar 2006

I am trying a higher resolution. It is higher than the forum limit and I will delete it if it does not show detail
There is more detail but still does not do justice.

The domes are crystal clear and no specs or lint in the domes. That was picked up off the scanner. Guess I need to clean the scanner glass.

EDITED: 11 Jun 2006 by ELECTECH1

From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#27]
 7 Mar 2006
To: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#26] 7 Mar 2006

A digital camera will do better than a scanner. The angle of the piece is critical to show the dome. A scanner is flat on, purposely setup for no 3D results.

From: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#28]
 7 Mar 2006
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#27] 8 Mar 2006

I really do need to get a digital with a good macro but I keep spending everything I make now. No room for a good digital yet.

I will have to check with friends and family and see if I can borrow one.

Steve

From: RALLYGUY (RALLYGUY1) [#29]
 7 Mar 2006
To: Mick [#17] 8 Mar 2006

Terry Morris from DSSI makes a Doming system as well. It can be found at http://ultradome.com/products.html He also a movie that you can see it in action at.... http://ultradome.com/tips.html

Thanks,

Brian Genrich


Rallye Productions Inc.
1-800-236-2036 x112
Custom cut, or sheet stock Sublimatable metal,
Screen printing, and other digital print services.

EDITED: 7 Mar 2006 by RALLYGUY1

From: Myyk [#30]
 7 Mar 2006
To: Mick [#17] 8 Mar 2006

If you use a normal 2 pot Acid Free resin, there doesn't seem to be a problem with the sublimation printing migrating/bleeding into it. At least, I have had no complaints over the last 5 years and I make quite few badges that way.
I use colour sublimation (Sawgrass) on Bright gold or silver metal, then resin coat, which gives the aluminium some strength and customers, by and large, find the translucent lettering quite stunning.
I don't use the white metal as it is just too difficult and time consuming to color match.
If customers want a resin coated white background badge, I print them with my C80 Epson on inkjet vinyl, then overlaminate, apply to a suitable size aluminium plate and resin coat.
I don't usually use UV cured resin on badges as the one available locally gives a soft self healing finish that doesn't seem to last well, long term.

From: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#31]
 8 Mar 2006
To: Myyk [#30] 8 Mar 2006

I have not had problems with sub inks migrating into the resin unless I use the wrong substrate.
Unisub or the mates material works great but there are several inkjet coated papers that don't work when doming.

Steve

From: Mike (SPACE_ENGRAVERS) [#32]
 30 Apr 2006
To: ALL

I've never domed (didn't even know what it was until 10 minutes ago) but after reading this have a few questions:

1. Everyone talks about some inkjet papers and inks that don't work...which ones have you seen that DO work?

2. I notice in some of the pictures that the resin doesn't always go all the way to the edge on some of the odd shaped tags. Does the customer say anything about a "uneven" finish?

3. If I wanted to dome two sides of something (say, a coin) could I do it? after the first side dries and you turn it over, it's no longer flat...

4. Where can I get some inexpensive resin to try out just to see if I'm going to like it?

Thanks,
Mike

From: Puck (PUCKERBRUSH) [#33]
 30 Apr 2006
To: Mike (SPACE_ENGRAVERS) [#32] 30 Apr 2006

Mike,

I'm new to doming but can answer a couple of your questions.

Yes, you can do both sides just use something to set it on to make it flat (like styrofoam..spelling?) if it's not flat enough. I do both sides of things on some of my stuff works just fine.

On the edge it is much more noticable when magnified in a picture. You will most likely not notice any edge problems unless you don't make sure your edges are covered in the process when you dome it. Just use something to push it to the very edge gently, it will level out then.

Sorry on the paper stuff, I just haven't done anything with paper yet but am going to do some with vinyl (sign vinyl material) this week to see how it works out.

And last I sent you a PM with some other info since this was getting to be a long post.

Puck

EDITED: 30 Apr 2006 by PUCKERBRUSH

From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#34]
 30 Apr 2006
To: Puck (PUCKERBRUSH) [#33] 30 Apr 2006

I don't think the post was that long and unless your PM to Mike contained sensitive information that wouldn't fall under the "Freedom of Information Act" other people may want to hear more. :-) 

From: Ken D. (KDEVORY) [#35]
 30 Apr 2006
To: Mike (SPACE_ENGRAVERS) [#32] 30 Apr 2006

Most of your questions have been answered. I'll comment on the paper/ink. I tried a couple of photo papers with no luck. (I think they were all HP papers.) Ordinary paper will work, no UV inhibitors. It's the shinny papers that are made to last. I have used the Photo Glossy Film from www.papilio.com. It is polyester and safe to laser cut. and has an adhesive back. I lost my one good sample that had two pictures back to back encased in the doming epoxy. (Epoxy extended 0.1" beyond the edge of the photos.) I've only tried the ink in my HP office jet 7140. It will not work fresh from the printer. My office has an old stove with a pilot. I put the picture on a piece of glass on the stove over the pilot over night and it works. (I have not experimented to find a production feasible method of drying or the time vs. temp curve.)

From: Puck (PUCKERBRUSH) [#36]
 30 Apr 2006
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#34] 30 Apr 2006

Stunt Engraver,

Ok, just don't like to ramble on and on since it was already stated in this thread earlier.

I don't believe anything was senitive about the PM.
Just sent the website link with the info for the resin that was mentioned earlier in this thread. Of course it took me a good paragraph to write it since I also told him which one of the resins I was using.

While your here, do you use a two part resin epoxy for your doming?

Puck

From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#37]
 30 Apr 2006
To: Puck (PUCKERBRUSH) [#36] 30 Apr 2006

I was just giving you a hard time. (devil) 

My message was meant to be good-natured and I hope it was taken as such.

I've only used one-part UV cure epoxy, but if I were to dome anything for outdoor use, I'd go with two-part.

EDITED: 30 Apr 2006 by DGL

From: Puck (PUCKERBRUSH) [#38]
 30 Apr 2006
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#37] 30 Apr 2006

Stunt Engraver,

Well, you did make me think about the "sensitive" part but figured you was just leading me on!

Two part stuff is just beyond me since I have the hardest time getting the mix just right. Probably won't do to much outdoor stuff except stuff for myself. PT needs some fancy wheel inserts to go with the ghost flames, going to do something there and see how the UV resin works out.

I was wondering how the pet tags will hold up so did place one in water and left it for 12 hours, withstood that just fine so now the outside test. With this weather a couple days should tell me something hopefully.

Puck

From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#39]
 30 Apr 2006
To: Puck (PUCKERBRUSH) [#38] 30 Apr 2006

Other than outdoor exposure causing one-part epoxy to yellow, durability of two-part epoxy should be very similar.

As far as proper measurements of two-part epoxy, some brands come in a two-part syringe, which assures the proper blend, but I believe you have to wait until you have a decent run of items, because you'll have to use the entire syringe-full in one sitting.

I'm not positive about that last statement.

EDITED: 30 Apr 2006 by DGL

From: Ken D. (KDEVORY) [#40]
 30 Apr 2006
To: Ken D. (KDEVORY) [#35] 30 Apr 2006

I wanted to add something on the ink drying topic. If he ink is not *fully* dry the epoxy might still bond, but you will see the flow pattern on the top surface. (flow pattern: the path you used when applying the epoxy.)

Show messages:  1-20  21-40  41-42

Back to thread list | Login

© 2024 Project Beehive Forum