Full Version: OEM on acrylic what is needed.
From: logojohn [#1]
26 Jul 2006
To: ALL
I got a Konica Minolta 2400w as nobody around here had the Okidata.
Looks like the first attempt has gone down in flames (or jumped the shark)
as it is due tomorrow so I will just have to laser it without color.
But for the next time I need to know exactly what all I need to do it right.
I can print the image great on two different brands of laser transfer paper we got awhile back.
Almost all printings even looked great on the acrylic after pressing but before removing the paper. One was almost passable even after the transfer was removed.
But after pressing and waiting to cool, Most of the time some of the print came of when removing the transfer. Sometimes it was a lot and sometimes hardly any but small specs all over it or it just looked bad.(Allowing for the absence of white after removing the paper) Quality and amount coming off varied some with several press time and temperature settings based on Harveys tip page.
I am still fussy about what is needed. I have some thin teflon sheets and tried it on the table under the item and a few times between the transfer and the heating element.
I saw a reference to a 1/8" rubber pad on the PSI site. Is that essential to the process. I assume it goes between the back side of the transfer and the heating element. It must be heat tolerant.
I also noted Harvery's suggest of exact temperature even though the PSI site lists something much higher. What type of thermometer will register high temperatures. Do you just touch it to the heating element and for how long to be accurate.
I haven't tried other substrates yet, but it seems sublimation is easier and more straight foward for metal.
Has anyone got the OEM to stick to glass or crystal as that would be a big market?
From: Dave Jones (DAVERJ) [#2]
26 Jul 2006
To: logojohn [#1] 26 Jul 2006
I came across a web page a while ago that compared the instructions given by different transfer paper makers. Unfortunately I didn't bookmark it. But I remember the proceedures being different for different brands. I don't know if that's simply because the different companies came up with different methods they liked, or if the papers are so different they require different processes.
I did notice on the PSI page of instructions that for thinner plastics (under 1/2") it mentioned cooling quickly, like with a cold plate. I don't know if you were doing thick or thin, and how much difference that step makes.
From: bruce (BBSD) [#3]
26 Jul 2006
To: logojohn [#1] 26 Jul 2006
I had a bad thick acrylic award that I sanded and buffed up. used alchohol to clean the polish residue.
I pressed at a moderate pressure with image on top of award - green pad on top (green pad is to evenly distribute the heat, I think).
50 seconds-let cool-rotate 90deg- repress. peel cool there may be a skin to peel off.
Award Glow works well to remove some of the unwanted dots.
From harvey's settings for glass, I dabbled and it worked great on a small scrap, but when doing a larger beveled and drilled piece, it cracked. be sure to preheat the glass slowly to temp.
couldn't make stick properly to FRB had to do it so lightly sanded to gov somelthing to adhere to.
Hope it helps
From: Stunt Engraver (DGL) [#4]
26 Jul 2006
To: logojohn [#1] 27 Jul 2006
John,
The purpose of the silicon pad, aside from promoting even heating of the substrate, is to ensure the transfer is in direct contact with the substrate.
Even though acrylic looks completely flat, there can be slight variances in the acrylic, or the platen of the heat press, for which the silicon pad can compensate.
That may be why you had mixed results with adhesion of the transfer.
I have very limited experience with OEM toner/Transfer paper on acrylic, through a few transfers Harvey sent to me.
Maybe beginners luck, but the piece I did, turned out very nice. I followed the instructions Harvey provided.
EDITED: 26 Jul 2006 by DGL
From: Mick [#5]
26 Jul 2006
To: logojohn [#1] 28 Jul 2006
I do acrylic all of the time. You will definately need the 1/8" green silicone pad. If you call we can discuss times and temps for your press. I have gotten some good results with glass, never tried crystal.
Mick Eminger
Cactus Equipment & Supplies
800-440-6847
www.cactus-equipment.com
From: Mike (MIKEN) [#6]
26 Jul 2006
To: logojohn [#5] 28 Jul 2006
For acrylic:
I would suggest that you use a foam pad between the heating element and the transfer paper, press at about 40 pounds and 280 degrees for about 40 seconds. Be sure to peel while it is warm.
You should be able to clean any residue with alcohol.
ps: My printer is a Panasonic 8415 which uses an oil fuser.
I believe the application for glass involves a decal printed by the laser and water transferred to the piece.
EDITED: 27 Jul 2006 by MIKEN
From: Harvey only (HARVEY-ONLY) [#7]
27 Jul 2006
To: logojohn [#1] 28 Jul 2006
I use a laser infra-red heat thermometer to check the press settings. The settings on my tutorial are made with a piece of masking tape over the platen in order to get a stable reading. [Since then I learned that if there is a blackened piece of paper sticking to the platen it reads about 18*F higher, do not ask.]
The silicon sheet is necessary to get good thermal transfer at ALL points. Your results are exactly what you will get with any surface aberration when not using a pad. If you still get it with the pad it is either too low a temperature or pressure. If it is huge areas of toner not sticking it is usually not quite enough heat.
If you start to get an impression of the pad on the acrylic, it is either too much temperature or pressure. Usually it is the excess pressure.
The best way to remove the paper is to lay the piece face down on metal. If it is 1/4" or under in thickness it will have curled. Press down the longer edges for about 10 seconds, curl gone and a lot of heat gone. Then let it stay that way for a few minutes and the transfer paper will start separating by itself from the contraction of the acrylic. After it cools, peel off the paper.