Full Version: Preference for inks

From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#12]
 9 May 2006
To: logojohn [#11] 9 May 2006

The one really good thing I can say about Sawgrass is that their Power Driver is very good and almost foolproof, judging from a long time ago when I used their ink. The booklet that came with it giving the RGB values to use for the PMS colors was quite accurate also.

From: Mike (MIKEN) [#13]
 9 May 2006
To: ALL

For what it's worth there's a real difference in paper for sublimation which I found out the hard way. Recently had to replace a large sign order because I chose to switch papers from one order to the next. colors were definitely different and it took me a while to identify the paper as the culprit.

From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#14]
 9 May 2006
To: Mike (MIKEN) [#13] 10 May 2006

Mike,

For the benefit of the readers, could you tell us what type of paper you used, on which type of substrate and why one proved better than the other?

Thanks,

EDITED: 9 May 2006 by DGL

From: logojohn [#15]
 9 May 2006
To: Mike (MIKEN) [#13] 10 May 2006

I am also changing paper. I thought I was using artimium ink and Johnson Plastics listed truepix as the best paper for that.

Since I discovered I actually have Sawgrass ink I am switching to paper for Sawgrass ink.(ACCUPLOT) JP also has a generic Sawgrass approved version.
Their online site doesn't say which paper is best for which ink but their catalog does.

With limited laser capacity the sublimation was a godsend. We were able to take a 800 piece order for small plates I would not have had time to do on the laser. The asi people are also doing several hundred "tent" signs it would have been impossible to do with a laser or engraver in a short time.

 

.

EDITED: 9 May 2006 by LOGOJOHN

From: Mike (MIKEN) [#16]
 10 May 2006
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#14] 10 May 2006

David:

The substrate was Unisub sheet stock and the first paper was Textprint XP, the second paper was TruePix. I'm not saying one is superior to the other but that they produce different colors.

I tried numerous color tests on the TruePix before I realized that the paper not the ink was my problem.

Just to pass this along--I bought quite a lot of precut Unisub from a closeout site on EBay. My motive was basically to provide cheap material for experimenting with my new 1280 toy.

Well, I came up with the idea of making boutique type signs 4" x 4" out of this scrap material. I made a couple and sent them to a customer who had one of these cutsie type shops. She loved it and promptly ordered 20 (that paid for my material) it was when she ordered the second 20 that I ran into the problem.

MikeN

From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#17]
 10 May 2006
To: Mike (MIKEN) [#16] 10 May 2006

Thank you Mike.

Textprint XP is a hi-release paper, meaning much of the ink stays on top of the paper, allowing more dye to release to the substrate.

Great for fabric and (in my experience) ceramic tiles, but problematic for metal and FRP.

TruePix (sp) is a great "general purpose" transfer paper.

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