Full Version: What's the difference

From: cindy (ROBERTM) [#1]
 14 Jun 2006
To: ALL

What is the difference in laser toner transfer and sublimation. I know its using a different printer and different ink, but looking at the end results what is the difference. Does one method look better than another, and if so how much better. And then there is screen printed.
Does it just depend on the application. If I was interested in getting into color name badges what would look the best and also be the best cost wise?

Thanks Cindy

EDITED: 14 Jun 2006 by DGL


From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#2]
 14 Jun 2006
To: cindy (ROBERTM) [#1] 14 Jun 2006

Cindy,

Sublimation relies on an interaction between the ink (and/or sublimation laser toner) and a polymer or polyester content in the substrate.

OEM laser toner (non-magnetic) is applied to various substrates (that don't need a polymer or polyester content) through the use of a special transfer paper.

The OEM laser toner/VersaTrans (or similar brand of) transfer paper will be the most cost-effective method of creating full color name badges.

I use sublimation for my name badges and have no personal experience with OEM toner/VersaTrans paper.

Just basing my opinion on reading many posts on the subject.

Hopefully, someone with experience in that area, will come along and elaborate.

From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#3]
 14 Jun 2006
To: cindy (ROBERTM) [#1] 14 Jun 2006

Sublimation requires more heat and expertise to produce a matching color. It is scratch resistant because the color is IN the surface coating. Items must be surface coated to accept sublimation toner, ink. It cannot be used for acrylics due to the heat required.

Color Laser Toner Transfer (CLTT) does just that, it transfers the toner from a laser color printer to the surface of an item. It is standard OEM toner for a printer that does not use a magnetic toner system. It is far easier to control the colors. The items do not need to be specially coated for this process, except glass and raw metals that are polished need to be enamel spray painted, clear or frosted, so the toner can grab. It is a less durable color, it can be scratched on some surfaces. It gives far better color on silver or gold aluminum engraving stock, quite scratch resistant on these items. The laser toner is far from a clear toner, sublimation inks are translucent to a much larger extent.

Silk screening lays more ink on an object, and very difficult to achieve a picture. It is a process used for multiples of one exact piece. It is very cost ineffective in runs of under 50 pieces in single color, and needs a run of much higher numbers for multiple colors. It is all in the setup and screen charges. It lays down a fairly scratch resistant set of colors between the CLTT and the sublimated items.


From: Mick [#4]
 14 Jun 2006
To: cindy (ROBERTM) [#1] 14 Jun 2006

Cindy
Give me a call for samples of the OEM toner badges, etc..
Can't go into detail here (not a commercial folder) B-) 
Mick
800-440-6847


From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#5]
 14 Jun 2006
To: Mick [#4] 14 Jun 2006

Moderator's privilege is invoked for this post.

Mick's paper is wonderful for the process of CLTT. He has also always been an upstanding business person.


From: logojohn [#6]
 14 Jun 2006
To: Mick [#4] 14 Jun 2006

Is there a special plastic for laser toner transfer?
Is it different than the fiberglass reinforced plastic used for sublimation?

Is it as thick as the FRP?
Does it profile cut better with a rotary cutter? or even with the laser?

I assume any normal rowmark or IPI plastic would melt even with the laser toner.

.

From: Mick [#7]
 14 Jun 2006
To: logojohn [#6] 16 Jun 2006

Logojohm
I have found most plastics to work quite well. I bought a fairly large quantity of what I felt was the best white plastic for not warping and excellent adhesion. It is totally different than the FRP from Unisub. I have it in 1/16" for name badges etc. in stock in 12" X 18" sheets. It cuts beautifully with the laser, we have had it cut with both a 40 watt and a 120 watt laser so far. Haven't tried a rotary cutter but I think it would be fine. My little 12" shear works very well also.
The Rowmark and similar materials for engraving work very well with the OEM toner too.
Mick
Cactus Equipment & Supplies
800-440-6847

EDITED: 14 Jun 2006 by MICK


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