Full Version: Silver Trays
From: basehorawards [#1]
21 Jul 2006
To: ALL
I have an order to engrave 20 silver trays (from Marco of all companies) but have a question of font size. Also about which font(s) do you like best for diamond drag.
The trays are 10" round with an engravable area 7.5" in diameter. I have four lines to put onto each tray.
1st Place (also will be doing 2nd and 3rd Place)
(Class) (10 - 18 characters including spaces)
Company (12 characters)
Name (8 characters)
I laid it out using the Xenetech software but it was too big so I have resized each line to .45 with a bit more space between Class and the first line of the company name. I chose Roman 3 Line font. Of course the customer has told me to use my best judgment so I am. I am asking the experts.
Any thoughts?
From: Funkmeister (FUNKY) [#2]
21 Jul 2006
To: basehorawards [#1] 21 Jul 2006
From: basehorawards [#3]
21 Jul 2006
To: Funkmeister (FUNKY) [#2] 21 Jul 2006
The Source has a similar tray to the ones I am using but they are at twice the cost.
Do you do many trays? This is my first order beyond customer's own birth memory plates.
From: Funkmeister (FUNKY) [#4]
21 Jul 2006
To: basehorawards [#3] 21 Jul 2006
From: basehorawards [#5]
21 Jul 2006
To: Funkmeister (FUNKY) [#4] 21 Jul 2006
For dash plates Rallye Productions is definitely good. You have to decide on cheap (I think they are a good deal)
When you do these trays how many lines do you engrave? What size font and what font do you use? The ones I am doing are for race car drivers so a similar recipient.
From: Funkmeister (FUNKY) [#6]
21 Jul 2006
To: basehorawards [#5] 21 Jul 2006
From: basehorawards [#7]
21 Jul 2006
To: Funkmeister (FUNKY) [#6] 21 Jul 2006
Brian Genrich is the owner of Rallye and is on the forum regularly.
Their number is 800-236-2036
his email is bgenrich at rallyeproductions dot com
From: Funkmeister (FUNKY) [#8]
21 Jul 2006
To: basehorawards [#7] 21 Jul 2006
From: logojohn [#9]
21 Jul 2006
To: basehorawards [#1] 21 Jul 2006
I use mostly truetype fonts hatch filled with Xenetech on trays.
If time or money is a problem,(if you can't charge what its worth) you could do just the name with it and regular engraving on the other lines.
If you angle the hatch fill to 45 degrees and leave a minute space between, it gives a unique textured look and hides the shiny join lines you sometimes get where there are starts and stops in the flow of the hatch fill.
We charge over 3 times as much for truetype hatch filled diamond dragged and most people still choose it.
http://www.trophiesinc.com/trays/
.
EDITED: 21 Jul 2006 by LOGOJOHN
From: basehorawards [#10]
21 Jul 2006
To: logojohn [#9] 22 Jul 2006
Those look great. In this case I am not getting what they are worth. This customer is a very good customer and he gets a volume discount that needs to be re-negotiated for next year to concider rotary engraving vs laser work.
What is the height of the letters on RT10 on your website? That looks like what I have in mind. I have been looking for a graphic to add and if I find one then I will be basically doing the same layout as that.
From: logojohn [#11]
22 Jul 2006
To: basehorawards [#10] 24 Jul 2006
It is just the Times Roman Bold with the hatch fill.
The engraving area is about 7.5" and the letters are about .35 inch tall.
I convert corel or other clipart into generic engraveable logos. We quit using simple single line outlines over a decade ago. They now have large hatch filled areas and if you alter the hatch to leave about .020 -.030 space between you can even mimic greyscale if their are adjoining areas that would blend together like the trojan below. Simple shapes are filled completely with hatch lines like the Bible.
Some clipart is a nightmare though, as every vector line will engrave. Many times they are hidden or layered behind something. You have to go through, right click to make them all visible and and make unwanted outlines go around the other objects. The front-minus back, back-minus front and similar tools make it easier. But some done in color have a gazillion shapes for each change in color shade.
Engraveable clipart examples.
Wedding
Trojan
Bible
Almost all of our customers still choose diamond drag engraving even on black brass plaques over lasered or sublimation. That is the only way we do any metal gift items. Since you can offer both you are ahead of the game.
.
From: Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC) [#12]
23 Jul 2006
To: basehorawards [#1] 24 Jul 2006
The problem with usingTrueType with a fill is that silverplate doesn't hold up well to over-engraving....the plating often cracks without a very light touch. More importantly, you want to avoid revealing the base metal....almost always a different color than the silver plating. When completed, you want the piece to have uniform color (...and look more expensive than silverplated trays really are.) Otherwise they look horsey, and definitely not like polished pewter or sterling.
Jim
From: Zelmon [#13]
23 Jul 2006
To: basehorawards 24 Jul 2006
Hi James
Would like to help out on this one, the job you explain is a very common one for me, anything from 10 to 50 per week. I will take the info to work on Monday, do a few layouts and e mail back to you, there is a time difference, so there could be a delay. My web site has info on layout and design, may help you
regards
Simon Cork
Sheffield UK
From: basehorawards [#14]
24 Jul 2006
To: Zelmon [#13] 24 Jul 2006
Simon,
Thanks for the information. Your website is very helpful.
I will watch for some samples.
Thanks again,
From: basehorawards [#15]
24 Jul 2006
To: logojohn [#11] 24 Jul 2006
Well at least I picked the right font. I was close on size too so maybe I am starting to get the hang of the rotary engraving. In another 20 years I might get pretty good at it. I am going to use the 3 line font for this one and practice with the true types on one of the extra trays.
I have run into that problem with clip art before with all the vector lines. You are right they can be a mess.
As for trophy plates most of my customers seem to prefer the lasered brass as being easier to read at all angles. I like both so I just go with what they want. Sublimation is not really an option for me other than for large orders as I use Rallye Productions for the metal and transfers.
Thanks again for the help,
From: basehorawards [#16]
24 Jul 2006
To: Doc (GREAT_ATLANTIC) [#12] 24 Jul 2006
Hmm, I will have to take the time to play with adding a second font. That does seem like it could be nice.
Thanks for the tip.
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#17]
25 Jul 2006
To: Zelmon [#13] 26 Jul 2006
I read the info on engraving trays, educational.
The only suggestion I would have is instead of engraving on air, use 3 layers of Scotch tape or a single layer of the clear vinyl transfer tape. Unscrew the drag pit and use a faint bit of finger pressure on the bit.
This will give clear lines exactly where the bit touches and not leave any mark on the product.
My wife came up with the transfer tape. It is tougher than the Scotch tape and also leaves a good line. It can also be bought in many widths, a major bonus.
From: Zelmon [#18]
26 Jul 2006
To: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#17] 26 Jul 2006
Yes that is a good idea Harvey, especially useful when engraving something like a gallery tray (you may not have these) silver trays with a rolled pattern and an oval clear patch in the centre. Getting it lined up can be tricky.
Another way, especially if the text is long, i.e. 5 or 6 minutes, is to save the layout, then delete the text, put a single letter in each corner of the top and bottom line, then set the machine running. You can see the four corners "engrave" and judge its position.
regards
Simon Cork
Sheffield Uk