Full Version: Cutting rigid laminate
From: sparks (WAYNE916) [#1]
26 May 2006
To: ALL
I have just got into engraving 3mm rigid laminate ( yellow/black/yellow sandwich stuff). I have now just received my first order for 80 engraved panels, the panels are 145mm x 215mm, I have no problem with the engraving, my engraver only holds one tool and i would need to change the cutter to achieve a sharp profile, this could make the job very long winded. I need to cut the profile out quicker with out chipping the top or bottom layer, any recommendations on what type of cutting equipment I should use and if circular saw, what width/no of teeth on the blade I should be looking at.
One other question is it possible to colour file on darvic after engraving using a screen printing process?
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#2]
27 May 2006
To: sparks (WAYNE916) [#1] 27 May 2006
In both cases (profiling and cutting rigid laminate on a table/safety saw) you'll need to use carbide-tipped cutters and saw blades.
It could be that a quarter-round cutter will be your best bet for profiling, because of their ability to remove the waste material or swarf much more efficiently than half-round cutters.
I think a typical safety saw uses a 1/16" blade and the table saws I've seen fitted with carbide-tipped blades have been 1/8" wide. Not sure about the tooth-count of each.
I believe acid-etched signs are color-filled, through a silkscreen process, so it may be possible that an engraved sign can be color-filled with that method.
I think that would depend on the depth of the engraved image and how closely the screen can be matched to the engraved characters.
From: JHayes55 [#3]
27 May 2006
To: sparks (WAYNE916) [#1] 27 May 2006
Wayne - give me a little more information on the laminate your using - do you have a company name of it, website with more info about the laminate or even the supplier you get it from. With that info I might be able to give you a little more input. We do a lot of signage and depending on the product different ways of cutting produce very different results.
Thanks
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#4]
27 May 2006
To: sparks (WAYNE916) [#1] 27 May 2006
If it is square cuts, not shapes, you probably can use a table saw.
Not knowing the material I can only suggest a generic blade that works well on acrylic and most plastics well.
The generic specs are a non-Ferris cutting blade, C4 carbide teeth, at least 80 on a 10" blade. It should be a triple chip design, but there are now two triple chip designs, you need the one with the center chip tooth the same length as the other two. They are now making blades with a protruding center chip tooth. It works better on metals, but will cause a small chip on the bottom surface when you exit acrylic. The C4 carbide will last for years doing a lot of acrylic before needing resharpening.
From: sparks (WAYNE916) [#5]
27 May 2006
To: JHayes55 [#3] 30 May 2006
I believe the Rigid Laminate Also known as Traffolyte or Formica
see web page for pic and details
http://www.suregrave.com/rigid-laminate.html
Material: Multi-layered Hight Pressure Laminate
Finish: Gloss
Sheet size: 1220 x 1220mm, 1220 x 610mm
Thickness: (3 ply) 1/16", 1/8", some 5 ply
Uses: Interor Signs
Cutter type: Rotating carbide
Cutter depth: No less than .012"
Fabrication: Saws, Drills and Bevels
Other features: Suitable for double-sided engraving
regards
wayne
From: RALLYGUY (RALLYGUY1) [#6]
27 May 2006
To: sparks (WAYNE916) [#1] Unread
You may consider using a template and a 3 flute following (more flutes, better finish) bit with a router......
If you have the ability, you can clamp several pieces together and do them all at one time if your following bit is deep enough.
Cut the piece close to size, clamp or fasten to the jig then route to final size.
Create the template then use the following bit to create copies.
Hope this helps....