Full Version: Wine Glass Question
From: Ken D. (KDEVORY) [#15]
17 May 2006
To: Bob (BOBBELT) [#14] 17 May 2006
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#16]
17 May 2006
To: Bob (BOBBELT) [#14] 17 May 2006
If that is a bad representation, I'd fall off my chair seeing a good one.
Your power settings are close to mine. Very interesting.
I am not sure what 3ID is, is it a diameter?
Apparently 300 PPI, (reduces the DPI to at least as low as 300), is a good value for glass.
From: Myyk [#17]
17 May 2006
To: ALL
To reiterate, I now laser at 1000 dpi. 100% power through signwriters application tape on glasses, then sandblast lightly using the application tape as a mask. All with a 25watt GCC Mercury.
It's the only way I can achieve consistent results on glass with the laser as I find that glass varies so much.
Also easier than photo-resist. The application tape seems to conform to compound curves reasonably well, and the resulting work tends to be consistently straighter round the glass than photo resist or vinyl.
From: Bob (BOBBELT) [#18]
17 May 2006
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#16] 18 May 2006
Harvey,
ID is image density (same as DPI) (I have a ULS M-360, 40w). Glass seems to work best at a setting of 3 with the PPI set at 300. Like I said, I can laser photos with this, but the lettering and other non-photos I very much prefer blasting.
Bob
From: Bob (BOBBELT) [#19]
17 May 2006
To: Ken D. (KDEVORY) [#15] 18 May 2006
Ken,
I do spray paint bottles, and sometimes will hand paint small flowers or other things. It can be a pain, but I've recently found that Krylon Fusion paint seems to do real well.
Bob
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#20]
18 May 2006
To: Bob (BOBBELT) [#18] 18 May 2006
EDITED: 18 May 2006 by HARVEY-ONLY
From: gingem [#21]
25 Jun 2006
To: ALL
I'm sorry all of you laser people, there is no comparison between laser engraving glass and sandblasting. Laser on glass shatters the edges and besides you can't get any depth to the cut. Photo resist is the best way and when all is compared, it is the least expensive.
I do an awful lot of crystal and glass, the cost of photo resist is approximately $0.06 per square inch. On an average toasting glass that means you might be looking at $0.50. All other costs are labor which you would have in setting up your machine so they are a wash. I charge $20-30.00 a pair for blasting crystal toasting glasses which total actual time takes 15 minutes start to finish.
Yes there is some learning curve but that is in anything we do in this industry. As far as the curves on the glass the orange is a way but here is another that I use on a lot of pieces. By the way I only do this for pieces that I will always be doing again.
1-Take masking tape and put it across the area that you want to engrave.
2- Turn the glass upside down so that you are using the straight edge of the top of the glass for your alignment.
3- Draw as many lines as you need for what you are going to engrave on the glass making them parallel with the top of the glass. I use a vertical height gauge modified to hold a wet erase marker.
4- Make sure you mark the center of all of the lines.
5- Peel of the masking tape from the glass and apply it to a flat piece of paper. You might have to make cuts in this to make it lay flat, just as you would to put a mask on the glass itself.
6- Take this and scan it into whatever graphics program you are using (I use Corel) and trace the lines so that you have a vector setup for your glass.
7- Now save the vector lines as a blank template for the glass or vase so that you can always import it in the future.
8- Type your text and select the lines you want it on and fit text to path. The mask will look crazy, put it will make your lines exactly straight and easier to put on the curved surface.
Sorry for the length of this just got carried away. Hope it might help
From: Myyk [#22]
25 Jun 2006
To: gingem [#21] 25 Jun 2006
Way too much work for me!
All glasses are not the same, so you would have to have a number of different templates. Same goes for inscriptions with different numbers of lines of text.
I guess you could do it that quickly if you have dedicated workshop areas for exposing, washing out, etc., but I don't, so can't come near to your time of 15 minutes.
Enjoyed your great informative post though. Thanks!!
From: logojohn [#23]
25 Jun 2006
To: Myyk [#22] 25 Jun 2006
We give the customers a choice. Many times their short deadlines are critical and their only option is laser. The laser can produce a good quality look that most people are happy with.
We have a good outside vendor if they can wait longer.
We don't have the time, expertise or equipment to sandblast in house.
We have a lot of very detailed logos including small text that would be difficult with sand blasting.
.
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#24]
25 Jun 2006
To: gingem [#21] 25 Jun 2006
From: Engravin' Dave (DATAKES) [#25]
25 Jun 2006
To: gingem [#21] 25 Jun 2006
Hi Bill,
Thank you for sharing. I use this technique on one-of-a-kind larger pieces as well, primarilly because I want it to look it's best and am able to charge for the extra time it takes.
From: Zonas [#26]
27 Jun 2006
To: gingem [#21] 27 Jun 2006
Our steps are very similar, only I don't turn the item upside down. I have made a bracket (similar to an upside down T) that I can slide my dry erase marker up and down for marking. With a ruler this lets me jot down the height I drew my lines at so when I apply the resist its at the same exact location. I agree with you on the look. I'm looking into using a laser for 'cutting' my resist on some large flat orders I do, but I will still sandblast them. For flutes, bottles, etc. I have a old cylindical engraver with a diamond cutter - to me that this is the quickest way to do flutes/wine glasses. I can have a set done in about the same amount of time it takes the computer to boot up. Cutting with the diamond gives such a nice cut that I'm able to offer many color fill choices.
Zona
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