Full Version: Shear question
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#4]
11 May 2006
To: basehorawards [#3] 11 May 2006
If your shear is anything like mine, I have a solution.
Cut a few exact size pieces of flex from scrap. Rez-N-Bond them together so that one edge is perfect. Then that thick edge can go on the stop, and the proper layer to the lower blade.
The other thing I thought of, but never did, is a lasered staircase. End to the stop and the stair of the right dimension to the lower blade.
From: basehorawards [#5]
11 May 2006
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#4] 11 May 2006
I like the idea of gluing them together.
I have a pushblock for my table saw that has a staircase on the back corner for blade height. It works as a good starting point but I always have to micro adjust. This shear is more precise than a table saw so I think I will act on my thought and follow your lead and glue them together.
Thanks!
From: Bill (ALBILLBERT2000) [#6]
11 May 2006
To: basehorawards [#3] 12 May 2006
James.. I took some old engraving stock.. and cut pieces.. 8" long to exact sizes double checking with a micrometer.. and drilled a hole in the end of them.. so.. example.. I have .25" .50" .625" .75" .875" so on to over 4 inches.. marking them with a perm marker.. or have a set engraved.. the marker is faster.. and attach them to a chain like you would see a gap tool for cars.. so anytime i need a size.. I just use my pre=made guide and done.. exact sizes everytime.. I though eveyone did this..
Bill
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#7]
11 May 2006
To: Bill (ALBILLBERT2000) [#6] 11 May 2006
Things like this are reinvented every time someone gets fed up with what they are doing.
Glad the subject was brought up.
There are now three solutions to the problem.
Thanks.
From: basehorawards [#8]
12 May 2006
To: Bill (ALBILLBERT2000) [#6] 12 May 2006
Bill,
Like most men (women can laugh here) I think more than I do.
I like your idea of chaining them together.
Now all I have to do is come up with a better stop. My hands do not like the thumb screw on my shear and using pliers is a pain. I would also like it to be longer. Well time to think some more.
Thanks for the tip,
From: Bill (ALBILLBERT2000) [#9]
12 May 2006
To: basehorawards [#8] 12 May 2006
I saw your post about thumb screws... and dont understand.. our shear has large knobs easy to grab onto and tighten.. what exactly do you have.. ours is a basic shear with no special attachments other than a perfectly square brand stop for the table side of the shear on the right side of the blade is just a square rod with a round stop both have a large knob to tighten..
The pre cut to size blanks that I use can be used for either side of the blade.
Bill
EDITED: 12 May 2006 by ALBILLBERT2000
From: basehorawards [#10]
12 May 2006
To: Bill (ALBILLBERT2000) [#9] 15 May 2006
From: John (JOHNRMONTG) [#11]
15 May 2006
To: basehorawards [#5] 15 May 2006
James... I know what you mean about that silly thumb screw and within the first week of owning my shear I went down to the local hardware store and got a knob that is about 2 inches in diameter that just so happens to have the same screw thread as the collar that fits onto the shaft on the side of the shear. The ease of use now is incredibly easy to use and doesn't need to utilize a pliars to get it tight enough. Try it ... you'll like it!
Good luck!
From: RALLYGUY (RALLYGUY1) [#12]
15 May 2006
To: basehorawards [#10] 15 May 2006
Hi James,
For getting you close to the proper size when using your backgage, you could set the shear up to a known measurement, then scribe the bar on each side. Once you have done this, all you have to do is move the backgage to the scribe, and you will be very close to your standard size. My recommendation would be to scribe every half inch or so...Use your ruler to get close, then hone in on the scribe lines.
Hope this helps........
Ps. Go get yourself the larger knobs that were recommended ;)
Well worth the effort.
From: basehorawards [#13]
15 May 2006
To: RALLYGUY (RALLYGUY1) [#12] 15 May 2006
Brian,
I am going to get the larger knob. I will also scribe the lines. I did laser a ruler for my radial arm saw and made a stop that slides on it similar to the shear so I do not know why I did not think about doing the same thing on the shear. Doh! I wonder how Cermark would work?
From: RALLYGUY (RALLYGUY1) [#14]
15 May 2006
To: basehorawards [#13] 15 May 2006
Hi James,
Cermark would probably work great.....You would have to cermark a ruler on the shafts.....Scribe the first inch mark..... Line that up, and do the rest based off of that mark. Most backgage rods have the ability to be brought in or out for adjustment (at least on our shears they are like that) You might be lucky enough to have that final adjustment if you need it.
Good Luck! :)
From: Bill (ALBILLBERT2000) [#15]
15 May 2006
To: basehorawards [#10] 16 May 2006
From: basehorawards [#16]
16 May 2006
To: Bill (ALBILLBERT2000) [#15] 16 May 2006
Bill,
Mine does not (yet) have a left side stop. What I have is a 6 sided aluminum bar to the right of the blade. It screws into the side of the shear. On that slides an aluminum ring that has the small thumb screw for tightening. Now that I have figured out how I can use a bigger knob on short plates I will be getting one. With the bigger knob and cermark ruler on the bar and cutting standard sized blanks I will be shearing with the best of them.
Right after I get my spare blade so that I can get the old one sharpened and the nick from the ss ruler my son tried to shear removed. :'-( >.< :-(
From: Ken D. (KDEVORY) [#17]
16 May 2006
To: basehorawards [#16] 16 May 2006