Full Version: Preference for inks
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#9]
8 May 2006
To: Swami [#6] 8 May 2006
I never said ArTainium is the way to go. I just said that's what I use.
If I didn't already have a good relationship with a sublimation supplier, and many files adjusted, color-wise, for ArTainium, I'd probably use TOG's Sublibrite.
That personal decision would be based on the quality of the ink and it's price, as compared to the other options of Sublijet (Sawgrass) and ArTainium (Tropical Graphics, a subsidiary of Sawgrass).
You'll find, that printing through the Epson print driver, will most-often render (mostly) accurate colors, with most ink.
In reading TOG's instructions for using their ICC profiles, although something I've never heard of in other ink supplier's instructions, they instruct you to convert your graphic to a bitmap image before printing.
As always, we're happy to help in any way possible, but your ink supplier should be your first source for information pertaining to their products.
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#10]
8 May 2006
To: logojohn [#7] 8 May 2006
If working with spot colors, (meaning individual colors not co-mingling with others), have you printed swatches of color squares to the various substrates you use?
Having that reference on hand, along with their corresponding RGB or CMYK color values, can significantly cut down on the dart throwing.
I won't tell you how to spend your money, but $35, compared to valuable time spent, manually working on color management, is a small investment.
From: logojohn [#11]
8 May 2006
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#10] 8 May 2006
It turns out I am using sawgrass ink. The boxes only say that in the fine print.
I order from Johnson Plastics and they carry both and I thought I was using artanium.
I heard from them and they are sending me the sawgrass power driver so hopefully that will help.
One of the ASI people have another c86 hooked up to their mac. It does not have a separate driver but has an icc profile available through sawgrass that should work.
I did print squares of blues and reds since I needed it and didn't have time to do them all. It does help some for reference.
Hopefully with the new driver it won't take as much work.
.
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#12]
9 May 2006
To: logojohn [#11] 9 May 2006
From: Mike (MIKEN) [#13]
9 May 2006
To: ALL
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#14]
9 May 2006
To: Mike (MIKEN) [#13] 10 May 2006
Mike,
For the benefit of the readers, could you tell us what type of paper you used, on which type of substrate and why one proved better than the other?
Thanks,
EDITED: 9 May 2006 by DGL
From: logojohn [#15]
9 May 2006
To: Mike (MIKEN) [#13] 10 May 2006
I am also changing paper. I thought I was using artimium ink and Johnson Plastics listed truepix as the best paper for that.
Since I discovered I actually have Sawgrass ink I am switching to paper for Sawgrass ink.(ACCUPLOT) JP also has a generic Sawgrass approved version.
Their online site doesn't say which paper is best for which ink but their catalog does.
With limited laser capacity the sublimation was a godsend. We were able to take a 800 piece order for small plates I would not have had time to do on the laser. The asi people are also doing several hundred "tent" signs it would have been impossible to do with a laser or engraver in a short time.
.
EDITED: 9 May 2006 by LOGOJOHN
From: Mike (MIKEN) [#16]
10 May 2006
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#14] 10 May 2006
David:
The substrate was Unisub sheet stock and the first paper was Textprint XP, the second paper was TruePix. I'm not saying one is superior to the other but that they produce different colors.
I tried numerous color tests on the TruePix before I realized that the paper not the ink was my problem.
Just to pass this along--I bought quite a lot of precut Unisub from a closeout site on EBay. My motive was basically to provide cheap material for experimenting with my new 1280 toy.
Well, I came up with the idea of making boutique type signs 4" x 4" out of this scrap material. I made a couple and sent them to a customer who had one of these cutsie type shops. She loved it and promptly ordered 20 (that paid for my material) it was when she ordered the second 20 that I ran into the problem.
MikeN
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#17]
10 May 2006
To: Mike (MIKEN) [#16] 10 May 2006
Textprint XP is a hi-release paper, meaning much of the ink stays on top of the paper, allowing more dye to release to the substrate.
Great for fabric and (in my experience) ceramic tiles, but problematic for metal and FRP.
TruePix (sp) is a great "general purpose" transfer paper.