Full Version: Oil in Compressor tank
From: JimK (JUSTTHE4OFUS) [#1]
17 Apr 2006
To: ALL
One problem I had was with the compressor, at least I think so. The comp is new and was hard wired about 3 weeks ago. I did the break-in per the manual and set the blast cabinet up, setting pressures at reg and at cabinet, but didn't add abrasive till this weekend. Yesterday when I shut the comp off and drained the water, I got an oil/water emulsion instead of only water. This doesn't seem right to me? Any advice, call repair, jump off roof, or OK to go? The comp seemed to run fine and was not running excessively but did seem to heat up a lot. I assumed it was the newness and there was some oil on the outside from shipping that had to burn off. I do have a an in-home maint contract on it. It seems that oil in the tank is not good and that can get in the line and contaminate the abgrasive.
Thx,
JimK
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#2]
17 Apr 2006
To: JimK (JUSTTHE4OFUS) [#1] 17 Apr 2006
Do you have a line filter, to keep condensed water from entering your abrasive nozzle?
A compressor will generate heat, as air moves through the lines. Where are you feeling the heat?
From: JimK (JUSTTHE4OFUS) [#3]
17 Apr 2006
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#2] 17 Apr 2006
The heat was at the compressor motor. When I got it there was a little oil on the outside and when it ran it smoked a little from the heat. But it seemed to run OK. I have a 25' line cut into 10' and 15 ' sections. At the 15' end from the compressor I have a regulator/water filter. Then 10' to the cabinet.
Jim
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#4]
17 Apr 2006
To: JimK (JUSTTHE4OFUS) [#3] 17 Apr 2006
I'm no authority on compressors, but what you're describing sounds like typical break-in sights and smells.
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#5]
17 Apr 2006
To: JimK (JUSTTHE4OFUS) [#3] 17 Apr 2006
A non-oil free compressor will allow a a faint bit of oil to get through, the amount is unknown to me. It may be break in leakage, maybe even the tank was oil coated to protect it in storage. You definitely need a filter for that, on that type of compressor.
Heat, oh yes. Motors are usually rated for a 50*C rise at max load, it should be noted on the motor plate. The other source of heat is the compressed air itself, air gets very hot when compressed. All of the thermal energy in the air now is in a smaller volume, and that shows up as heat.
You need a final water separator right at the cabinet. As the air travels down the final line it continues to cool, causing more condensation. (Compressed air is super-saturated with water because it cannot hold as much moisture as normal.
In an industrial application you have a separator at the compressor, then into the tank which builds oil skinned water, then a chiller with separator down the line, and a filter/separator at each unit that uses air. A chiller would be overkill, but that final filter/separator is necessary.
From: JimK (JUSTTHE4OFUS) [#6]
17 Apr 2006
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#5] 17 Apr 2006
Harvey,
I actually have 2 separators, one at 15' from the cabinet with a regulator to drop the pressure to the cabinet to a safe level, and a second one right at the cabinet where I adjust the blast pressure, built-in. I get a liitle water at the 15' one and nothing so far at the cabinet.
Hopefully, this is normal break-in stuff. This is worse than loading plug and play software! You know I try not to get over-anxious, do everything right, show some patience and it still sucks! I'm going back to not reading the manual and just throwing the switch, heck it can't get worse. It can? OK, I'll be patient............
Jim
From: John (ICTJOHN) [#7]
17 Apr 2006
To: JimK (JUSTTHE4OFUS) [#6] 17 Apr 2006
Jim,
Sounds normal, I have had my compressor for about 8 years and I still get a brownish water with a little oil film on it whenever I drain the tank. At the opposite end at the filter, I get a clear water with just a slight hint of oil. I rarely have to add oil to the compressor. So I think you are all set to show us some samples of your work............. :D
From: JimK (JUSTTHE4OFUS) [#8]
17 Apr 2006
To: John (ICTJOHN) [#7] 17 Apr 2006
Samples soon, thanks much for the advice, I'll stay the course! My brain is in overload with all the things I want to do, or think I can do.
I fired it up this weekend because I was having miserable results with some lacquered baseball bats. They are glossy black and need to be gold paint filled for awards. I have to deliver 12 on opening day 4/29 and my reputation, future, is at stake. I lasered and then used rubnbuff and it filled in the grain too. Thought that would ahppen. I then tried a mask material (green, fairly thick) that I got somewhere, and it seemed to put a film inside my laser so I suspect PVC and quit using it. Also was having trouble with the bat curvature. So, I went to the blastcabinet as all I needed to remove was the surface coat and then spray paint over the mask. It looked really good, unfortunately the paint did not dry on the RapidMask and when put under running water to remove the mask, paint got all over the bat. I let it "dry" longer but still no.
So I went back to the laser, decreased the size (height) of the graphic I was putting where logo goes (an oval with the year and league name), and used LaserTape which is thinner than the other mask. I have to level the bat for the center, focus 0.12" to 0.15" into the bat for the curvature, and do the logo in the middle, paint and set aside, do all 12, then reset the level for the end, focus, and do the names and wording on the end. The end has less curvature and is flatter along the length, and is words only so it works OK. I am getting the job done but much more time consuming than I imagined.
Another forum member, Graig, from MSBI Graphics, has suggested another method. Once I get my IS400 Volume set up I may try to rotary engrave and then paint-fill. I have an agreement with the local league to sell these bats through the league's website and the league gets $10 for each sold. These 12 were to be my drop-dead gorgious examples seen by 400 - 500 folks during the opening day as I present them to last year's state champion 9/10 all-star team. Also as past president, I am throwing out the opening pitch (two actually, one for each twin son), so I am getting excellent exposure as well as being a team sponsor. This whole thing was/is intended to kick off my new shop and expansion in the local area.
Due to the time involved I am rethinking this great idea. What if we sold 200bats? Man, I'd never get them done. Need something with less time per piece. Actually if I had a leveling jig I could cut time way down in the laser.
I'm still thinking, something will pop. An idea or my brain.......
Jim (new shop photo attached)
EDITED: 29 Jun 2006 by JUSTTHE4OFUS
From: John (ICTJOHN) [#9]
17 Apr 2006
To: JimK (JUSTTHE4OFUS) [#8] 17 Apr 2006
Jim,
So, is the building on the left your existing shop and you are moving up to the 2 story???? (devil) Just kidding, looks like a great shop. Are you leaving the siding clear or staining it?
Good luck on the bat project. I think most of us have been there with a project like this that seems to take forever to finish.............
From: JimK (JUSTTHE4OFUS) [#10]
17 Apr 2006
To: John (ICTJOHN) [#9] 17 Apr 2006
Good one!
Solid stain, starts Weds weather permitting. One of my sons track coaches moonloights (daylights?) as a house painter. I buy paint the boys and I get to help. Gets done w/o waiting for me and for less $. Good all around.
From: RALLYGUY (RALLYGUY1) [#11]
17 Apr 2006
To: JimK (JUSTTHE4OFUS) [#6] 17 Apr 2006
Some oil is common....Don't worry yet, but get a seperator if you don't have one....it will take care of both the oil and water.....
Empty the tank regularly......The space the water takes up in the tank will make the compressor run more often with a shorter dwell cycle.....The starting is the hardest on the electrical components, and having a tank half full of water creates more start cycles for the same volume of air use.....
Good luck with the new toy..... ;)
Brian G.
From: JimK (JUSTTHE4OFUS) [#12]
17 Apr 2006
To: RALLYGUY (RALLYGUY1) [#11] 18 Apr 2006
Brian,
Thanks! Any idea where I'd look for a seperator or is a water filter good enough?
JimK
From: RALLYGUY (RALLYGUY1) [#13]
18 Apr 2006
To: JimK (JUSTTHE4OFUS) [#12] 18 Apr 2006
The water filter is a seperator....it will seperate the oil and water from the air line. It is better to put the seperator at the end of the line near the point of use. It allows the cooling and condensation of the air to occur prior to the point of use then....
Some systems use chillers to help with this....You probably won't need one unless you find you are having problems removing the water from the system.
Brian
From: JimK (JUSTTHE4OFUS) [#14]
18 Apr 2006
To: RALLYGUY (RALLYGUY1) [#13] 18 Apr 2006
Thanks to everyone, once again the forum proves its worth. And to think I doubted Al Gore when he invented the Internet!
Jim
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#15]
18 Apr 2006
To: JimK (JUSTTHE4OFUS) [#14] 18 Apr 2006