Full Version: So easy a Caveman could do it

From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#1]
 23 Mar 2006
To: ALL

Today I successfully engraved my first photograph using Photograv ( Thank you Jeanette)

I was frustrated after several tries because it just did not come out like the simulation, or look anywhere near what I would consider acceptable ( I am not a perfectionist, I am NOT a perfectionist) I AM NOT a Perfectionsist)....

Finally while perusing the "info" screen in Photograv, I noticed the power, speed and dpi settings used for the simulation. Once I changed MY settings to match those in the simulation....it worked beautifully.

HOWEVER, it still has more of an "engraved" (or etched ) look than that of a photograph. I was working with wood thins from Studio Workshop. I am not sure if it was alder or cherry.......I believe cherry.....

Any ideas?

Thank you

EDITED: 23 Mar 2006 by C_BURKE


From: Barbara (RGILE) [#2]
 24 Mar 2006
To: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#1] 24 Mar 2006

Chuck,
Are you using the wood setting in Photograv or the Marble setting?
If you are picking marble setting and then practicing on wood, perhaps that's the reason why you are getting the wrong look.

I do not understand what you mean by etched or engraved look though. Isn't that what we are doing?
Is it going too deep? If it is, then maybe your settings are too high. (power)
try lowering the settings.
I got some sample wood cherry tiles from Sloan's workshop and have a setting that I use of 65 speed amd 70 power. that is on a 30W laser

When I am in photograv I click on modify material to get the lightness right and then I use 5 or 7 on enhance button, then use 300 dpi and it usually comes out fine. I do not change anything else in photograv.

Then when I do the actual engraving (on wood) I use the above speed and power settings, I always use error diffusion on the raster part , and dpi is always 300 for photographs. I use 500 if it is just text.

As far as marble goes, it really depends on the marble that you have. I have two settings that I use for marble. The absolute black from Tile stores, I use a setting of 40 speed and 100 power. When I use Lasersketch hard marble, I use a setting of 45 speed and 70 power.

I do them both the same in Photgrav. I import the photo, then choose the marble (blk painted acrylic) setting, then I use interactive process, using 300 dpi, and the enhance part I use 5 or 7, depending on the picture. I have always had good luck with marble photo's as long as the marble is good. Again, the one from the store uses a different setting than with Lasersketch's hard marble.

You can see some of my work from my website, the photo's are not the best, but they are all I have until I get a pro to do them.
If I can be of any help at all, I can be reached in skype. I think I am on your list already, but my connection breaks up with the voice part of it, so It's easier to instant message me on it.

bye for now, and Good Luck,
I hope this helped. ;-) 


From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#3]
 24 Mar 2006
To: Barbara (RGILE) [#2] 25 Mar 2006

Barbara,

Thank you for your response.....yes, etching/engraving is what we are doing but I could not get mine to come out like the ones featured on this site www.gracegifts.com They seem as if they are just "printed" on the wood not "burned" into it.

I have not started with marble yet.

Thanks


From: Ken D. (KDEVORY) [#4]
 25 Mar 2006
To: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#3] 25 Mar 2006

quote:
just "printed" on the wood not "burned" into it.
I found that I don't like dark areas burned away either. I think black looks best when the holes are really close together, but still seperate. It's been a while since I've played with wood, but I think I posted some settings in the materials/settings folder.

From: LaZerDude (C_BURKE) [#5]
 25 Mar 2006
To: Ken D. (KDEVORY) [#4] 26 Mar 2006

Ken

quote:
It's been a while since I've played with wood, but I think I posted some settings in the materials/settings folder.



Thank you. I'll take a look

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