Full Version: Dog tags domed

From: LipChip [#6]
 6 Mar 2006
To: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#1] 6 Mar 2006

Hello Steve,

I'm looking forward to pictures of what your doming regarding the Chewbarka dogtags. I met with Chewbarka at the ARA Show regarding OEM toners, Flatbed Direct printing, and Inkjet printing to die cut papers for the Chewbarka products. They loved our samples and we are very much looking forward to working with them, and the engravers here on the forum. We have also domed/glazed hundreds of Metaza products with our solution, and the value to the customer on the products has been wonderful because they can see how the products can not get scratched. Ironically another thing that the users of our "Crystal Shield" machine like is that it the doming creates a silencer effect when wearing several dogtag together. No more clanging and scrathing of the various products.

The doming/glazing process we developed for these products, over the past three years is called "Crystal Shield", and we showed Chewbarka and several other customers the products and process at the ARA show. This doming/glazing process cures a bed of products (roughly) 9"x11" in 3 minutes. The glazing/doming solutions we have for this process has been used on the market for over 16 years, and we don't have the yellowing effect that many others have.

I will be making more announcements about the "Crystal Shield" machines and upcoming products in the near future.


From: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#7]
 6 Mar 2006
To: Puck (PUCKERBRUSH) [#5] 6 Mar 2006

It does not scratch easliy at all, one of the great advantages.

I keep a tag on my key chain and it has zero scratches.


From: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#8]
 6 Mar 2006
To: LipChip [#6] 6 Mar 2006

Hi,

I get crystal clear domes.

I am assuming your system is using high wattage UV lights that cure in 5 minutes or so.

Because I am just using a black light that cures in about 15 minutes.

Doming is a great option to offer customers, a chance to add value for very little investment per piece.

How much do you recommend people mark up their product with a dome over no dome? Or do you even suggest a price?


From: LipChip [#9]
 6 Mar 2006
To: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#8] 6 Mar 2006

I understand that your getting crystal clear domes. However, in a kiosk or production situation 15 minutes to cure would be extremely difficult to get products make efficiently.

Our customers are "loving" the doming/glazing property, and especially the color photo imaging on the products.

Each users sets his or her own price on the doming. I've seen it being offered from $3.00 - $9.00 onto Metaza, as a protection to the metals layer. Most customers will pay the price if you tell them it protects from scratching.


From: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#10]
 6 Mar 2006
To: LipChip [#9] 7 Mar 2006

I wasn't trying to compare to what you are doing. Every resin that I have tried that is made for; or advertised for doming is clear and does not yellow.

How long does it take to produce one of the metaza tags? Adding another 15 minutes to that should not make or break the sale. I assume that in a kiosk situation the customers orders, does some shopping and picks up the item later. But I started this thread just to let other people know they can dome cheaply and get great products.

The faster time is great but not needed in my application.
I have no problem with what you are selling but it is not necessary to dome, especially in my application. And for people just wanting to see if doming is for them, this works great.

For those of you who are doming, what are you using?

Steve


From: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#11]
 6 Mar 2006
To: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#8] 6 Mar 2006

Steve,

What brand of doming material are you using?


From: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#12]
 6 Mar 2006
To: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#10] 6 Mar 2006

Steve,

Doming definitely adds great perceived value to products. I don't know if you have ever seen round inserts that have been domed, but it makes a huge difference, especially on an award like the one pictured below. You may have to use your imagination a bit, but this trophy looks tremendously better when the round logo insert is domed. It reeks of quality.

EDITED: 6 Mar 2006 by DATAKES


From: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#13]
 6 Mar 2006
To: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#12] 6 Mar 2006

I agree about doming in general.
Those do look nice.
But it is very hard to see in photo's.

I have no doubt lipchips stuff is very good. I just don't need. If I had a kiosk I might!

Steve


From: UncleSteve [#14]
 6 Mar 2006
To: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#10] 6 Mar 2006

quote:
I assume that in a kiosk situation the customers orders, does some shopping and picks up the item later.


Bzzzzzt! Wrong answer! ;-) 

Having hung around Harvey and Dee's kiosk, the customer doesn't move until they have their finished product. In the store, it is a bit different where the customers don't seem to mind coming back in a few but at the kiosk it is an impulse purchase not a "planned" purchase.


From: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#15]
 6 Mar 2006
To: UncleSteve [#14] 6 Mar 2006

I think the metaza tags take a little while to make, but I may be wrong in my thinking with that too. I guess you would have to get your money first or you would never see some people again :) 

But if I had a kiosk I would not want a bare light bulb hanging over a doming area either.


The rest is not directed at you UncleSteve just pointing out:


The original intent of the thread was just to point out that doming can be easy and inexpensive. At least to try it out. If you get to the point you need a production line then buy whatever equipment needed.

From: UncleSteve [#16]
 6 Mar 2006
To: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#15] 6 Mar 2006

Understood... but a "bare light bulb" is not necesary.... mounted in a small metal box with a sliding tray (like a toaster oven setup without the heating coil) would put the "magic light" out of sight from the customer.


From: Mick [#17]
 6 Mar 2006
To: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#15] 6 Mar 2006

An excellent source for UV cure doming resins, and equipment is

http://www.deco-coat.com/

The UV Cure 7155 cures quite well with low intenstiy black light. The more wattage you give it the faster it cures. I have cured it in 30 seconds or less with a 400 watt quartz halogen bulb.

Sublimation dyes will, however, over time, "migrate" into the epoxy dome.


From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#18]
 6 Mar 2006
To: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#15] 6 Mar 2006

Steve is right in that most people want it yesterday. But most succumb to the reality that a good quality Metaza, called Impact at the shop, takes 40 min to an hour.

I can engrave them faster but not with the same quality. I think word of mouth as to the quality has brought in some customers.

Edit: How did goos get past the spell checker?

EDITED: 6 Mar 2006 by HARVEY-ONLY


From: Ken D. (KDEVORY) [#19]
 6 Mar 2006
To: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#15] 6 Mar 2006

quote:
I would not want a bare light bulb hanging over a doming area
I posted some pictures, of my light box, on this forum a while back. I monunted the bulbs in a small cardboard box. Its easy to set aside, and shields my eyes. (I know people look at the bulbs all the time, but it makes me feel better.) I also traced the box on my table to aid in positioning the items to be cured. Without doing a search for my posts, I think I spent less then $25 including the two bulbs.

From: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#20]
 6 Mar 2006
To: Mick [#17] 7 Mar 2006

Yes, I use the 7155 and 7156.

They are very clear and cure quickly.


From: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#21]
 6 Mar 2006
To: Ken D. (KDEVORY) [#19] 6 Mar 2006

The key, I found was getting the light bulb as close as possible to the item.

I like being able to lift the light up and out of the way while I place the items to be cured.

I had a drawer setup from ultradome.com. But after a while the bulbs were not curing. Instead of buying new ones I just purchased an 18" flourescent fixture.

I now use a different bulb that is a little better in uv output and doesn't cost much.

Steve


From: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#22]
 6 Mar 2006
To: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#21] 6 Mar 2006

Here is the bulb I use now:

http://www.atlantalightbulbs.com/ecart/20Review.asp?ProductCode=F15T8BL&x=79&y=18


From: Ken D. (KDEVORY) [#23]
 6 Mar 2006
To: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#21] 6 Mar 2006

quote:
I like being able to lift the light up and out of the way while I place the items to be cured.
That's what I like about a box. The bottom is the only side that is open. (plus some vents over the sockets for heat to escape.) But we are talking about two different beasts. Mine is small for testing, yours sounds better for production runs. (I like reading what others are doing, great way to learn.) I've used it on laserMax, but not the anodized aluminum lazerable tags.

From: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#24]
 6 Mar 2006
To: Ken D. (KDEVORY) [#23] 7 Mar 2006

I guess I was thinking of something different. When you said box I was thinking you had to slide something in. Sliding can upset the epoxy and cause it to go over the edges occasionally. But then again bumping my table can do the same thing! :) 


There are the high watt lights out there. I think the people selling "glazing" units use them. Cures in about 5 mins. But the glazing units cost from $1500 to $2500. I am thinking of the systems that do plates, ornaments etc. The "glaze" is epoxy from what I understand.

I will wait for 15 minutes at this point. And I am not really waiting. I put the items under the light and do whatever. I end up leaving them under longer all the time, cheap bulb so no worries about that.


From: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#25]
 6 Mar 2006
To: sroehlk (ELECTECH1) [#24] 6 Mar 2006

Here are a try at pictures.
The first picture the tags are not domed.
Boy the pictures don't do justice to the process.

EDITED: 11 Jun 2006 by ELECTECH1


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