Full Version: Xenetech depth setting
From: Ian (IANHR) [#1]
3 Jul 2006
To: ALL
Hi all - I need to engrave into leaded brass with a lacquer finish and a protective plastic film, so I can't use a nose cone. My Xenetech 1624 has a proximity sensor but I can't quite get the fine tuning I want. I think it relates to the Z float in the software, which I've set to .001 but I'm still getting too deep a cut with my first pass. This material is pretty much the mainstay of what I do so I need to get it right. Any suggestions as to where I can get more contol? Do I adjust the collar and spring beside the sensor? I'm using EngraveLab software, with the Xenetech driver. Of course it doesn't help the material is almost always warped, but that's another story.
The other thing is, I'm beginning to believe there's a dance I haven't learned yet, like starting an English motorcyle. What is the order of turning things on? APU, computer, driver, then software? Doesn't always work. Am I not waiting long enough for the bits to communicate? Thanks for your patience and help!
Ian
From: logojohn [#2]
3 Jul 2006
To: Ian (IANHR) [#1] 3 Jul 2006
At every cutter down, (each letter) it will detect when the cutter or nose cone first contacts something and if set fast could drill well into the material first.
It you are using a rotating cutter withoug a nose cone, you will start drilling into the material before it senses anything.
You can use the "manual cutter set at start".
The job will start and go over to the first character and stop without coming down.
You lower the cutter with the z toggle switch on the pendant.
Approach the material with the cutter spinning so the belt won't hang up.
When it is within about 1/8" turn the spindle off.
Place a piece of tape or something else on the material so it doesn't get scratched.
Lower the cutter to the surface and then the amount of depth you want for the first pass. (The spring will absorb the pressure so it will not go into the material until the cutter is spinning.) You can also just stop at the surface and increase the depth in the setup dialog and alter the amount again for the second pass to go deeper.
There are detailed insturctions in the xenetech help menu if you enter "Manual Cutter Set" in the index search.
Your material will need to be exactly level and an even thickness or it will be deeper at one end.
Depending on what it is, it is sometimes better to tape a 1/32 or flexibrass thickness of scrap plastic over it and use the nosecone for even depth with the auto sensing. This has much less chance for variances in depth and you can control the depth exactly by just turning the micromometer on the spindle. If you use a wide "big foot" nose cone you can reuse the scrap and not have cutter fall-in unless you have routed areas over 1" wide.
.
From: joyce (JLADY) [#3]
3 Jul 2006
To: Ian (IANHR) [#1] 3 Jul 2006
I was told to set the z float at .150 from my xenetech rep.
Yes adjust the tension knob that is right next to the proximity sensor (try bringing it up at least to 1/4" or even less from the top). Also take the protective film of the material. This is for diamond drag, you didn't say what you were doing??
EDITED: 3 Jul 2006 by JLADY
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#4]
3 Jul 2006
To: Ian (IANHR) [#1] 3 Jul 2006
Ian,
I've done a lot of that type of work.
As LJ says, if the material (and/or the table) isn't completely flat, all the King's horses won't give you a consistent depth of cut.
To make life easier, by all means, use a sacrificial piece of thin engraving stock, over the surface of your leaded brass.
Using a nose depth regulator, you'll get a consistent depth.
Alternatively, I've used a layer or two of "light tack" masking tape, in place of a sacrificial sheet of engraving stock, with good results.
If you use tape, you'll want to make sure the downward pressure of the spindle is on the light side, but heavy enough not to float.
EDITED: 3 Jul 2006 by DGL
From: Ian (IANHR) [#5]
3 Jul 2006
To: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#4] 3 Jul 2006
Thanks for the replies. Actually I'm routing the stock, .075 lettering and lines. I tried the masking tape, but it just tore up and I couldn't see the damage the chips were doing until too late. When I tried taking off the plastic, it seemed like the heat from the chips melted the lacquer and make little patterns when I oxidized it.
I'm going to try raising the nose so it doesn't contact the metal but the vacuum will still work and lighten the pressure again. Apparently I can use a negative factor on the Z float. I've made all kinds of clamps and jigs to hold the metal as flat as I can, and slight variations were not too noticeable when I did this job of my old Meistergram, so I think I should be able to get better depth control with thes more sophisticated machine. Anyway, I'll plug along and report my progress.
Ian
From: Ian (IANHR) [#6]
3 Jul 2006
To: Ian (IANHR) [#5] 3 Jul 2006
Actually, rereading all your posts, I think the sacrificial piece and the nosecone might be the way to go. I did read the manual cutter setting in the index, but your explanation made it clearer. Thanks again.
Ian
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#7]
3 Jul 2006
To: Ian (IANHR) [#5] 3 Jul 2006
I forgot to mention a crucial point.
When I route metal with a nose cone, while using light-tack tape, I use a steady stream of shop air, to keep metal chips from gathering beneath the nose cone.
A vacuum-nose works fairly well, if you can keep the nose close to the surface of the metal, but direct contact creates more suction.
Of course, you can't have direct contact. :-)
From: Ian (IANHR) [#8]
5 Jul 2006
To: ALL
Thanks to all for your input - here's the what worked out for me. Taking the idea of a sacrificial piece of plastic I went to the local supplier and found sheets of .020 styrene, which looked almost perfect, especially at about $12 per 4 x 8 foot sheet. I covered the face of the brass, with the protective plastic still on, with transfer tape, then sprayed the back of the tape with 3M Super 77 spray adhesive and stuck the styrene to that. While engraving, the centres all stayed in the letters and when I pulled off the styrene the masking tape came with it and the protective plastic stayed on the brass. The nose rode on the styrene and the chip extractor worked so depth problems and warped material were not an issue. Great ideas, thanks again!
Ian