Full Version: Wine Glass Question

From: PenMan [#1]
 16 May 2006
To: ALL

OK, OK...I know I should not have opened the bottle of wine before I sand blasted it but......actually it turned out fine thanks to advice given here. Now I have a question about wine glasses. I got a roll of lasermask from Rayzist when I got the sand blaster which worked fine on the bottle. I used the laser to raster the design and then blasted away. However, it is too thick (ridgid?) to conform to the glasses. What type of mask do you use to conform to the glasses? If it is thinner and more flexible, do you need to lower the pressure when blasting? Any other tips? Thanks for all the help!

From: Pete (AWARDMASTERS) [#2]
 16 May 2006
To: PenMan [#1] 17 May 2006

First, I fill the glass with wine to make sure it does not leak. If it doesn't leak, I drink the wine and put the glass away to age. Of course, if it does leak - I lap up the wine and throw the glass away.

From: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#3]
 16 May 2006
To: PenMan [#1] 17 May 2006

Chris.

Almost all wine glasses have a compound curve to them. You will be hard pressed to find a laser mask that works effectively on wine glasses.

If this is a market you plan to get into more aggressively, I would recommend considering photoresist materials from Photobrasive or Razist. Even this material requires an acquired skill to apply it effectively.

One other process was developed by our own LazerDude (Chuck Burke). He used a spray can of Plasti-Dip to apply multiple thin layers, then laser engraved and blasted.

Expressions Engraved
Etched Wine Glasses

EDITED: 16 Oct 2010 by DATAKES

From: Franklin (FW_HAYNES) [#4]
 16 May 2006
To: PenMan [#1] 17 May 2006

Are you sandblasting the wine glass or lasering. If you are lasering the glass, just use a wet paper towel. Less hassle than creating a mask for a sandblaster.

From: deeb (DEBRIPPETOE) [#5]
 17 May 2006
To: Franklin (FW_HAYNES) [#4] 17 May 2006

I have tried the wet paper towel, however, the quality of the engraving is much worse than sandblasting. Am I doing something wrong?

From: PenMan [#6]
 17 May 2006
To: Pete (AWARDMASTERS) [#2] 17 May 2006

Maybe that's my problem. I do it the same way.

From: PenMan [#7]
 17 May 2006
To: deeb (DEBRIPPETOE) [#5] 17 May 2006

I agree. I have used the wet paper towel and it turns out OK. After posting I decided to try a couple of layers of painters tape. I then lasered it and then sand blasted it. It turns out better than just lasering but I was afraid to go deep enough with just the tape as a mask. Even the painters tape was hard to get on without bubbles, wrinkles, etc. I might have to try the spray mask idea from Chuck. I'm participating in a wine festival over Memorial Day weekend and wanted to have some bottles and glasses to show and take orders. I also wanted to be able to show the difference between just lasering and sand blasting. I primarily sell turned wood bottle stoppers there.

From: deeb (DEBRIPPETOE) [#8]
 17 May 2006
To: PenMan [#6] 18 May 2006

I use the rayzist photmask. It works excellent! A tad expensive.

From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#9]
 17 May 2006
To: deeb (DEBRIPPETOE) [#5] 17 May 2006

I have found that contrary to all advice here the only way to get most glass to engrave is to use about 4 times the power that shows a good mark.

I always get some edge fracturing, really small but not up to my quality levels. It also left fragments that you could not see but would stick in your fingers. I did a test of the higher power after trying every piece of advice. It gave me a nearly sandblasted result with no fracturing. When I say nearly sandblasted result I mean that glass was removed and a blasted look was achieved.

EDITED: 17 May 2006 by HARVEY-ONLY

From: deeb (DEBRIPPETOE) [#10]
 17 May 2006
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#9] 17 May 2006

When you bump up the power, do you still use a wet paper towel? Can you share a power setting, speed and wattage? I will try it to see if I get a quality comparable to blasting.

Thanks!

From: Bob (BOBBELT) [#11]
 17 May 2006
To: deeb (DEBRIPPETOE) [#10] 18 May 2006

I don't think you can get a quality comparable to sand carving. At first I was very happy with just the laser on glass (and still am for photos), but after getting a small blast cabnet, I don't offer straight lasering any more. I always follow up with the sand blaster. There is just no comparison to me.
Bob

From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#12]
 17 May 2006
To: deeb (DEBRIPPETOE) [#10] 18 May 2006

25 Watt 40 IPS unit.

Looking up the settings I get 100% power, 50% speed.

No towel or anything. Just let her rip.

I tried soap solution, wet towels, wet newspaper, just needed slightly different settings all around 50% power and 100% speed. This did a far better job. It will NOT do photographs.

From: logojohn [#13]
 17 May 2006
To: ALL

I have swithched to dish liquid soap with no towel on glass.

Details in this archive message.
http://www.engravingetc.org/forum/index.php?webtag=EE&msg=357.8

.

From: Bob (BOBBELT) [#14]
 17 May 2006
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#12] 17 May 2006

Harvey,
I use 100p 40s 300ppi 3ID and process the photo in PhotoGrav. The picture here is really a bad representation of what it looks like in person, but gets the point across I think. I do photos on glass fairly often, but I always sand carve everything else.
Bob

From: Ken D. (KDEVORY) [#15]
 17 May 2006
To: Bob (BOBBELT) [#14] 17 May 2006

Nice work. Did you use any color fill?

From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#16]
 17 May 2006
To: Bob (BOBBELT) [#14] 17 May 2006

If that is a bad representation, I'd fall off my chair seeing a good one.

Your power settings are close to mine. Very interesting.

I am not sure what 3ID is, is it a diameter?

Apparently 300 PPI, (reduces the DPI to at least as low as 300), is a good value for glass.

From: Myyk [#17]
 17 May 2006
To: ALL

To reiterate, I now laser at 1000 dpi. 100% power through signwriters application tape on glasses, then sandblast lightly using the application tape as a mask. All with a 25watt GCC Mercury.
It's the only way I can achieve consistent results on glass with the laser as I find that glass varies so much.
Also easier than photo-resist. The application tape seems to conform to compound curves reasonably well, and the resulting work tends to be consistently straighter round the glass than photo resist or vinyl.

From: Bob (BOBBELT) [#18]
 17 May 2006
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#16] 18 May 2006

Harvey,
ID is image density (same as DPI) (I have a ULS M-360, 40w). Glass seems to work best at a setting of 3 with the PPI set at 300. Like I said, I can laser photos with this, but the lettering and other non-photos I very much prefer blasting.
Bob

From: Bob (BOBBELT) [#19]
 17 May 2006
To: Ken D. (KDEVORY) [#15] 18 May 2006

Ken,
I do spray paint bottles, and sometimes will hand paint small flowers or other things. It can be a pain, but I've recently found that Krylon Fusion paint seems to do real well.
Bob

From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#20]
 18 May 2006
To: Bob (BOBBELT) [#18] 18 May 2006

Thanks, I did not recognize the shorthand. I did like the driver better when it gave the ID as DPI. (3 is 333 DPI).

EDITED: 18 May 2006 by HARVEY-ONLY

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