Full Version: How Thick
From: RALLYGUY (RALLYGUY1) [#8]
30 Apr 2006
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#4] 30 Apr 2006
The surface tension of a doming product could be changed slightly by heat. I have had this happen when trying to coat products with a sublimatable coating. I tested some ornaments by dipping....Thinking I had a great way to deal with the coating process, I hung them in an oven and found that as the product heated up through it's curing cycle, the viscosity changed substantially, and the lions share of the coating ended up in the catch tray after dripping off the piece. The initial viscosity led me to believe that there would be a relatively thick coating on the product. Needless to say I was dissapointed in the end results, and waste.
It could be possible that when pushing the envelope of the surface tension of the epoxy, that heating it ever so slightly with the lamps could change the surface tension to the point that it rolls over the defining edge of the product.
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#9]
30 Apr 2006
To: RALLYGUY (RALLYGUY1) [#8] 30 Apr 2006
In watching a demo of the UV coated photo (ceramic) plates, at last year's NBM show, in Long Beach, CA, I noticed that their (UV cure) coating material was in a bottle, kept in what looked like a baby bottle warmer.
I'm guessing that was to keep the fluid at a viscosity, where it would be easier to maintain an even flow, as it was rolled around the bowl of the plate.
Love the story about your coating experiment. >.<
From: Mick [#10]
30 Apr 2006
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#9] 30 Apr 2006
From: Rodney Gold (RODNEY_GOLD) [#11]
30 Apr 2006
To: ALL
The smaller the area , the higher the dome you can build , height of dome actually is a function of viscosity as well as area. A coin with a hole cut in it will dome perfectly but isnt as easy an application as a solid coin.
Not that I want to take any business away from anyone , but I have no idea why ppl are using the UV curable doming for small production runs as you can buy real cheap 2 part cartridge based systems with applicator guns and static mixers that work brilliantly for those small runs and have the viscosity needed to build large domes. Apply the epoxy/urethane and leave the item to dry in a warmish moisture and dust free environment (Like a largeish cardboard box with a low wattage light bulb inside) , you wont have spill over , tacky surfaces and any other problems if you just observe one rule with these 2 part mixtures - no moisture.
From: Mike (SPACE_ENGRAVERS) [#12]
1 May 2006
To: Rodney Gold (RODNEY_GOLD) [#11] 1 May 2006
Rodney,
Can I still get the flexible epoxy in the type you are talking about? Also, do you know of any place I can get a small sample to test? I'm really interested in having this as a extra service I can offer but would probably only be on small runs for right now.
Mike
From: LipChip [#13]
2 May 2006
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#9] 2 May 2006
The UV coated photo "ceramic" plates glazes for doming are the "exact" same UV glazes I use and sell with our "Crystal Shield" machines. The UV glazes, in my opinion have the best up to the edge surface retention when doing products like dog tags, etc. We've done hundreds of test with our UV glazes, and have the support of companies like Roland who make the Metaza machines, and Brian Kim (Dr. Metaza) which sells our products through the Mattman Enterprises distributor. Also a side note: I've use these both warmed and not warmed both with the same absolutely excellent results.
I also showed Frank (the owner of Chewbarka), products I direct printed and then UV Glaze/domed. Frank said he loved the products. It gives a "full color photo" side to the side that is not engraved. Die cutters can be made to fit our PSA (pressure sensative adhesive) papers as well.